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Extendable Trad Draw knotting up?
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ssmall123


Jan 21, 2010, 9:33 AM
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Extendable Trad Draw knotting up?
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Anyone have a trick to keep the sling from knotting up in a jumbled girth hitch type thing when extending a trad draw. Unimpressed


rockforlife


Jan 21, 2010, 9:35 AM
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Re: [ssmall123] Extendable Trad Draw knotting up? [In reply to]
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ssmall123 wrote:
Anyone have a trick to keep the sling from knotting up in a jumbled girth hitch type thing when extending a trad draw. Unimpressed

Don't be a noobWink


bandycoot


Jan 21, 2010, 9:37 AM
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Re: [ssmall123] Extendable Trad Draw knotting up? [In reply to]
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Triple it up with as few twists as possible. It should be "clean." That said, even if you've done it a thousand times, it will still occasionally get all funked up. There's not much you can do about it. Sometimes it's the bar tack that creates the problem, and sometimes it just doesn't want to cooperate.


Gmburns2000


Jan 21, 2010, 9:46 AM
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Re: [bandycoot] Extendable Trad Draw knotting up? [In reply to]
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bandycoot wrote:
Triple it up with as few twists as possible. It should be "clean." That said, even if you've done it a thousand times, it will still occasionally get all funked up. There's not much you can do about it. Sometimes it's the bar tack that creates the problem, and sometimes it just doesn't want to cooperate.

+1

I find that when this happens to me it is because the draw wasn't cleaned nicely, usually with the second pumped out with only one hand available and a "fuck it, I'm gonna deal with this at the anchor" attitude. Of course, fixing it rarely happens, if ever.

So yeah, make sure you triple it nicely and you shouldn't have problems. I often try to make sure the bar tack is set on the side where I'm likely to pull out when I'm extending it. I try to do that when I triple the sling. I also find having the bar tack on the outer loops helps, too.


hafilax


Jan 21, 2010, 9:58 AM
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Re: [ssmall123] Extendable Trad Draw knotting up? [In reply to]
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Take the biner off, grab one of the outer strands and pull.


cfnubbler


Jan 21, 2010, 10:05 AM
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Re: [ssmall123] Extendable Trad Draw knotting up? [In reply to]
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The term "trad draw" is right up there near the top of the list of most annoying climbing terms, lying between "crushing it" and "pinkpoint" on the f*cking annoying scale.


(This post was edited by cfnubbler on Jan 21, 2010, 10:06 AM)


johnwesely


Jan 21, 2010, 10:22 AM
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Re: [cfnubbler] Extendable Trad Draw knotting up? [In reply to]
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cfnubbler wrote:
The term "trad draw" is right up there near the top of the list of most annoying climbing terms, lying between "crushing it" and "pinkpoint" on the f*cking annoying scale.

Apparently not.


cfnubbler


Jan 21, 2010, 10:25 AM
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Re: [johnwesely] Extendable Trad Draw knotting up? [In reply to]
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Apparently not what?


hafilax


Jan 21, 2010, 10:32 AM
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Re: [cfnubbler] Extendable Trad Draw knotting up? [In reply to]
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3 votes of 1 star says that the people disagree.


cfnubbler


Jan 21, 2010, 10:38 AM
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Re: [hafilax] Extendable Trad Draw knotting up? [In reply to]
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Oh, I see. I've been outvoted. Or something.

Whatever, I stand by my original post.

By all means, rack up your trad draws and crush your pink point proj. It's fine by me!


sknowlton


Jan 21, 2010, 10:52 AM
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Re: [cfnubbler] Extendable Trad Draw knotting up? [In reply to]
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cfnubbler wrote:
The term "trad draw" is right up there near the top of the list of most annoying climbing terms, lying between "crushing it" and "pinkpoint" on the f*cking annoying scale.

Uh no.


johnwesely


Jan 21, 2010, 11:10 AM
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Re: [cfnubbler] Extendable Trad Draw knotting up? [In reply to]
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cfnubbler wrote:
Oh, I see. I've been outvoted. Or something.

Whatever, I stand by my original post.

By all means, rack up your trad draws and crush your pink point proj. It's fine by me!

Why aren't you psyched on all this sick slang?


the_climber


Jan 21, 2010, 11:13 AM
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Re: [johnwesely] Extendable Trad Draw knotting up? [In reply to]
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johnwesely wrote:
cfnubbler wrote:
Oh, I see. I've been outvoted. Or something.

Whatever, I stand by my original post.

By all means, rack up your trad draws and crush your pink point proj. It's fine by me!

Why aren't you psyched on all this sick slang?

Likely because it all extends from gym rats and sport wankers.


cfnubbler


Jan 21, 2010, 11:27 AM
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Re: [the_climber] Extendable Trad Draw knotting up? [In reply to]
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the_climber wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
cfnubbler wrote:
Oh, I see. I've been outvoted. Or something.

Whatever, I stand by my original post.

By all means, rack up your trad draws and crush your pink point proj. It's fine by me!

Why aren't you psyched on all this sick slang?

Likely because it all extends from gym rats and sport wankers.

Yup.


sbaclimber


Jan 21, 2010, 11:41 AM
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Re: [cfnubbler] Extendable Trad Draw knotting up? [In reply to]
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cfnubbler wrote:
the_climber wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
cfnubbler wrote:
Oh, I see. I've been outvoted. Or something.

Whatever, I stand by my original post.

By all means, rack up your trad draws and crush your pink point proj. It's fine by me!

Why aren't you psyched on all this sick slang?

Likely because it all extends from gym rats and sport wankers.

Yup.
Okay, fair enough, a "trad draw" isn't a "draw", but come'on.....
do you have a shorter term for a "tripled sling with two pre-attached 'biners" than, well....a "tripled sling with two pre-attached 'biners"?

....and, yes, "pinkpoint" my be wankery, but it is still better than claiming a ground-up ascent when it wasn'tTongue


hafilax


Jan 21, 2010, 11:44 AM
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Re: [sbaclimber] Extendable Trad Draw knotting up? [In reply to]
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sbaclimber wrote:
cfnubbler wrote:
the_climber wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
cfnubbler wrote:
Oh, I see. I've been outvoted. Or something.

Whatever, I stand by my original post.

By all means, rack up your trad draws and crush your pink point proj. It's fine by me!

Why aren't you psyched on all this sick slang?

Likely because it all extends from gym rats and sport wankers.

Yup.
Okay, fair enough, a "trad draw" isn't a "draw", but come'on.....
do you have a shorter term for a "tripled sling with two pre-attached 'biners" than, well....a "tripled sling with two pre-attached 'biners"?

....and, yes, "pinkpoint" my be wankery, but it is still better than claiming a ground-up ascent when it wasn'tTongue
Extendo


sbaclimber


Jan 21, 2010, 11:48 AM
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Re: [hafilax] Extendable Trad Draw knotting up? [In reply to]
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hafilax wrote:
sbaclimber wrote:
cfnubbler wrote:
the_climber wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
cfnubbler wrote:
Oh, I see. I've been outvoted. Or something.

Whatever, I stand by my original post.

By all means, rack up your trad draws and crush your pink point proj. It's fine by me!

Why aren't you psyched on all this sick slang?

Likely because it all extends from gym rats and sport wankers.

Yup.
Okay, fair enough, a "trad draw" isn't a "draw", but come'on.....
do you have a shorter term for a "tripled sling with two pre-attached 'biners" than, well....a "tripled sling with two pre-attached 'biners"?

....and, yes, "pinkpoint" my be wankery, but it is still better than claiming a ground-up ascent when it wasn'tTongue
Extendo
I like it!Cool


graniteboy


Jan 21, 2010, 11:52 AM
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Re: [sbaclimber] Extendable Trad Draw knotting up? [In reply to]
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sbaclimber wrote:
cfnubbler wrote:
the_climber wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
cfnubbler wrote:
Oh, I see. I've been outvoted. Or something.

Whatever, I stand by my original post.

By all means, rack up your trad draws and crush your pink point proj. It's fine by me!

Why aren't you psyched on all this sick slang?

Likely because it all extends from gym rats and sport wankers.

Yup.
Okay, fair enough, a "trad draw" isn't a "draw", but come'on.....
do you have a shorter term for a "tripled sling with two pre-attached 'biners" than, well....a "tripled sling with two pre-attached 'biners"?

....and, yes, "pinkpoint" my be wankery, but it is still better than claiming a ground-up ascent when it wasn'tTongue


Hmmmm....letzsseee.....Me and the boys have been calling them "Runners" or "Racked runners" for about 40 years now. I suppose. Maybe a bit less. Cool


sbaclimber


Jan 21, 2010, 12:17 PM
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Re: [graniteboy] Extendable Trad Draw knotting up? [In reply to]
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graniteboy wrote:
sbaclimber wrote:
cfnubbler wrote:
the_climber wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
cfnubbler wrote:
Oh, I see. I've been outvoted. Or something.

Whatever, I stand by my original post.

By all means, rack up your trad draws and crush your pink point proj. It's fine by me!

Why aren't you psyched on all this sick slang?

Likely because it all extends from gym rats and sport wankers.

Yup.
Okay, fair enough, a "trad draw" isn't a "draw", but come'on.....
do you have a shorter term for a "tripled sling with two pre-attached 'biners" than, well....a "tripled sling with two pre-attached 'biners"?

....and, yes, "pinkpoint" my be wankery, but it is still better than claiming a ground-up ascent when it wasn'tTongue


Hmmmm....letzsseee.....Me and the boys have been calling them "Runners" or "Racked runners" for about 40 years now. I suppose. Maybe a bit less. Cool
"Racked runners" is not bad...but still not as short as "trad draws"Wink


(This post was edited by sbaclimber on Jan 21, 2010, 12:21 PM)


climbingaz


Jan 21, 2010, 12:36 PM
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Re: [sbaclimber] Extendable Trad Draw knotting up? [In reply to]
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How about slowdraws?Tongue


coastal_climber


Jan 21, 2010, 12:36 PM
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Re: [sbaclimber] Extendable Trad Draw knotting up? [In reply to]
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Trad draw story: Climbing in squish, leading a wet dike pitch, extended a piece with trad draw, climbed about 2/3rds of the route and went to clip a piece and the rope wouldn't come up. I immediately thought it was my belayer not giving me slack. He was giving me slack, but I wasn't getting it. Turns out a trad draw had wrapped itself around the rope creating a prusik, stopping the rope from moving. Some aggressive swearing and rope flipping saved the day.


the_climber


Jan 21, 2010, 12:58 PM
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Re: [sbaclimber] Extendable Trad Draw knotting up? [In reply to]
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sbaclimber wrote:
graniteboy wrote:
sbaclimber wrote:
cfnubbler wrote:
the_climber wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
cfnubbler wrote:
Oh, I see. I've been outvoted. Or something.

Whatever, I stand by my original post.

By all means, rack up your trad draws and crush your pink point proj. It's fine by me!

Why aren't you psyched on all this sick slang?

Likely because it all extends from gym rats and sport wankers.

Yup.
Okay, fair enough, a "trad draw" isn't a "draw", but come'on.....
do you have a shorter term for a "tripled sling with two pre-attached 'biners" than, well....a "tripled sling with two pre-attached 'biners"?

....and, yes, "pinkpoint" my be wankery, but it is still better than claiming a ground-up ascent when it wasn'tTongue


Hmmmm....letzsseee.....Me and the boys have been calling them "Runners" or "Racked runners" for about 40 years now. I suppose. Maybe a bit less. Cool
"Racked runners" is not bad...but still not as short as "trad draws"Wink

Uhhh... sling(s) or runner(s) is shorter still, and what we tend to call them... funny, as they are "slings".... wierd.


joeforte


Jan 21, 2010, 1:07 PM
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Re: [coastal_climber] Extendable Trad Draw knotting up? [In reply to]
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To solve this problem, I do two things. First I mark all my my rope end biners, which is a good idea anyways. Then I take a super small rubber band and fix the rope end biner to a spot in the sling near the bartack.

When you triple it, you have to make sure the rope end biner goes through the pro end.

Then when it comes time to place+extend it, it's easy to unclip the correct two strands, and the biner is always facing in the right direction.

I also move the slings around every few months to make sure they are not wearing unevenly due to the rubber band, but this might be unnecessary, considering sport draws stay in the same spot throughout their lifetime.

This method works great for me. Your mileage may vary.


sbaclimber


Jan 21, 2010, 1:09 PM
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Re: [the_climber] Extendable Trad Draw knotting up? [In reply to]
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the_climber wrote:
sbaclimber wrote:
graniteboy wrote:
sbaclimber wrote:
cfnubbler wrote:
the_climber wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
cfnubbler wrote:
Oh, I see. I've been outvoted. Or something.

Whatever, I stand by my original post.

By all means, rack up your trad draws and crush your pink point proj. It's fine by me!

Why aren't you psyched on all this sick slang?

Likely because it all extends from gym rats and sport wankers.

Yup.
Okay, fair enough, a "trad draw" isn't a "draw", but come'on.....
do you have a shorter term for a "tripled sling with two pre-attached 'biners" than, well....a "tripled sling with two pre-attached 'biners"?

....and, yes, "pinkpoint" my be wankery, but it is still better than claiming a ground-up ascent when it wasn'tTongue


Hmmmm....letzsseee.....Me and the boys have been calling them "Runners" or "Racked runners" for about 40 years now. I suppose. Maybe a bit less. Cool
"Racked runners" is not bad...but still not as short as "trad draws"Wink

Uhhh... sling(s) or runner(s) is shorter still, and what we tend to call them... funny, as they are "slings".... wierd.
Uhhh.... sling(s) or runner(s) are in my world
(may well be fantasy...) by default extended and not necessarily pre-equipped with 2 carabiners (e.g. "shoulder sling").
A "trad draw" is simply a short descriptive term for a particular manner of racking a sling or draw.
Is that really so bad......??


cfnubbler


Jan 21, 2010, 1:11 PM
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Re: [graniteboy] Extendable Trad Draw knotting up? [In reply to]
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graniteboy wrote:
sbaclimber wrote:
cfnubbler wrote:
the_climber wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
cfnubbler wrote:
Oh, I see. I've been outvoted. Or something.

Whatever, I stand by my original post.

By all means, rack up your trad draws and crush your pink point proj. It's fine by me!

Why aren't you psyched on all this sick slang?

Likely because it all extends from gym rats and sport wankers.

Yup.
Okay, fair enough, a "trad draw" isn't a "draw", but come'on.....
do you have a shorter term for a "tripled sling with two pre-attached 'biners" than, well....a "tripled sling with two pre-attached 'biners"?

....and, yes, "pinkpoint" my be wankery, but it is still better than claiming a ground-up ascent when it wasn'tTongue


Hmmmm....letzsseee.....Me and the boys have been calling them "Runners" or "Racked runners" for about 40 years now. I suppose. Maybe a bit less. Cool

Ditto.

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