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Hexciter
Jan 9, 2010, 2:16 PM
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Check UIAA website.
http://www.theuiaa.org/certified_equipment.php
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USnavy
Jan 9, 2010, 2:24 PM
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It doesn’t matter, the UIAA stamp means nothing on cams. A cam only needs to hold 5 kN to be UIAA certified. There are other requirements to get the stamp but the main issue with CCH (quality control) is not tested under UIAA certification.
(This post was edited by USnavy on Jan 9, 2010, 4:31 PM)
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Hexciter
Jan 9, 2010, 2:34 PM
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For UIAA standarts
A cam needs to hold 5 kN to be certified as free climbing gear. Below that aid only product. (i.e. progressıon equipment)
http://www.theuiaa.org/upload_area/pictorial_files/UIAA125-Frictional-Anchors.jpg
2 kN valid for nuts and chocks only.
http://www.theuiaa.org/upload_area/pictorial_files/UIAA124-Chocks_1.jpg
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adatesman
Jan 9, 2010, 3:44 PM
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mheyman
Jan 9, 2010, 4:33 PM
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USnavy wrote: It doesn’t matter, the UIAA stamp means nothing on cams. A cam only needs to hold 2 kN to be UIAA certified as aid gear and 5 kN to be certified as free climbing gear. There are other requirements to get the stamp but the main issue with CCH (quality control) is not tested under UIAA certification.
Not true at all! It means the UIAA hasn't certified them, and in that regard CCH has slipped yet again on that not so slippery slope.
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USnavy
Jan 9, 2010, 4:39 PM
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adatesman wrote: USnavy wrote: It doesn’t matter, the UIAA stamp means nothing on cams. In your opinion, that is. USnavy wrote: A cam only needs to hold 2 kN to be UIAA certified as aid gear and 5 kN to be certified as free climbing gear. Incorrect. There is no separate certification for aid-only cams. They're all tested under UIAA125/EN12276. USnavy wrote: There are other requirements to get the stamp but the main issue with CCH (quality control) is not tested under UIAA certification. This one I agree with you on.
(This post was edited by USnavy on Jan 9, 2010, 4:44 PM)
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mheyman
Jan 10, 2010, 4:21 AM
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USnavy wrote: If every piece of gear only held 5 kN, trad climbing would be a whole lot more "interesting", if you will...
Exactly. So If CCH can't or won't even even get them certified for this well accepted test then WTF!
Just like this, the whole problem with CCH is that they neglect many standard things that reliable manufacturers do.
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asaxton
Jan 10, 2010, 4:43 AM
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Looking at the thread
http://www.rockclimbing.com/..._string=cch;#1132135
it seems like CCH just had a tragedy and are having a hard time making up for their loss.
Could the UIAA approval be like their website domain renewal? They need to get the paperwork pushed through, but have a noob trying to figure it all out?
After all, their website
http://www.aliencamsbycch.net/testing.html
has reasonably well documented tests of their cams.......
Any thoughts?
(This post was edited by asaxton on Jan 10, 2010, 4:51 AM)
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adatesman
Jan 10, 2010, 5:43 AM
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adatesman
Jan 10, 2010, 5:46 AM
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Hexciter
Jan 10, 2010, 10:06 AM
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Not that long.
My previous check was in October 2009. Aliens were certified on that time.
All you true in regarding the main problem of CCH is QC.
By being not certified by UIAA means Alien's strength ratings are not certified by independent labs. That means you have to trust CCH or make your own strength test.
From my point, I don't believe CCH and I can't test them.
Overall, at least for me Aliens are aid only products.
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mheyman
Jan 10, 2010, 12:08 PM
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adatesman wrote: It may surprise some to hear me say it, but CCH not having UIAA certification isn't necessarily a problem...But long story short, their problem isn't with the design but the execution, which is something that the certification tests wouldn't catch since the sample size is so small.
Aric, I understand and agree. Still for a company in their position it's not a change that will bolster their reputation.
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Adk
Jan 10, 2010, 2:04 PM
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Hexciter wrote: Not that long. That means you have to trust CCH or make your own strength test.
Buying them to test and at what sample size can end up to be a lot of expense. Testing in both cases might be fun though.
We as Americans trust companies with our lives all the time to make the right thing, to hold up to what they claim. Independant certifications mean a lot to me.
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adatesman
Jan 10, 2010, 3:32 PM
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curt
Jan 10, 2010, 7:47 PM
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Hexciter wrote: ...the main problem of CCH is QC. By being not certified by UIAA means Alien's strength ratings are not certified by independent labs. That means you have to trust CCH or make your own strength test...
Unfortunately, that was true even when the certification was valid.
Curt
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Hexciter
Apr 27, 2010, 1:24 PM
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But CCH on Sale
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1132391/Colorado-Custom-Hardware-Alien-Cams-for-Sale
It seems to be a sales act.
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