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ssmall123
Jan 21, 2010, 5:33 PM
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Anyone have a trick to keep the sling from knotting up in a jumbled girth hitch type thing when extending a trad draw.
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bandycoot
Jan 21, 2010, 5:37 PM
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Triple it up with as few twists as possible. It should be "clean." That said, even if you've done it a thousand times, it will still occasionally get all funked up. There's not much you can do about it. Sometimes it's the bar tack that creates the problem, and sometimes it just doesn't want to cooperate.
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Gmburns2000
Jan 21, 2010, 5:46 PM
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bandycoot wrote: Triple it up with as few twists as possible. It should be "clean." That said, even if you've done it a thousand times, it will still occasionally get all funked up. There's not much you can do about it. Sometimes it's the bar tack that creates the problem, and sometimes it just doesn't want to cooperate. +1 I find that when this happens to me it is because the draw wasn't cleaned nicely, usually with the second pumped out with only one hand available and a "fuck it, I'm gonna deal with this at the anchor" attitude. Of course, fixing it rarely happens, if ever. So yeah, make sure you triple it nicely and you shouldn't have problems. I often try to make sure the bar tack is set on the side where I'm likely to pull out when I'm extending it. I try to do that when I triple the sling. I also find having the bar tack on the outer loops helps, too.
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hafilax
Jan 21, 2010, 5:58 PM
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Take the biner off, grab one of the outer strands and pull.
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cfnubbler
Jan 21, 2010, 6:05 PM
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The term "trad draw" is right up there near the top of the list of most annoying climbing terms, lying between "crushing it" and "pinkpoint" on the f*cking annoying scale.
(This post was edited by cfnubbler on Jan 21, 2010, 6:06 PM)
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johnwesely
Jan 21, 2010, 6:22 PM
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cfnubbler wrote: The term "trad draw" is right up there near the top of the list of most annoying climbing terms, lying between "crushing it" and "pinkpoint" on the f*cking annoying scale. Apparently not.
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cfnubbler
Jan 21, 2010, 6:25 PM
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Apparently not what?
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hafilax
Jan 21, 2010, 6:32 PM
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3 votes of 1 star says that the people disagree.
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cfnubbler
Jan 21, 2010, 6:38 PM
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Oh, I see. I've been outvoted. Or something. Whatever, I stand by my original post. By all means, rack up your trad draws and crush your pink point proj. It's fine by me!
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sknowlton
Jan 21, 2010, 6:52 PM
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cfnubbler wrote: The term "trad draw" is right up there near the top of the list of most annoying climbing terms, lying between "crushing it" and "pinkpoint" on the f*cking annoying scale. Uh no.
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johnwesely
Jan 21, 2010, 7:10 PM
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cfnubbler wrote: Oh, I see. I've been outvoted. Or something. Whatever, I stand by my original post. By all means, rack up your trad draws and crush your pink point proj. It's fine by me! Why aren't you psyched on all this sick slang?
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the_climber
Jan 21, 2010, 7:13 PM
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johnwesely wrote: cfnubbler wrote: Oh, I see. I've been outvoted. Or something. Whatever, I stand by my original post. By all means, rack up your trad draws and crush your pink point proj. It's fine by me! Why aren't you psyched on all this sick slang? Likely because it all extends from gym rats and sport wankers.
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cfnubbler
Jan 21, 2010, 7:27 PM
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the_climber wrote: johnwesely wrote: cfnubbler wrote: Oh, I see. I've been outvoted. Or something. Whatever, I stand by my original post. By all means, rack up your trad draws and crush your pink point proj. It's fine by me! Why aren't you psyched on all this sick slang? Likely because it all extends from gym rats and sport wankers. Yup.
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sbaclimber
Jan 21, 2010, 7:41 PM
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cfnubbler wrote: the_climber wrote: johnwesely wrote: cfnubbler wrote: Oh, I see. I've been outvoted. Or something. Whatever, I stand by my original post. By all means, rack up your trad draws and crush your pink point proj. It's fine by me! Why aren't you psyched on all this sick slang? Likely because it all extends from gym rats and sport wankers. Yup. Okay, fair enough, a "trad draw" isn't a "draw", but come'on..... do you have a shorter term for a "tripled sling with two pre-attached 'biners" than, well....a "tripled sling with two pre-attached 'biners"? ....and, yes, "pinkpoint" my be wankery, but it is still better than claiming a ground-up ascent when it wasn't
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hafilax
Jan 21, 2010, 7:44 PM
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sbaclimber wrote: cfnubbler wrote: the_climber wrote: johnwesely wrote: cfnubbler wrote: Oh, I see. I've been outvoted. Or something. Whatever, I stand by my original post. By all means, rack up your trad draws and crush your pink point proj. It's fine by me! Why aren't you psyched on all this sick slang? Likely because it all extends from gym rats and sport wankers. Yup. Okay, fair enough, a "trad draw" isn't a "draw", but come'on..... do you have a shorter term for a "tripled sling with two pre-attached 'biners" than, well....a "tripled sling with two pre-attached 'biners"? ....and, yes, "pinkpoint" my be wankery, but it is still better than claiming a ground-up ascent when it wasn't Extendo
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sbaclimber
Jan 21, 2010, 7:48 PM
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hafilax wrote: sbaclimber wrote: cfnubbler wrote: the_climber wrote: johnwesely wrote: cfnubbler wrote: Oh, I see. I've been outvoted. Or something. Whatever, I stand by my original post. By all means, rack up your trad draws and crush your pink point proj. It's fine by me! Why aren't you psyched on all this sick slang? Likely because it all extends from gym rats and sport wankers. Yup. Okay, fair enough, a "trad draw" isn't a "draw", but come'on..... do you have a shorter term for a "tripled sling with two pre-attached 'biners" than, well....a "tripled sling with two pre-attached 'biners"? ....and, yes, "pinkpoint" my be wankery, but it is still better than claiming a ground-up ascent when it wasn't Extendo I like it!
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graniteboy
Jan 21, 2010, 7:52 PM
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sbaclimber wrote: cfnubbler wrote: the_climber wrote: johnwesely wrote: cfnubbler wrote: Oh, I see. I've been outvoted. Or something. Whatever, I stand by my original post. By all means, rack up your trad draws and crush your pink point proj. It's fine by me! Why aren't you psyched on all this sick slang? Likely because it all extends from gym rats and sport wankers. Yup. Okay, fair enough, a "trad draw" isn't a "draw", but come'on..... do you have a shorter term for a "tripled sling with two pre-attached 'biners" than, well....a "tripled sling with two pre-attached 'biners"? ....and, yes, "pinkpoint" my be wankery, but it is still better than claiming a ground-up ascent when it wasn't Hmmmm....letzsseee.....Me and the boys have been calling them "Runners" or "Racked runners" for about 40 years now. I suppose. Maybe a bit less.
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sbaclimber
Jan 21, 2010, 8:17 PM
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graniteboy wrote: sbaclimber wrote: cfnubbler wrote: the_climber wrote: johnwesely wrote: cfnubbler wrote: Oh, I see. I've been outvoted. Or something. Whatever, I stand by my original post. By all means, rack up your trad draws and crush your pink point proj. It's fine by me! Why aren't you psyched on all this sick slang? Likely because it all extends from gym rats and sport wankers. Yup. Okay, fair enough, a "trad draw" isn't a "draw", but come'on..... do you have a shorter term for a "tripled sling with two pre-attached 'biners" than, well....a "tripled sling with two pre-attached 'biners"? ....and, yes, "pinkpoint" my be wankery, but it is still better than claiming a ground-up ascent when it wasn't Hmmmm....letzsseee.....Me and the boys have been calling them "Runners" or "Racked runners" for about 40 years now. I suppose. Maybe a bit less. "Racked runners" is not bad...but still not as short as "trad draws"
(This post was edited by sbaclimber on Jan 21, 2010, 8:21 PM)
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climbingaz
Jan 21, 2010, 8:36 PM
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How about slowdraws?
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coastal_climber
Jan 21, 2010, 8:36 PM
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Trad draw story: Climbing in squish, leading a wet dike pitch, extended a piece with trad draw, climbed about 2/3rds of the route and went to clip a piece and the rope wouldn't come up. I immediately thought it was my belayer not giving me slack. He was giving me slack, but I wasn't getting it. Turns out a trad draw had wrapped itself around the rope creating a prusik, stopping the rope from moving. Some aggressive swearing and rope flipping saved the day.
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the_climber
Jan 21, 2010, 8:58 PM
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sbaclimber wrote: graniteboy wrote: sbaclimber wrote: cfnubbler wrote: the_climber wrote: johnwesely wrote: cfnubbler wrote: Oh, I see. I've been outvoted. Or something. Whatever, I stand by my original post. By all means, rack up your trad draws and crush your pink point proj. It's fine by me! Why aren't you psyched on all this sick slang? Likely because it all extends from gym rats and sport wankers. Yup. Okay, fair enough, a "trad draw" isn't a "draw", but come'on..... do you have a shorter term for a "tripled sling with two pre-attached 'biners" than, well....a "tripled sling with two pre-attached 'biners"? ....and, yes, "pinkpoint" my be wankery, but it is still better than claiming a ground-up ascent when it wasn't Hmmmm....letzsseee.....Me and the boys have been calling them "Runners" or "Racked runners" for about 40 years now. I suppose. Maybe a bit less. "Racked runners" is not bad...but still not as short as "trad draws" Uhhh... sling(s) or runner(s) is shorter still, and what we tend to call them... funny, as they are "slings".... wierd.
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joeforte
Jan 21, 2010, 9:07 PM
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To solve this problem, I do two things. First I mark all my my rope end biners, which is a good idea anyways. Then I take a super small rubber band and fix the rope end biner to a spot in the sling near the bartack. When you triple it, you have to make sure the rope end biner goes through the pro end. Then when it comes time to place+extend it, it's easy to unclip the correct two strands, and the biner is always facing in the right direction. I also move the slings around every few months to make sure they are not wearing unevenly due to the rubber band, but this might be unnecessary, considering sport draws stay in the same spot throughout their lifetime. This method works great for me. Your mileage may vary.
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sbaclimber
Jan 21, 2010, 9:09 PM
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the_climber wrote: sbaclimber wrote: graniteboy wrote: sbaclimber wrote: cfnubbler wrote: the_climber wrote: johnwesely wrote: cfnubbler wrote: Oh, I see. I've been outvoted. Or something. Whatever, I stand by my original post. By all means, rack up your trad draws and crush your pink point proj. It's fine by me! Why aren't you psyched on all this sick slang? Likely because it all extends from gym rats and sport wankers. Yup. Okay, fair enough, a "trad draw" isn't a "draw", but come'on..... do you have a shorter term for a "tripled sling with two pre-attached 'biners" than, well....a "tripled sling with two pre-attached 'biners"? ....and, yes, "pinkpoint" my be wankery, but it is still better than claiming a ground-up ascent when it wasn't Hmmmm....letzsseee.....Me and the boys have been calling them "Runners" or "Racked runners" for about 40 years now. I suppose. Maybe a bit less. "Racked runners" is not bad...but still not as short as "trad draws" Uhhh... sling(s) or runner(s) is shorter still, and what we tend to call them... funny, as they are "slings".... wierd. Uhhh.... sling(s) or runner(s) are in my world (may well be fantasy...) by default extended and not necessarily pre-equipped with 2 carabiners (e.g. "shoulder sling"). A "trad draw" is simply a short descriptive term for a particular manner of racking a sling or draw. Is that really so bad......??
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cfnubbler
Jan 21, 2010, 9:11 PM
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graniteboy wrote: sbaclimber wrote: cfnubbler wrote: the_climber wrote: johnwesely wrote: cfnubbler wrote: Oh, I see. I've been outvoted. Or something. Whatever, I stand by my original post. By all means, rack up your trad draws and crush your pink point proj. It's fine by me! Why aren't you psyched on all this sick slang? Likely because it all extends from gym rats and sport wankers. Yup. Okay, fair enough, a "trad draw" isn't a "draw", but come'on..... do you have a shorter term for a "tripled sling with two pre-attached 'biners" than, well....a "tripled sling with two pre-attached 'biners"? ....and, yes, "pinkpoint" my be wankery, but it is still better than claiming a ground-up ascent when it wasn't Hmmmm....letzsseee.....Me and the boys have been calling them "Runners" or "Racked runners" for about 40 years now. I suppose. Maybe a bit less. Ditto.
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