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amyotoole
Jan 21, 2010, 12:26 AM
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My boyfriend and I will be embarking on a climbing/bouldering trip through North America during Aug-Nov. We will be in Squamish from May but wanting to head to Smith Rock, Yosemite, Buttermilks and Hueco.
We are from Australia so we don't really know when the best times to visit these places are, so we need a bit of advice from local climbers! Any info would be most appreciated!
Also, can anyone recommend any other areas we should check out?
Thanks :)
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macherry
Jan 21, 2010, 1:13 AM
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not a trip report moved to general
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chrisJoosse
Jan 21, 2010, 8:13 PM
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On the way from squamish to smith, stop at Index.
http://www.mountainproject.com/...town_walls/105790635
OK, it may be a little out of the way, but you might get there and decide you like granite better than tuff.
Smith is on the lee (east) side of the cascades, and might be dry later in the season when the winter rains (coming off the pacific) come- here in WA, we expect them in October but sometimes they don't show 'til November.
I can't speak to the seasons anywhere else.
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kachoong
Jan 21, 2010, 8:28 PM
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I'm sure you guys will be able to fit in quite a few areas during that time. Think about adding Josh, maybe Owens River and a couple of areas in AZ on your way through to Hueco. You could sneak over to the Creek around Sept/Oct too.
Where will you be flying out of?
We might be able to be around Hueco in Oct/Nov.... it's about 6 hrs from here.
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Gmburns2000
Jan 21, 2010, 8:30 PM
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I'd think Red Rocks in Vegas and Moab in Utah might be decent hits if that's the route you take. Those might be better later in the trip than earlier.
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amyotoole
Jan 21, 2010, 11:42 PM
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Were flying out of LA mid Nov, would be great to meet up with some locals who know the areas!
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silascl
Jan 22, 2010, 12:11 AM
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What kind of climbing do you want to do?
What kind of grades?
Your questions are a bit too broad to get good answers.
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sspssp
Jan 22, 2010, 12:38 AM
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Yea, in addition to type of climbing and grades, how hot of conditions do you want and do you want to hit a few places and get more climbing in or do you want to spend more time driving/exploring, but a little less climbing.
Squamish might still be pretty wet in May (although you may realize that already). By June, Yosemite valley proper is hot (although many still climb), but the high country of Tuolumne and the Sierras is nice.
October is dry and beautiful almost anywhere except the high country (where it starts to get cool) and November is a good time for many of the desert areas.
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amyotoole
Jan 22, 2010, 3:19 AM
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mainly bouldering but up for sport climbing also
my boyfriend climbs around 5.12c sport and v6+ bouldering, i climb 5.11a and v2-3+ bouldering
we will be on a climbing road trip, so more climbing than exploring
at the moment its summer in Aus and we are climbing in 35 deg plus temps so were not too worried about the heat
we dont know when the best times to climb are which explains why i posted this msg
thanks for the replies so far :)
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byran
Jan 22, 2010, 5:25 AM
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I haven't been to Smith (hoping to this spring), but I'm guessing Aug is probably pretty warm there. Still doable though? I've heard people climb year-round there.
That would put you in Yosemite around September? That's a good time to go. The crowds are starting to disperse, it's cooling off in the Valley, and it's still great weather up in the Meadows. I know there's tons of great bouldering there, for sport climbing you're going to have to search around a bit.
You can't really go wrong with Bishop. No matter what time of year it is, there'll be stuff to climb. Sept-Oct will probably be great for the Buttermilks. Owen's River Gorge has the best sport climbing in California and will be cooling down in Oct, and with the way the canyon snakes, it's easy to chase either shade or sun depending on your preference. If it happens to still be hot down in the desert, there's also some sport crags scattered around the eastside. Pratt's Crack area has some nice looking sport routes.
There's a ton of stuff on the way to Hueco. You could go down to Joshua Tree and take the 10 over through Tucson (Mt Lemmon, Cochise Stronghold). Or you could take the 95 over to Red Rock and then cut down into Flaggstaff (The Pit, Jacks Canyon). From Flaggstaff I'd bump down onto the 60 and take that into New Mexico, hit up Enchanted Tower and Socoro Box before heading down to the 10. I've never been to Hueco but I'm sure it's great in November, and all those other places in the southwest will be in prime conditions in the late fall.
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hafilax
Jan 22, 2010, 4:52 PM
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Squamish in May can be hit or miss. You can always go to Skaha for a sport climbing fix if you arrive in a rainy period. It's about 6h inland and more desert like. If bouldering is more your style then I've heard good things about Leavenworth WA which is about the same distance give or take and also tends to be drier.
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kachoong
Jan 22, 2010, 5:21 PM
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Something else to consider, if you haven't already, is to remember that once you enter the States from Canada you will have a 90 day visa, unless you organise for a longer-term visa. If you plan to fly out of LA at the end of Nov, that means you can enter the U.S. no earlier than the end of Aug. You're a fair way out from your departure, so applying for a 6-month visa couldn't be too hard if you get onto it.
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