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edge
Jan 11, 2010, 11:16 PM
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I guess that depends on alot of variables that the photos don't show.
For individual, body weight placements, I see no problem. String 10 or so of those together, and then we are talking!
Not enough info here to make a determination.
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malcolm777b
Jan 12, 2010, 12:04 AM
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acorneau wrote: I'm not an aid climber, but some of the "protection" on this climb looks friggin' scary:
What is shown is not "protection" per se. Those are body weight only placements for forward progress. I'm no A5 climber, but what is shown in those pictures appears to be quite reasonable. Equalized RURPs, peckers, and good bashie placements look much less scary than, say nested pins, nuts wedged against pins, or hooking on sloping edges.
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shimanilami
Jan 12, 2010, 12:07 AM
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RURPs, Peckers, and Tomahawks galore! That is some spicy shit, yo'!
I don't get too scared if I'm strung out on a handful of those pieces, but when the placements are so sparse that you need to use that small stuff to build your anchors ... that's scary.
That's about the point when I yell down, "Send up the bolt kit!!!"
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edge
Jan 12, 2010, 12:12 AM
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shimanilami wrote: RURPs, Peckers, and Tomahawks galore! T when the placements are so sparse that you need to use that small stuff to build your anchors ... that's scary. That's about the point when I yell down, "Send up the bolt kit!!!"
All rurp belay. Powerpoint advocates can suck it..
(This post was edited by edge on Jan 12, 2010, 12:18 AM)
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johnwesely
Jan 12, 2010, 12:46 AM
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edge wrote: shimanilami wrote: RURPs, Peckers, and Tomahawks galore! T when the placements are so sparse that you need to use that small stuff to build your anchors ... that's scary. That's about the point when I yell down, "Send up the bolt kit!!!" All rurp belay. Powerpoint advocates can suck it.. [image]http://img683.imageshack.us/img683/4908/birdrurp.jpg[/image]
But, but, but...
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dugl33
Jan 12, 2010, 1:25 AM
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The scary thing (well, top on the scary list) is I'm pretty sure one of those pics is their belay. The one with the three tied off pieces.
Once the belay is crap, that's A5+
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boymeetsrock
Jan 12, 2010, 3:05 PM
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edge wrote: shimanilami wrote: RURPs, Peckers, and Tomahawks galore! T when the placements are so sparse that you need to use that small stuff to build your anchors ... that's scary. That's about the point when I yell down, "Send up the bolt kit!!!" All rurp belay. Powerpoint advocates can suck it.. [image]http://img683.imageshack.us/img683/4908/birdrurp.jpg[/image]
Isn't there a bolt in that belay out of picture. If thought Bridwell was good with it but the other guy (forget who) made Bridwell put in a bolt before he would jug it. NO?
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thechef
Apr 1, 2010, 2:49 AM
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A3
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marc801
Apr 1, 2010, 4:08 AM
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Have you ever considered what the "pro" would look like on a pitch with 60' of hooking? Don't confuse protection with A5 placements.
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