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currupt4130
Jan 29, 2010, 1:27 PM
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So I have too many nuts. In the past I've just racked them all according to size, on four different biners. Sizes 1-3 got racked on one biner and never used. Sizes 4-7 got racked on another (about 9 or 10 nuts). Sizes 7-9 on another (about 6 nuts). And the biggest ones on another that never got used. At this point I owned two full sets plus a few booty nuts.
Now I've picked up a set of DMM offsets and I have to figure out what to do. I used to just grab the two middle sets of nuts and go, but I have a set of DMM Offsets and a set of DMM Peenuts to slide into it too.
I don't want to be scrambling for the offsets when I really need them, so I'm thinking about just putting them all on their own biner, but I also don't want to be carrying 3 biners of nuts up each route. So I'm also tempted to incorporate them into the other two biners and weed out some nuts and put them on a "spare nut biner."
Help? Suggestions? Please?
(This post was edited by currupt4130 on Jan 29, 2010, 1:28 PM)
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johnwesely
Jan 29, 2010, 1:37 PM
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I carry my nuts on three biners.
Micros on one.
Small to medium nuts on another.
Medium to large on a third.
I don't carry doubles.
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shoo
Jan 29, 2010, 1:54 PM
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Try any system to see if you like it. This is definitely in the realm of personal preference rather than clear advantage.
I have a set of DMM Wallnuts and a set of DMM offsets. The wallnuts go half on each of two 'biners, separated by size. The offsets go on their own 'biner.
It think it's obvious enough on looking at a potential placement that an offset might work when a regular nut probably would not not. In this case, it's convenient to have the offsets on their own.
On another note, if you are racking so much gear that you can't afford to put another carabiner on there for a set of nuts, you are probably racking too much gear to start. If you genuinely need that many nuts for a pitch, you probably don't need as much of the other gear (cams, etc.).
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currupt4130
Jan 29, 2010, 1:56 PM
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shoo wrote: Try any system to see if you like it. This is definitely in the realm of personal preference rather than clear advantage. I have a set of DMM Wallnuts and a set of DMM offsets. The wallnuts go half on each of two 'biners, separated by size. The offsets go on their own 'biner. It think it's obvious enough on looking at a potential placement that an offset might work when a regular nut probably would not not. In this case, it's convenient to have the offsets on their own. On another note, if you are racking so much gear that you can't afford to put another carabiner on there for a set of nuts, you are probably racking too much gear to start. If you genuinely need that many nuts for a pitch, you probably don't need as much of the other gear (cams, etc.).
You're probably right, I'm just very methodic about how I rack and changing anything about it is hard for me to do.
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dr_feelgood
Jan 29, 2010, 2:21 PM
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I'd throw micros on one that gets left in the bag, a single set of 4-9ish on one biner with the similar sized offsets, and then 10-13 and the bigger offsets on another. Maybe throw in an extra nut or two of sizes you like to repeat.
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climboard
Jan 29, 2010, 4:12 PM
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Normally I'd carry Stoppers from 4-11 on one biner and Offsets from 4-11 on another.
If I need micros I carry RPs and Offsets 2-5 on a biner and ditch the 4 and 5 stoppers.
If I need anything larger than a size 11 nut I use cams or Tricams.
The regular and offset nuts complement each other well and I've never needed doubles in either variety with this setup.
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malcolm777b
Jan 29, 2010, 8:07 PM
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I rack a full set of regular nuts on 2 biners, with every other size on a biner. I started doing that when I dropped a half set of nuts and couldn't protect with anything smaller than BD #9. Downside is, if the first nut chosen is not the right size, you have to reach for the other biner. Upside is, if you drop a biner of nuts, you still can protect the whole range.
I also rack a set of DMM Offsets on their own biner.
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currupt4130
Jan 29, 2010, 8:21 PM
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I never find myself carrying or placing anything bigger than a size 8. I think I'm gonna go with sizes 3-5 BD nuts and my Peenuts on one biner and sizes 6,7 and 8 of the offsets and BD nuts on another. Similar ranges on the same biners with different placement options for the ranges.
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caughtinside
Jan 29, 2010, 9:31 PM
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My nuts are racked directly below my cock.
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shimanilami
Jan 29, 2010, 11:19 PM
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currupt4130 wrote: ... I'm just very methodic about how I rack and changing anything about it is hard for me to do.
IMO, sticking to one approach only is a false economy. Different routes require different gear. If you always carry the same rack, you will inevitably run into situations where you have too much or too little gear.
For example, on alpine routes I carry two full sets of nuts. (I figure that if I have to bail, I'd rather leave behind nuts than cams. And they're light enough.) When I'm trad cragging, on the other hand, I may carry no nuts at all. (I'd rather place cams. They're quicker and easier to place and clean.) In the continuum from no nuts to double-sets, there's a lot of possibilities. I only decide how I'm going to rack 'em once I've decided how many I'm going to bring, not vice versa.
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EvilMonkey
Jan 30, 2010, 12:56 AM
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i find all this talk of racking nuts quite disconcerting.
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currupt4130
Jan 30, 2010, 7:17 AM
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shimanilami wrote: currupt4130 wrote: ... I'm just very methodic about how I rack and changing anything about it is hard for me to do. IMO, sticking to one approach only is a false economy. Different routes require different gear. If you always carry the same rack, you will inevitably run into situations where you have too much or too little gear. For example, on alpine routes I carry two full sets of nuts. (I figure that if I have to bail, I'd rather leave behind nuts than cams. And they're light enough.) When I'm trad cragging, on the other hand, I may carry no nuts at all. (I'd rather place cams. They're quicker and easier to place and clean.) In the continuum from no nuts to double-sets, there's a lot of possibilities. I only decide how I'm going to rack 'em once I've decided how many I'm going to bring, not vice versa.
I mostly just trad crag, but I see your point.
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mhix13
Jan 31, 2010, 1:59 PM
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I tend to place a lot of passive pro so I have 2 full sets of nuts and some micros. I do micros on 1 biner and my other 2 full sets on 1 biner each. If I drop them I have another full set. Plus if there are multiple placement options and the size nut I want to place I can't get to fit how I want it, I have the whole set in my hand and have the option to place any size anywhere that I can reach.
caveats: I'm less than a year into my trad. leading and haven't successfully led anything harder than 5.8.
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boltdagunks
Feb 1, 2010, 11:05 AM
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Just climb more often and it will all work itself out ....
REALLY !
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skinner
Feb 10, 2010, 11:31 AM
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old thread here, but I'm curious, where are you racking these nuts, on a shoulder rack, on your harness, ? What kind of biners are you racking them on?
I ask this because I have dedicated biners for racking wired nuts on that reduce the cluster-fvckage factor significantly. If you rack gear on your harness, you might want to try a few ice screw clippers, they not only have room for lots of wires (they hold 6 ice screws) but being attached to your harness in a semi-rigid fashion, it makes it really easy to get wires on/off with one hand (while your knees are knocking). You grab the wire you need, if there's other wires racked in front of this one, you slide these over the little hook thing on top of the clipper and it holds them out of the way allowing you to slid the one you need off of the gate. Depending on what clipper you get, you may need to file down the hook on top if you have any wires with small loops. I don't rack gear on my harness, so I don't do this, but I know people who do and it works pretty slick for them.
The one thing I hate.. is when someone passes me their rack and the wires are all piled on biners with notched gates!
Wired nuts + notched biners = cluster-fvckage.
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currupt4130
Feb 10, 2010, 11:39 AM
Post #19 of 20
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I rack my wires on BD Ovalwires on my harness. I like being able to pull a certain range of them off and figure out the exact one. Right now I have them racked by size, Bd #3-#5 and peenuts on one, #6-#8 with doubles and some offsets, #9 and other offsets on another. Probably 6-8 nuts on a biner?
The caritool idea isn't terrible, but I like having a range to mess with at my disposal rather than pulling off one at a time and having to put it back if it's wrong.
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lumineferusother
Feb 16, 2010, 10:12 AM
Post #20 of 20
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currupt4130 wrote: So I have too many nuts. In the past I've just racked them all according to size, on four different biners. Sizes 1-3 got racked on one biner and never used. Sizes 4-7 got racked on another (about 9 or 10 nuts). Sizes 7-9 on another (about 6 nuts). And the biggest ones on another that never got used. At this point I owned two full sets plus a few booty nuts. Now I've picked up a set of DMM offsets and I have to figure out what to do. I used to just grab the two middle sets of nuts and go, but I have a set of DMM Offsets and a set of DMM Peenuts to slide into it too. I don't want to be scrambling for the offsets when I really need them, so I'm thinking about just putting them all on their own biner, but I also don't want to be carrying 3 biners of nuts up each route. So I'm also tempted to incorporate them into the other two biners and weed out some nuts and put them on a "spare nut biner." Help? Suggestions? Please?
Not to knock your opinion or feelings but I wouldn't necessarily say that 2 sets (give or take some booty nuts) is too much...I have 4 full sets. Granted, I don't climb with all 4 sets dangling off my harness but I've used up to 2 1/2 - 3 sets on climbs where I carried only nuts and tricams. Also if you're banging out a Grade a hard Grade III or IV climb, using your nuts right off the bat in the beginning of your pitches and saving your active pro for when you're arms are pumped out of your skin can make or break your day. I also love the idea someone had said earlier in the post about carrying two sets on your harness and leaving a third in your bag...
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