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slevin


Jan 28, 2010, 7:06 AM
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Gear?
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I have resumed climbing after a few years off, seem to be getting on relatively well and looking to start leading again, initially on my home crag (the Gunks at the moment) and Yosemite/IC in a little while. Over the years I was sick, however, my gear has gotten lost (don't ask), given away to my former climbing partners etc. So, now I am looking at building up a brand new rack.

At the moment I am thinking:
2 sets of regular camming devices - what brand is good these days? What do you use?

1 set small cams, e.g. Aliens. Is there anything else that compares?

2-3 sets of nuts or stoppers - have not made up my mind on anything yet, any recommendations would be appeciated!

1 set of Camp Tri-Cams - used to love them, they come super-handy in horizontal placements. Question is - should I go with an extra set of flexible spring-loaded stuff, e.g. Metolius cams, instead?

On the slings/draws issue - should I get actual quickdraws plus some long slings or just get a garden variety of slings and biners?

Is it worth getting some dedicated anchor-slings? i never owned one and used to rig anchors from a regular sling.

What helmet is any good? I used to wear a hockey helmet, but it's gone right now.

Am I missing any new and hot items that I now must have?

PS. not sure I should be posting this to trad or gear forum.


Rudmin


Jan 28, 2010, 7:20 AM
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Re: [slevin] Gear? [In reply to]
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BD C4s are the standard for regular sized cams these days. Take that for what you will.

There are a number of fancy cams out with larger expansion ranges.

BD Stoppers, ABC Huevos, OP Wedgies are all identical and do the same job. Some are cheaper than others. Most climbers I know own at least one full set of one of these.

Tricams seem to be more popular at the Gunks than in Yosemite.


karmiclimber


Jan 28, 2010, 7:22 AM
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Re: [slevin] Gear? [In reply to]
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I wouldn't use Aliens bro. Do a board search on them and you will come up with several posts about them failing.

I have a set of Black Diamond camalots, some Metolius TCUs and a couple of technical friends...I think they all get pretty good reviews here.

I only have one pink tri cam. I don't think they are used too much anymore?

As for slings and draws...I have some of both. Some I made myself and some I bought. I love the petzl spirit ones personally. Make sure you have a couple longer and a couple shorter.

Yes, get slings just for anchors.

Yes, get a helmet please.

Various pieces of advice...do not get a Petzl rope, get a Mammut. Arc Teryx makes the coolest clothes to climb in. 5.10 and LaSportiva make the best shoes.
Edit to add: Arc Teryx also makes great harnesses. The lightweight ones are so...light AND comfortable. I think BD made a similar one? But I don't know the name.

How long have you been out of the game?


(This post was edited by karmiclimber on Jan 28, 2010, 7:26 AM)


karmiclimber


Jan 28, 2010, 7:29 AM
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Re: [slevin] Gear? [In reply to]
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Oh and people rave about the Wild Country helium biners.


acorneau


Jan 28, 2010, 7:43 AM
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Re: [slevin] Gear? [In reply to]
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slevin wrote:
2 sets of regular camming devices - what brand is good these days? What do you use?

Usual suspects: BD and Metolius seem to be the most popular with Trango, Wild Country, DMM, etc. filling things out. If you can wait a little bit DMM will be coming out with their new double-axle Dragon cams this year.

In reply to:
1 set small cams, e.g. Aliens. Is there anything else that compares?


Metolius Master Cams seem to be the closest competitor. If you haven't been around in a while you might want to read up on the most recent info on the Aliens quality issues.

In reply to:
2-3 sets of nuts or stoppers - have not made up my mind on anything yet, any recommendations would be appeciated!

One full set of whatever brand you like and one set of the DMM offsets.

In reply to:
1 set of Camp Tri-Cams - used to love them, they come super-handy in horizontal placements. Question is - should I go with an extra set of flexible spring-loaded stuff, e.g. Metolius cams, instead?

If you're used to Tricams then go for it.

In reply to:
On the slings/draws issue - should I get actual quickdraws plus some long slings or just get a garden variety of slings and biners?

I don't use quickdraws for my trad climbing (for the most part), but others use a mixture of draws and slings.

In reply to:
Is it worth getting some dedicated anchor-slings? i never owned one and used to rig anchors from a regular sling.

A 18-22' piece of 7 or 8mm cord is common to a lot of folks anchor-building gear. Some go minimalist and only use the rope, others go for something like the Web-o-lette or the Trango Alpine Equalizer.

In reply to:
What helmet is any good? I used to wear a hockey helmet, but it's gone right now.

Quite a few out there, most are some combination of foam and hard plastic shell.

In reply to:
Am I missing any new and hot items that I now must have?
PS. not sure I should be posting this to trad or gear forum.


My favorite belay device is the Reverso 3, although the ATC-Guide, Grigri and Cinch have strong followings. Light-weight biners are also very popular for shaving considerable weight off the rack.

Good luck!


(This post was edited by acorneau on Jan 28, 2010, 7:50 AM)


brownie710


Jan 28, 2010, 8:37 AM
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Re: [slevin] Gear? [In reply to]
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if your a gunkie then i'd say tricams would be great, i think there is a shrine on top of the uberfall dedicated to the tricam (kidding)
other than that the rest has been said already above this post


slevin


Jan 28, 2010, 8:42 AM
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Re: [karmiclimber] Gear? [In reply to]
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Thanks!

Failing gear does not sound good, gonna stay away from it.

Let me start shopping, though it would be nice to hear some opinons from people who have placed ot and (especially!) taken falls on the gear.

Clothing-wise I think I will go (as I used to) with jeans and T-shirt/sweatshirt, unless the new stuff has some sort of anti-gravity lining in it :)

Shoes - I am a 5.10 Moccasym person, so gonna stick with that choice. I also own a pair of anasazis for bouldering and such, so nothing to buy.

I've been out for 6 years, had health problems. So I am back in the 5.10-5.11 range, slowly working through the moves, building up strength etc. Need to get rid of some flab too, i am like 10-12 lbs overwight.


currupt4130


Jan 28, 2010, 8:46 AM
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Re: [slevin] Gear? [In reply to]
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As for cams the most popular are Black Diamond C4's by a long shot. I have a double rack of them and it fills my every need at the New River Gorge.

Small cams are a funny thing. I use and love my aliens but as mentioned there is a lot of hype over their QC. You should read up on them and their issues before commiting to them. Metolious has their Mastercams which are similar to aliens but the camming angle sucks and the stem is way stiffer. TCU's have the same angle but seem to be more workable IMHO. I hate the C3's, some people love them. The Wild Country Zeros that I had I didn't care for either.

Nuts. Get some DMM offsets. Very very close to the HB offsets with a slight taper change (I believe). Add a set of whatever other nut you like, I like my Black Diamond/Omega Pacific/generic nuts. I also have some new DMM Peenuts that look sweet but haven't had a chance to use yet.

Definitely get the tricams. At least a single set of the pink, red, blue and brown.

I personally very rarely use my sport draws on my trad gear unless I have to. That being said I have about 14 shoulder length runners that stay tripled and a a couple double length that stay tripled. The ultra light ones are nice, but I'd get a couple beefier ones to thrash on too.

I just carry a cordalette for anchors. About 17-20 feet works well for everything I need.

I don't wear a helmet, sorry.

I also like the Reverso 3 as someone mentioned above. It get's used a lot for me.

Don't forget the nut tool, some prussic chord, maybe a personal anchor system and a harness if yours is way outdated. There are several on the market that are great, but I personally won't buy one without a haul loop. That made it kind of hard for me to find one but I just picked up a Wild Country Synchro that's nice. Used a Black Diamond Momentum for a while but found some limitations and upgraded.

Everyone has a different personal anchor system but Metolious has one that is way better than a daisy chain and a lot safer.


(This post was edited by currupt4130 on Jan 28, 2010, 8:47 AM)


acorneau


Jan 28, 2010, 9:40 AM
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Re: [currupt4130] Gear? [In reply to]
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currupt4130 wrote:
Everyone has a different personal anchor system but Metolious has one that is way better than a daisy chain and a lot safer.

Metolius PAS: http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/...l_anchor_system.html

Sterling Chain Reactor: http://www.sterlingrope.com/...ain/_/Chain_Reactors

BlueWater Titan Loop Chain: http://bluewaterropes.com/...Key=&ProdKey=268

Misty Mountain Anchor Chain: http://mistymountain.com/anchor.htm


qtm


Jan 28, 2010, 10:23 AM
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Re: [acorneau] Gear? [In reply to]
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I'm using a purcell prusik to anchor (if I don't use the rope).

Double set of cams plus small cams, 3 sets of nuts, and tricams? That's quite a bit. I carry a *big* rack for the gunks, but certainly not that many pieces. Still, if you've got the money, there's nothing wrong with buying lots of gear!

I carry BD C4- .3x2 & .4
BD Old single stems .5-3
Metolius master yellow & blue (not sure if I like them)
WC Zero yellow & blue (because they weight nothing, don't really use them though).
Took my aliens off the rack.
I recently got red and green C3's, haven't used them much yet.

Set of Frost Sentinels, the gunks rock just sucks them up. 4 smallest brass offsets. No tricams.

4- 4' runners, 6-2' runners.

For racking gear, I use a mix of WC Heliums and DMM Shields... both are notchless which makes taking gear off the loops much easier. They're also skinny so you can fit more gear on your loops.

For the tripled runners, I use the OP JC Wires, which I don't think are made anymore. I just like the way they clip, but I can't lose any since I can't get any more. Not sure what I'd go with today, maybe just stick with the Heliums.

I've got a lot of other gear I can pack if I think I'll need them, but in general I don't bring them. Set of Tech Friends up to #3, Smiley Nuts (like Huevos), and the Aliens if I feel I really need more gear.

Mammut Genesis doubles, on my second set, love them. Or Bluewater Accelerator 10.5 for TR days with kids.

I prefer Marmot clothes just because they fit me better than other brands.

I have an old Ecrin Roc, fits me OK. I don't like foam core helmets. Yes, you need a helmet at the gunks, especially if you're climbing popular routes as there's a lot of stuff coming down from parties above.

I have an BD ATC Guide belay device, as I climb with three often and sometimes I want the ability to autoblock.

I have an ArcTeryx pack, but only because I got it as a gift years ago before Graham started making packs. When this goes, I'll definitely get a Cilogear!


jrathfon


Jan 28, 2010, 10:47 AM
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Re: [slevin] Gear? [In reply to]
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My ideal rack if starting new, turns out it's my current rack also! Good for onsighting most everything (trim it out a bit particular to the climb) from East to West coast. If out West, having a few more large pieces tends to come in handy. This is for free climbing FYI.

2 sets of C4's from 0.3-3, and a 4 (can add a 2nd 4 and a 5)

a set of aliens from blue to yellow: there are certain situations where no alternative is better, e.g. soft rock, gunks horizontals, pin scars (good luck finding them!)

a set of C3's from purple to red (00-1)

one set of BD nuts (4-13) (or equivalent)
one set of BD micros (3rd size to largest)
one set of DMM offset brassies (3rd to largest)
depending on the locale and climb i will rack 4-10 BD, and 3rd to largest micros of either or, plus doubles above the micros (7?-9) for a heavy nut pitch, singles otherwise

for the gunks, YES TRICAMS, you only really need pink and red, brown is nice for a belay piece, some gunkies double up on pink and red, the black is also useful, for climbing cracks anywhere else, they are pretty much useless, nice in eyebrows in NC

i like color coded racking biners, up until this year, that meant BD neutrinos, but now there are metolius FS minis and DMM spectres?

i generally climb with a mix of draws and trad draws (alpine, trippled, etc), when doing traversy wandering stuff i'll carry more trad draws (up to 8 or 10) less quickdraws (2), and cracks i'll carry like 2 of each, onsighting something more or less straight forward i'll tend towards 4 and 4.

mammut skinny slings are the way to go, 10 shoulder length, 2 double shoulder lengths (big roofs (gunks) or doing a tied of sliding-x for a two bolt anchor)

6mm x 20' cordalette for 3 piece anchors or trees.

draws: 2 long (20cm) oz's are light and pimp, i have about 6 helium draws, they are amazing. the rest i fill in with all wiregate trad draws: moses' are awesome, camp nano 23's, astros, nitros, xenons, heliums are all super light and great.

helmet: meteor, super light, super comfy, usually walk out with it on not even realizing it, though watch it while packing it on a plane, they are kind of fragile

ropes: trad work horse: sterling marathon pro 10.1, nice light line: bluewater lightning pro 9.7

gri-gri, atc-guide, some lockers, done deal


currupt4130


Jan 28, 2010, 11:00 AM
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Re: [qtm] Gear? [In reply to]
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qtm wrote:

I carry BD C4- .3x2 & .4

Do you actually use your .3 and .4 much?

I seldom even pull mine off my rack due to the head width. The small range and huge head width don't work well for me, at least where I climb. If I had to tell anyone what cams not to buy, they'd probably be on the list too.


qtm


Jan 28, 2010, 11:34 AM
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Sure, I use the .3s frequently. Replaces my two green aliens now that they're off my rack. The .4 gets used as well, as a replacement for the yellow alien. The green and yellow were my most frequently placed pieces, so yeah, I use the .3s and .4 a lot.

Not that I *really* like them, I miss the aliens. But they're a more direct match to the size of green and yellow than other manufacturers, so it might just be inertia.

Yeah, if you're not enamored to Aliens, you don't need them. I find them convenient since I know the sizing of those two really well.


slevin


Jan 29, 2010, 3:03 AM
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Re: [currupt4130] Gear? [In reply to]
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currupt4130 wrote:
I don't wear a helmet, sorry.
I only wore a helmet when i would either be on R-rated routes or there was a chance a rock/pebble fall. I have also had a beautiful woman drop a large size Metolius TCU on my head as she was leading Shockleys Ceiling.

On a different gear-oriented question, do you guys tape-up for crack climbs or do it au naturelle?


mrtristan


Jan 29, 2010, 8:36 AM
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slevin wrote:
I have resumed climbing after a few years off, seem to be getting on relatively well and looking to start leading again, initially on my home crag (the Gunks at the moment) and Yosemite/IC in a little while. Over the years I was sick, however, my gear has gotten lost (don't ask), given away to my former climbing partners etc. So, now I am looking at building up a brand new rack.

At the moment I am thinking:
2 sets of regular camming devices - what brand is good these days? What do you use?

1 set small cams, e.g. Aliens. Is there anything else that compares?

2-3 sets of nuts or stoppers - have not made up my mind on anything yet, any recommendations would be appeciated!

1 set of Camp Tri-Cams - used to love them, they come super-handy in horizontal placements. Question is - should I go with an extra set of flexible spring-loaded stuff, e.g. Metolius cams, instead?

On the slings/draws issue - should I get actual quickdraws plus some long slings or just get a garden variety of slings and biners?

Is it worth getting some dedicated anchor-slings? i never owned one and used to rig anchors from a regular sling.

What helmet is any good? I used to wear a hockey helmet, but it's gone right now.

Am I missing any new and hot items that I now must have?

PS. not sure I should be posting this to trad or gear forum.

I think BD cams are the best. I think there are more evangelists for BD cams than any other. I've used Friends (rigid and tech), Aliens, Metolius, HB, Trango, and others, and nothing compares with the BD, IMO.

I have a set of tricams and don't use them very often. I usually only take them on desert aid routes. If you're just getting back into it, I don't think you'll need them, and I don't think you'd need a third set of cams right away either.

I have one set of BD Stoppers and one set of offsets (HB Brass and Aluminum, though now they're made by DMM) and I've been very happy with that mix. There are a ton of nuts similar to the Stoppers that will all get the job done.

If you sport climb, get dedicated draws. If not, just do the whole sling-biner thing.

Yes, I think it's worth getting a dedicated anchor sling. My buddy has the Trango Equalizer and loves it. I've got the Mountain Tools Webolette and I love it.

As far as helmets go, I've only ever used the BD Half Dome. I like it just fine, but I don't know how it compares to other helmets.

I see that you didn't say anything about hexes. Good. I hate those things... Do you have a nut tool?


Partner cracklover


Jan 29, 2010, 9:26 AM
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I dunno, should I bring up the whole deal about cordelettes that he missed in the last six years?

Oops, too late, I already did!

GO


currupt4130


Jan 29, 2010, 9:44 AM
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slevin wrote:
currupt4130 wrote:
I don't wear a helmet, sorry.
I only wore a helmet when i would either be on R-rated routes or there was a chance a rock/pebble fall. I have also had a beautiful woman drop a large size Metolius TCU on my head as she was leading Shockleys Ceiling.

On a different gear-oriented question, do you guys tape-up for crack climbs or do it au naturelle?

I tape if I want my hands to last if I'm climbing cracks all weekend. If it's just one or two jams here or there I don't.


Partner cracklover


Jan 29, 2010, 10:15 AM
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currupt4130 wrote:
slevin wrote:
currupt4130 wrote:
I don't wear a helmet, sorry.
I only wore a helmet when i would either be on R-rated routes or there was a chance a rock/pebble fall. I have also had a beautiful woman drop a large size Metolius TCU on my head as she was leading Shockleys Ceiling.

On a different gear-oriented question, do you guys tape-up for crack climbs or do it au naturelle?

I tape if I want my hands to last if I'm climbing cracks all weekend. If it's just one or two jams here or there I don't.

Mostly, no. At the Gunks, you bet your sweet ass. Anyone who says they never tape for crack needs to do a circuit of the (few) cracks at the Gunks, and then get back to me. Some of those things are fine without (like Low Exposure), while others are *brutal*.

GO


boltdagunks


Feb 1, 2010, 11:39 AM
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slevin wrote:
1 set of Camp Tri-Cams - used to love them, they come super-handy in horizontal placements.
Get the newer white one . It held my fat ass on a 15 footer .

slevin wrote:
On the slings/draws issue - should I get actual quickdraws plus some long slings or just get a garden variety of slings and biners?
Be proud of your age go with tied slings . Skinny dyneema is for young whipper snappers!


slevin wrote:
What helmet is any good? I used to wear a hockey helmet, but it's gone right now.
I have an old Koho from the 80's I'll give you !

Kidding on the last two but serious with the white Tricam.


brokesomeribs


Feb 1, 2010, 12:27 PM
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slevin wrote:
I've been out for 6 years, had health problems. So I am back in the 5.10-5.11 range, slowly working through the moves, building up strength etc. Need to get rid of some flab too, i am like 10-12 lbs overwight.

If you've been out for 6 years with health problems and you're already back at Gunks 11's, you're welcome to use my rack whenever you want, as long as you'll lead Enduroman for me.

I used to climb in Moccasyms, but had to ditch them for long trad days. My feet would ache like you wouldn't believe after 9-12 pitches a day in the Gunks. Got a pair of Tradmasters. Not that impressed. Got a pair of Miuras - loved them, but they started delaminating at the toe and LS wouldn't honor the warranty. I'm looking at Galileo for my next shoe or maybe a pair of Evolvs.

As far as gear goes, my Gunks rack is:
- BD C4 Camalots: from .4 up to 4, with doubles of .75 and 1.
- BD C3 Camalots: 00 and 0
- Aliens: from black up to red (5 in total). I'm aware of the QC issues. I've tested all of mine. The tiny green held an 18 foot whipper on Apoplexy. I feel fine above them.
- Full set of WildCountry Stoppers
- Half set (middle sizes) of Kouba curve nuts
- Full set of Brassies
- Tricams from pink to blue (4 total)
- 10 shoulder length dyneema slings, tripled over, on lightweight wiregates
- 3 screamers with wiregates
- 20' spectra cordellete, 10' dyneema sling, three shoulder length runners
- couple extra lockers and wiregates for building anchors
- My "oh shit" locking biner with a Leatherman Micra, 2 pre-tied prussiks, a WC Ropeman, 2 maillons, and a Petzl E-lite
- Rope: Either a 70M Mammut Infinity 9.5 or double 60M Metolius Monster 7.8

I think I'll double up my C4's this coming season with Trango Max Cams to shave a little weight and to carry over to some more alpine pursuits.


west_by_god_virginia


Feb 1, 2010, 6:11 PM
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jrathfon wrote:
helmet: meteor, super light, super comfy, usually walk out with it on not even realizing it, though watch it while packing it on a plane, they are kind of fragile

Why would you want a helmet that you know is fragile?Pirate


bill413


Feb 1, 2010, 6:36 PM
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west_by_god_virginia wrote:
jrathfon wrote:
helmet: meteor, super light, super comfy, usually walk out with it on not even realizing it, though watch it while packing it on a plane, they are kind of fragile

Why would you want a helmet that you know is fragile?Pirate

Style.


jrathfon


Feb 1, 2010, 7:03 PM
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Re: [west_by_god_virginia] Gear? [In reply to]
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west_by_god_virginia wrote:
jrathfon wrote:
helmet: meteor, super light, super comfy, usually walk out with it on not even realizing it, though watch it while packing it on a plane, they are kind of fragile

Why would you want a helmet that you know is fragile?Pirate

welp the airlines are brutal, i always pack on my helmet, my buddy had his elios (hard shelled helmet) cracked in checked. the thing is slightly fragile as in wouldnt take a 10ft drop onto concrete inside a 50lb checked bag, but they are best for shock absorption AND they are FREAKING LIGHT, awesome for alpine, hauling tons of crap, and when you are close to weight limits at airports, or close to being able to lift your carry-on.

and STYLE points ;)


jrathfon


Feb 1, 2010, 7:06 PM
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Re: [boltdagunks] Gear? [In reply to]
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boltdagunks wrote:
slevin wrote:
1 set of Camp Tri-Cams - used to love them, they come super-handy in horizontal placements.
Get the newer white one . It held my fat ass on a 15 footer .

ehhhh, the white is an aid piece. by far the two most useful at the gunks are the pink and red. i would recommend one of each as a minimum for the gunks rack. i tend not to carry double tricams, but if i got more for the gunks it'd be black and brown at a toss up.


jrathfon


Feb 1, 2010, 7:10 PM
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Re: [slevin] Gear? [In reply to]
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slevin wrote:
currupt4130 wrote:
I don't wear a helmet, sorry.
I only wore a helmet when i would either be on R-rated routes or there was a chance a rock/pebble fall. I have also had a beautiful woman drop a large size Metolius TCU on my head as she was leading Shockleys Ceiling.

On a different gear-oriented question, do you guys tape-up for crack climbs or do it au naturelle?

climbing at the gunks without a helmet is suicide. i've witnessed two people hospitalized from rockfall dropped from parties above, and i mean baseballs, not big hunks.

and b) i beaned somebody off of the dangler with a #2, he made out ok, but definitely sent him to the hospital.

you're free to have your opinion on it, but i wouldn't be caught dead at the gunks without a helmet.

in addition to just rockfall, i can list 4 distinct BAD accidents from last season in new england, of leaders flipping and beaning themselves in the head, all of these accidents were made much worse due to lack of helmets and all of these accidents were on G or PG rated moderates. 4 more good reasons to wear a helmet.

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