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Options for placing 5-piece Power-Bolts that do not have an extension sleeve?
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USnavy


Jan 9, 2010, 9:00 PM
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Options for placing 5-piece Power-Bolts that do not have an extension sleeve?
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Most commonly I place glue-in bolts, Triplex bolts or 4.75” x ½” Power-Bolts with 4 mm Fixe hangers. But recently I figured there was no reason to place such a long Power-Bolt in solid rock as our rock has a very high compression strength. So I bought a few of the 2.75” x ½” Power-Bolts for temporary use. I generally place a 13 mm hanger over the 4.75” Power-Bolt and call it a day. However the 2.75” variations do not have an extension sleeve and instead have the blue compression ring at the end of the bolt. I doubt it’s a good idea to continue to use 13 mm hangers with this smaller bolt as a 13 mm hanger would rest right over the blue plastic compression ring. A single fall would likely crush the sleeve instantly. So I could use 10 mm hangers and place the hanger only on the 3/8” machine bolt instead, but then the machine bolt only barely makes it into the cone. So I figure I have five options.

1. I could remove the blue compression ring and use a 10 mm hanger.
2. I could sand down the compression ring by 4 mm and use a 10 mm hanger.
3. I could grind down the expansion sleeve by 4 mm and use a 10 mm hanger.
4. I could use a 13 mm hanger and just place it over the crush sleeve.
5. The bolt still penetrates the cone enough with the 4 mm hanger and so I could just place a 10 mm hanger without modifying the bolt.

It seems options one and two seem to be the most common from what I have heard. What does everyone else do when placing power bolts that do not have an extension sleeve?




(This post was edited by USnavy on Jan 9, 2010, 9:04 PM)


adatesman


Jan 13, 2010, 4:38 PM
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oetkb


Jan 14, 2010, 6:15 PM
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Re: [adatesman] Options for placing 5-piece Power-Bolts that do not have an extension sleeve? [In reply to]
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I would have replied earlier, but I had to wait for my photos to get approved.

I think option 6, using the bolts as designed, is probably the simplest solution. Rawl designed the bolts to be used with hardware having attachment holes that are the bolts' diameters, including the the shorter bolts with the compression sleeve at the head.

In the photos are 3/8" by 2 1/4" bolts that were pulled in fall of 2009 from a route in AF Canyon. Both bolts were spinners; one was the crux bolt, one was the first bolt. I suspect that the bolts are the route's originals, making them more than fifteen years old.

Note that the sleeve is in relatively good condition (I think I remember that both sleeves were intact, but I couldn't find the second one).






oetkb


Jan 14, 2010, 6:24 PM
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Re: [oetkb] Options for placing 5-piece Power-Bolts that do not have an extension sleeve? [In reply to]
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I guess I should note the following, although I suspect that everyone who cares already knows this:

The "3/8" bolts pictured above are actually 5/16" bolts; 3/8" refers to the diameter of the bolt plus sleeve, and is the size of hole needed.


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