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Shoes for aid climbing?
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climbingaz


Jan 4, 2010, 12:20 PM
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Shoes for aid climbing?
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What do you crazy aid climbers do when your leading a pitch that requires some free climbing? Will you just lead the pitch in your rock shoes? Or carry up your rock shoes on your harness to put them on later during the pitch?


lvpyne


Jan 4, 2010, 12:37 PM
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Re: [climbingaz] Shoes for aid climbing? [In reply to]
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I like to aid lead in my mythos (even for really long pitches) because they fit sort of like slippers and are comfy -- ultimately, I like being able to step out my aiders and free a move or two if that'll speed things along. Also, the approach shoes from La Sportiva (can't remember the exact name...) are pretty good for the same thing.

Are you starting Scott aid climbing this early? Smile


shimanilami


Jan 4, 2010, 12:41 PM
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Re: [climbingaz] Shoes for aid climbing? [In reply to]
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It really depends on the pitch in question. If there are a couple of <5.10 moves, then I can simply climb those in my aid shoes (Camp 4's currently). If the pitch starts with an appreciable amount of free climbing, then I'll leave the belay in climbing shoes and haul up my aid shoes (and rack) when the going gets tough. If there are a bunch of free moves at the end of a pitch, then I'll carry my climbing shoes and put them on when I need to, and leave the aid shoes (and rack) behind. (Slabby top-outs come to mind.)

One of the challenges with switching between aid and free climbing is that it's not just the shoes, it's the aiders, daisies, and massive rack required for aid. If there is a significant amount of difficult free climbing, all that crap weighs you down and gets in your way. Simply switching shoes doesn't always get it done.


climbingaz


Jan 4, 2010, 12:44 PM
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Re: [shimanilami] Shoes for aid climbing? [In reply to]
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shimanilami wrote:
It really depends on the pitch in question. If there are a couple of <5.10 moves, then I can simply climb those in my aid shoes (Camp 4's currently). If the pitch starts with an appreciable amount of free climbing, then I'll leave the belay in climbing shoes and haul up my aid shoes (and rack) when the going gets tough. If there are a bunch of free moves at the end of a pitch, then I'll carry my climbing shoes and put them on when I need to, and leave the aid shoes (and rack) behind. (Slabby top-outs come to mind.)

One of the challenges with switching between aid and free climbing is that it's not just the shoes, it's the aiders, daisies, and massive rack required for aid. If there is a significant amount of difficult free climbing, all that crap weighs you down and gets in your way. Simply switching shoes doesn't always get it done.


Great info! Thanks!


climbingaz


Jan 4, 2010, 12:47 PM
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Re: [lvpyne] Shoes for aid climbing? [In reply to]
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lvpyne wrote:
I like to aid lead in my mythos (even for really long pitches) because they fit sort of like slippers and are comfy -- ultimately, I like being able to step out my aiders and free a move or two if that'll speed things along. Also, the approach shoes from La Sportiva (can't remember the exact name...) are pretty good for the same thing.

Are you starting Scott aid climbing this early? Smile

I'm actually trying to get OLD Scott back INTO it. When he started climbing, aiding was ALL he did, but that was back before cams were even invented. I wanna try the South Face of Washington Column next year (2011). Regarding the shoes, maybe I'll just start aiding in my Boreal Ace's and see how that works out. I'm totally new to this so will have a ton more questions to follow.


shimanilami


Jan 4, 2010, 12:56 PM
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Re: [climbingaz] Shoes for aid climbing? [In reply to]
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Another issue is how difficult the aid is. If you have to stand in aiders for 4 hours while you hammer pins and mash heads, you'll want something with a stiff sole to stand in.

If, on the other hand, you're essentially french-freeing and not standing in aiders so much, then having a pair of nimble rock shoes on your feet can make things go much faster.


lvpyne


Jan 4, 2010, 12:56 PM
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Re: [climbingaz] Shoes for aid climbing? [In reply to]
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Wahoo!!! You guys will have a GREAT time!

I found that until you start to get a rhythm for aiding, everything will just feel awkward. You might try starting out in some shoes that you "know" (i.e. your Aces?) and then if you decide that they're unbearable, maybe switch out to something else?

If you're looking for any suggestions for good "starter aid" routes, my first "aid" route was an hour ascent of "Chutes and Ladders" at Pinnacle Peak. Also, Sullie's would be a good option this time of year. You can set up the route and then aid the route on TR if you want to get the hang of what aiding feels like or the routes are so short, that you can just aid up 'em. When the snow melts, Paradise Forks (Davidson Wall) is great for practicing leading, hauling, and jugging. Also, the "sport rappelers" rock at Camelback is great for overhung jugging.

Enjoy!


climbingaz


Jan 7, 2010, 9:37 AM
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Re: [lvpyne] Shoes for aid climbing? [In reply to]
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lvpyne wrote:
Wahoo!!! You guys will have a GREAT time!

I found that until you start to get a rhythm for aiding, everything will just feel awkward. You might try starting out in some shoes that you "know" (i.e. your Aces?) and then if you decide that they're unbearable, maybe switch out to something else?

If you're looking for any suggestions for good "starter aid" routes, my first "aid" route was an hour ascent of "Chutes and Ladders" at Pinnacle Peak. Also, Sullie's would be a good option this time of year. You can set up the route and then aid the route on TR if you want to get the hang of what aiding feels like or the routes are so short, that you can just aid up 'em. When the snow melts, Paradise Forks (Davidson Wall) is great for practicing leading, hauling, and jugging. Also, the "sport rappelers" rock at Camelback is great for overhung jugging.

Enjoy!

Thanks for the great suggestions Lydia! I'm getting excited about aiding (I know, we're nuts)! Already looking for ascenders, etriers, etc. By the way, I don't think we're gonna make it out to Homestead....I've been fighting a cold the last few days and don't seem to be getting better.Unsure


lvpyne


Jan 7, 2010, 3:37 PM
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Re: [climbingaz] Shoes for aid climbing? [In reply to]
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climbingaz wrote:
lvpyne wrote:
Wahoo!!! You guys will have a GREAT time!

I found that until you start to get a rhythm for aiding, everything will just feel awkward. You might try starting out in some shoes that you "know" (i.e. your Aces?) and then if you decide that they're unbearable, maybe switch out to something else?

If you're looking for any suggestions for good "starter aid" routes, my first "aid" route was an hour ascent of "Chutes and Ladders" at Pinnacle Peak. Also, Sullie's would be a good option this time of year. You can set up the route and then aid the route on TR if you want to get the hang of what aiding feels like or the routes are so short, that you can just aid up 'em. When the snow melts, Paradise Forks (Davidson Wall) is great for practicing leading, hauling, and jugging. Also, the "sport rappelers" rock at Camelback is great for overhung jugging.

Enjoy!

Thanks for the great suggestions Lydia! I'm getting excited about aiding (I know, we're nuts)! Already looking for ascenders, etriers, etc. By the way, I don't think we're gonna make it out to Homestead....I've been fighting a cold the last few days and don't seem to be getting better.Unsure

Ah, bummer to miss you guys. Feel better soon!


coastal_climber


Jan 11, 2010, 12:06 PM
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Re: [lvpyne] Shoes for aid climbing? [In reply to]
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http://www.evolvesports.com/quest-af.htm

Done first 2 pitches of gold wall in these guys, as well as other thrashing in/around squamish.

They held up amazingly well.

Warning: They stretch about 1/2 size

Edit to add:

General aiding is done in 5.10 guides or La sportiva B5's. The La sportivas are waaaay stiffer which is best. But the 5.10's lasted longer...


(This post was edited by coastal_climber on Jan 11, 2010, 12:10 PM)


kennoyce


Jan 11, 2010, 12:42 PM
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Re: [climbingaz] Shoes for aid climbing? [In reply to]
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I think you need to use these:



Sized 4 full sizes below your street shoe size. It will add so much to the aid climbing experience.


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