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boymeetsrock


Oct 14, 2009, 12:06 PM
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kachoong wrote:
Cool TR! What a bugger to have the creek right below! I hate getting ropes wet!

This makes me wanna post up my w'end TR in here...

Dew eet!


Gmburns2000


Oct 14, 2009, 12:06 PM
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kachoong wrote:
Cool TR! What a bugger to have the creek right below! I hate getting ropes wet!

this always reminds me of Dark Shadows in Red Rocks. Pretty much a guarantee to get your ropes wet there.

In reply to:
This makes me wanna post up my w'end TR in here...

Do it! Doooo ittttttt!


Gmburns2000


Oct 14, 2009, 12:07 PM
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boymeetsrock wrote:
kachoong wrote:
Cool TR! What a bugger to have the creek right below! I hate getting ropes wet!

This makes me wanna post up my w'end TR in here...

Dew eet!

D'oh! beat me to it and used better letters, too.


boymeetsrock


Oct 14, 2009, 12:10 PM
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Re: [donald949] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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Nice TR! That first pic of the crag with the two cars in the foreground makes the cliff look much smaller than it is.

Looks like a nice place to climb tough. Some good rock there.


kachoong


Oct 14, 2009, 12:10 PM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
boymeetsrock wrote:
kachoong wrote:
Cool TR! What a bugger to have the creek right below! I hate getting ropes wet!

This makes me wanna post up my w'end TR in here...

Dew eet!

D'oh! beat me to it and used better letters, too.

All right.... here goes.


boymeetsrock


Oct 14, 2009, 12:11 PM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
boymeetsrock wrote:
kachoong wrote:
Cool TR! What a bugger to have the creek right below! I hate getting ropes wet!

This makes me wanna post up my w'end TR in here...

Dew eet!

D'oh! beat me to it and used better letters, too.


Cool


kachoong


Oct 14, 2009, 12:22 PM
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So, the opportunity presented itself this past weekend and we headed to E-Rock in the hope of getting on a few routes. A larger group was planned, with friends from College Station, as well as my wife and her colleague (a pure beginner). With the rain that ensued however, the larger contingent bailed, leaving just me, my wife and her friend.

Despite a down-sized group and the threat of rain, we had a great time! Actually our small party was perfect and although the rain delayed climbing until Saturday, we still managed a few climbs on the Backside throughout the (what ended up being) glorious day. It was in essence an introduction for our friend to the joys of climbing, so grades weren't a focus... just enjoyment.



Clouds hung around until midday, giving us a cool seige on the New Wall... we were the first to arrive and set up on Sweat (5.6). I lead it, so the girls could TR No Sweat (5.5) and and then Sweat. For both my wife and I it had been just over six months since we touched rock and so it was nice to get on some easy terrain. It was also our first visit to the backside (except for Deep Prok, which I had climbed two years ago). I tell ya though, Sweat is certainly sustained 5.6 (if you can say that about a 5.6...heh!).


The wifey showing off her noo harness on No Sweat

After attacking Sweat, I thought I'd try the bolted line to the right (Pro Sweat 5.9), since it looked possible for me. It was wet at the bottom but I figured I needed a confidence boost, as I hadn't climbed a 5.9 since May 08. Besides, it has bolts! It was slick down low and it took me a bit to get that first bolt clipped, but once I was on the face and chalked up my toes I felt solid the whole way. Beautiful climb!


Our pure beginner friend, showing us a spontaneously-inspired new technique... the shin-jam!

The hords had turned up by this time, so we decided to escape the noise and head to Devil's Slide... and introduce our friend to some slab technique. We hopped on the furthest line on the right, which I guess was the first pitch of Mark Of The Beast; a 5.6 (also known as Christine's Variation??). My plan was to lead up to the anchors, then have the girls come up one at a time, for me to then lower them back to the ground. That way, I could most effectively give them a TR (since it's so long) and possibly snap a couple of pics while having them on an autoblock. The plan worked great and our friend padded her way up the whole pitch in her own full-speed-ahead-so-I-don't-freak-out time.


Me on Pro Sweat (5.9)



Here, my wife floats up the 5.6 slab.




By then the sun was out in full force, casting shadows across the slabs, and the afternoon was absolutely beautiful!

It was around then that somebody appeared from the trail to the base of the wall and declared that he may know who we were.... because of my accent! Hahahaa! It was none other than Justroberto!

The girls were done for the day, but I still had a climb in me, so Rob and I teamed up to try the first pitch of the new bolted route Kracken (5.8+). It was a great pitch and well worth the effort. It took me a short moment or two to get the right sequence over the overlap, but I figured it out (dunno if it's the right way, but it worked). A couple other 5.8 slab sections above that got me to the belay, where I brought up Rob. Overall, a great climb and certainly a 5.8!


Me getting from the first bolt to the overlap.


Rob checking out options.


Mounting the overlap.


The 5.8 slab above.

A fun day, with great weather, was had by all.

Sunday came but blew in a drizzle and that ended any plans we thought we might have had, but we were happy with the climbing we did... around 400ft for the girls and about 700ft for me. I also got my head back on lead and am already promising myself greater things for the coming year.... we'll see how that turns out! Heh!!


Gmburns2000


Oct 14, 2009, 12:43 PM
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Dude, nice job. 8+ and 9 after six months off would be tough for me to lead, even with bolts. Nice pics, too.

And I don't know why folks knock parties of three. Yeah, they aren't that efficient, but they're not that bad either. I find them to be quite fun sometimes (in fact, I can't remember a time when I didn't have fun climbing in three where any problem that may have arisen was attributed to three people instead of two).


kachoong


Oct 14, 2009, 1:10 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
Dude, nice job. 8+ and 9 after six months off would be tough for me to lead, even with bolts. Nice pics, too.

And I don't know why folks knock parties of three. Yeah, they aren't that efficient, but they're not that bad either. I find them to be quite fun sometimes (in fact, I can't remember a time when I didn't have fun climbing in three where any problem that may have arisen was attributed to three people instead of two).

Thanks, I was happy to know my head was still in it. I've found over the years that the only thing to really significantly depreciate with time is power and endurance. My head is still in the game and the technique "bag of tricks" is always around.

For sure, climbing in three has it's benefits too. This weekend we only did single pitch, so no problems really arose. We managed to get more pics too (than with two), which was good.


boymeetsrock


Oct 14, 2009, 1:35 PM
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Nice photos and well written!

I like the alternating photo sequence of you and Rob on the 8+.

Sounds like you all had a good time, and gave a friend a nice intro to climbing.

Cheers!


donald949


Oct 14, 2009, 1:43 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
donald949 wrote:



Me at the top of Ending Crack

Sweet, dude. Sounds like a fun weekend with you getting on both routes you wanted to get on. The place looks as if it has good climbing. Some nice topo pics there.

Gotta hit the sunscreen sooner, though. Laugh

Sunscreen, whats that.
Hey, and this was only the first day.
Yes, I'm stoked to have made it after a number of false starts, and aborted plans. So its all good. I thought I'd get more pitches in though. But really we got some good climbing in, and were plenty sore to show for it. A good kind of sore.
I think the area could yield more routes, but is kind of out of the main climbing circles of town. And it is a long standing trad area. All the main routes were well established over 20 years ago. Also, much of the new routes would need some bolts to make them reasonably protected. The only bolts are at the belay/rap stations, and those were added. The main verticle cracks are all gear placements. The rest of the rock is featured but not great pro wise. It would be interesting to scope it out more closely though.


donald949


Oct 14, 2009, 1:50 PM
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boymeetsrock wrote:
Nice TR! That first pic of the crag with the two cars in the foreground makes the cliff look much smaller than it is.

Looks like a nice place to climb tough. Some good rock there.

Yea funny that about the pics. There are a couple topos here on the knob, and the second pitch looks short way short. But on the Tree Root, a 50m rope will not reach, and a 60m is just long enough. Also, people will stand at the base and say that the P1 anchor is 100' or less. Its not. I yarded off my 50m rope and its 130-140 feet.


kachoong


Oct 14, 2009, 1:53 PM
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boymeetsrock wrote:
Nice photos and well written!

I like the alternating photo sequence of you and Rob on the 8+.

Sounds like you all had a good time, and gave a friend a nice intro to climbing.

Cheers!

Thanks! I thought it would be cool to mix up the pics like that. Our friend took the pics of me, as my wife belayed me, but once I had Rob on belay from above, my wife took over the camera and snapped some of Rob.

She had a blast and was happily introduced to the sport. If we take her again, we'd like to take her to some steeper limestone where there are bigger holds... a whole different form of climbing.

IMO granite is the best rock type to learn on... gives you good habits and techniques.


kachoong


Oct 14, 2009, 1:55 PM
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donald949 wrote:
boymeetsrock wrote:
Nice TR! That first pic of the crag with the two cars in the foreground makes the cliff look much smaller than it is.

Looks like a nice place to climb tough. Some good rock there.

Yea funny that about the pics. There are a couple topos here on the knob, and the second pitch looks short way short. But on the Tree Root, a 50m rope will not reach, and a 60m is just long enough. Also, people will stand at the base and say that the P1 anchor is 100' or less. Its not. I yarded off my 50m rope and its 130-140 feet.

There's certainly some foreshortening happening there! Hah! Looks like a great place to climb though.

Perhaps in your future scoping for new lines, you can lower each other from a belay out over a face and climb back up with a top rope. Make sure to take some prussiks in case you need to bypass a blank section.


donald949


Oct 14, 2009, 2:23 PM
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kachoong wrote:
So, the opportunity presented itself this past weekend and we headed to E-Rock in the hope of getting on a few routes. A larger group was planned, with friends from College Station, as well as my wife and her colleague (a pure beginner). With the rain that ensued however, the larger contingent bailed, leaving just me, my wife and her friend.

Despite a down-sized group and the threat of rain, we had a great time! Actually our small party was perfect and although the rain delayed climbing until Saturday, we still managed a few climbs on the Backside throughout the (what ended up being) glorious day. It was in essence an introduction for our friend to the joys of climbing, so grades weren't a focus... just enjoyment.

[img]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2558/4002666865_94b7fde9b3.jpg[/img]

Clouds hung around until midday, giving us a cool seige on the New Wall... we were the first to arrive and set up on Sweat (5.6). I lead it, so the girls could TR No Sweat (5.5) and and then Sweat. For both my wife and I it had been just over six months since we touched rock and so it was nice to get on some easy terrain. It was also our first visit to the backside (except for Deep Prok, which I had climbed two years ago). I tell ya though, Sweat is certainly sustained 5.6 (if you can say that about a 5.6...heh!).

[img]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2657/4004039159_a18ee4806b.jpg[/img]
The wifey showing off her noo harness on No Sweat

After attacking Sweat, I thought I'd try the bolted line to the right (Pro Sweat 5.9), since it looked possible for me. It was wet at the bottom but I figured I needed a confidence boost, as I hadn't climbed a 5.9 since May 08. Besides, it has bolts! It was slick down low and it took me a bit to get that first bolt clipped, but once I was on the face and chalked up my toes I felt solid the whole way. Beautiful climb!

[img]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2421/4004802666_83b15bd3ea.jpg[/img]
Our pure beginner friend, showing us a spontaneously-inspired new technique... the shin-jam!

The hords had turned up by this time, so we decided to escape the noise and head to Devil's Slide... and introduce our friend to some slab technique. We hopped on the furthest line on the right, which I guess was the first pitch of Mark Of The Beast; a 5.6 (also known as Christine's Variation??). My plan was to lead up to the anchors, then have the girls come up one at a time, for me to then lower them back to the ground. That way, I could most effectively give them a TR (since it's so long) and possibly snap a couple of pics while having them on an autoblock. The plan worked great and our friend padded her way up the whole pitch in her own full-speed-ahead-so-I-don't-freak-out time.

[img]http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3524/4004802530_301de49a00.jpg[/img]
Me on Pro Sweat (5.9)

[img]http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3472/4003430038_173ae97fcd.jpg[/img]
[image]http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3286/4006987800_32aa12af41.jpg[/image]
Here, my wife floats up the 5.6 slab.

[img]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2465/4003430262_a1db5e9a3e.jpg[/img]


By then the sun was out in full force, casting shadows across the slabs, and the afternoon was absolutely beautiful!

It was around then that somebody appeared from the trail to the base of the wall and declared that he may know who we were.... because of my accent! Hahahaa! It was none other than Justroberto!

The girls were done for the day, but I still had a climb in me, so Rob and I teamed up to try the first pitch of the new bolted route Kracken (5.8+). It was a great pitch and well worth the effort. It took me a short moment or two to get the right sequence over the overlap, but I figured it out (dunno if it's the right way, but it worked). A couple other 5.8 slab sections above that got me to the belay, where I brought up Rob. Overall, a great climb and certainly a 5.8!

[img]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2668/4002667103_af2e0ceaf1.jpg[/img]
Me getting from the first bolt to the overlap.

[img]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2533/4002667519_42e7af41ff.jpg[/img]
Rob checking out options.

[img]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2644/4003430662_b9fd48b639.jpg[/img]
Mounting the overlap.

[img]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2583/4002667741_4119584ddc.jpg[/img]
The 5.8 slab above.

A fun day, with great weather, was had by all.

Sunday came but blew in a drizzle and that ended any plans we thought we might have had, but we were happy with the climbing we did... around 400ft for the girls and about 700ft for me. I also got my head back on lead and am already promising myself greater things for the coming year.... we'll see how that turns out! Heh!!
Nice, crazy overlap eh?
Cool pics of the area and the climbing.
Don


Gmburns2000


Oct 14, 2009, 6:20 PM
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donald949 wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
donald949 wrote:

[image]http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3495/4009648671_d4505d0f49_b.jpg[/image]

Me at the top of Ending Crack

Sweet, dude. Sounds like a fun weekend with you getting on both routes you wanted to get on. The place looks as if it has good climbing. Some nice topo pics there.

Gotta hit the sunscreen sooner, though. Laugh

Sunscreen, whats that.
Hey, and this was only the first day.
Yes, I'm stoked to have made it after a number of false starts, and aborted plans. So its all good. I thought I'd get more pitches in though. But really we got some good climbing in, and were plenty sore to show for it. A good kind of sore.
I think the area could yield more routes, but is kind of out of the main climbing circles of town. And it is a long standing trad area. All the main routes were well established over 20 years ago. Also, much of the new routes would need some bolts to make them reasonably protected. The only bolts are at the belay/rap stations, and those were added. The main verticle cracks are all gear placements. The rest of the rock is featured but not great pro wise. It would be interesting to scope it out more closely though.

I wonder if any of these other routes you speak of have actually been done (bold?).


donald949


Jan 18, 2010, 5:07 PM
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Weekend warrior (occasional) strikes again.

New Jack City, for the first time.
Quick write up for quick trip.

Well a buddy sent me an email last Tuesday, inviting me out to NJC. NJC is a sport climbing destination, and there's a lot of hard routes, 10 and up. I don't climb that hard, but there are some routes there in my level of ability.
Then he sends me a message on FB, NJC is a no go. He's got a prior fishing commitment, and the leader of the Indian climbing gang is out of town. OK
So I call my other climbing partner, nope Saturday is his son's BDay.
Then I get another FB message, NJC is on. OK, lets hit it.
So we take his Smart car, since its a 2 hour drive. Actually roomy inside, for two. NJC is not as far as I thought, bonus. Hit the rock and its cold, but realitively crowded. Especially at Boy Scout Rock. Home of nearly everything 5.8 and lower.
My bud walks up to a climb. Lead this one to the anchors and we'll TR the other two under it. I look at it, a little steep at the bottom. I move to the left one. Looks doable rack some draws and tie in.
I step up the opening moves, steep but not a problem, try to reach the first bolt. Too low. Next move a little less secure, but OK. Clip and go. Move up and to the left. Sort through the moves, but my hands a getting cold. Fingers are hurting bad, cold stinging numbing pain. Was 45 when we pulled in, and I'm a bit under dressed for the weather.
Lower off to warm up. Bud wants to give it a go, as he's done it before, just not on lead. OK, I had my try, and froze off. He climbs past my bolt and to the left, same as me. Then I see it, the moves are right there. Soon as I see them, so does he, and pulls on through. He has his issues with the cold rock too, but gets it done. Sets up the anchor, and lowers off.
My hands are warm by now, I pull the opening, work up the rock, clean the draws, nothing major. Take a quick rest on a couple stances, but other wise move on up no falls and lower off.
Left Flank, 5.10a. Nah. Not that hard. Hand holds were all good. Footholds all solid, more like a good 5.9.
We swing to the rope to the right just a little. Make a Way, 5.10a. That's more like a 10. I don't I really do the route, fell a couple times, Make my own Way you would say. I stemmed the chimney to the right further up than the route really goes. Then moved to the left, really onto the middle route.
My bud gives it another go, rather than the middle, breaks down the anchor, raps off.
Now the group to our right really is all over the 5.8's, but I think the 5.6 past them is open. Anyrate, he wants to do Raven Rocks, and a 5.9, Rob Rambunctious Ride. And finally some good sun. I rack up and tie in. First two bolts no problem. But thats it. Next move is an angled foothold with a sloper hand hold two feet to the left and up a little from the bolt. Hmm. What to do. Look around to the right, nope. Back at the left. Tired, lower off. Bud ties in, climbs past the bolts. Gives the move an assesment, and an honest go. Better than me. Falls and swings. He lowers off, forearms too tired. I rope in, climb to the top bolt, and unclip it, down climb, unclip the first bolt, down climb. Call it a day.


boymeetsrock


Jan 19, 2010, 6:10 AM
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Nice Don!! Sounds like a good day!

I've been psyched lately to hit the climbing gym. A new gym just opened in town and the floor is really squishy ! Tongue

I'm itching for Spring! Thanks for sharing, and adding to the winter stoke!!

-W


Gmburns2000


Jan 19, 2010, 7:19 AM
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Glad you finally got out. Been too long.

Don't know how you could handle the cold like that. I'd be in too much pain.


donald949


Jan 19, 2010, 7:26 AM
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
Glad you finally got out. Been too long.

Don't know how you could handle the cold like that. I'd be in too much pain.
Actually, I got out two weeks ago to Big Rock, my closest crag. I was a bit tired and didn't do much climbing, although I did do the lead to set up the TR and the last climb to break down the anchor. I also belayed my boys a bunch. Althouygh that was the first time since first of Oct.
NJC was cold, and I only had a light sweat shirt and nylon shell pants, it was supposed to be warmer. Haha. But the only thing that bothered me was my fingers. But by the time my bud finished the lead they stopped hurting. A good day though.
Thanks for the feedback guys.


kachoong


Jan 19, 2010, 7:32 AM
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Sounds like you've found a place to push some limits, Don. Good jorb! Great to hear of people getting out on rock while most of the country is icing it up.

I should be getting out in Feb... finally... since Oct.


donald949


Jan 19, 2010, 9:41 AM
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kachoong wrote:
Sounds like you've found a place to push some limits, Don. Good jorb! Great to hear of people getting out on rock while most of the country is icing it up.

I should be getting out in Feb... finally... since Oct.

Stand by, more ice/snow/rain coming your way.


tradrenn


Jan 19, 2010, 7:24 PM
Post #198 of 1159 (5625 views)
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Registered: Jan 15, 2005
Posts: 2990

Re: [epoch] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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epoch wrote:
I will not read your blog.

me too.


boymeetsrock


Jan 20, 2010, 5:45 AM
Post #199 of 1159 (5612 views)
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Registered: Feb 11, 2005
Posts: 1709

Re: [tradrenn] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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tradrenn wrote:
epoch wrote:
I will not read your blog.

me too.


You responded to an eight month old post just to be a dick?


Nice. Unsure


tradrenn


Jan 20, 2010, 5:05 PM
Post #200 of 1159 (5576 views)
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Registered: Jan 15, 2005
Posts: 2990

Re: [boymeetsrock] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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boymeetsrock wrote:
tradrenn wrote:
epoch wrote:
I will not read your blog.

me too.


You responded to an eight month old post just to be a dick?


Nice. Unsure

Oops, I did it again.


(This post was edited by tradrenn on Jan 20, 2010, 5:06 PM)

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