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Climbing in Venezeula (Sport & Trad)
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theredmoose


Jul 13, 2008, 11:38 AM
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Climbing in Venezeula (Sport & Trad)  (South_and_Central_America: Venezuela)
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Hello there,

I was wondering if anyone can help me. I am looking to go climbing in Venezuela around Dec/Jan time frame. And I have a few questions:

How is the sport climbing there?
Any multi-pitch?
How about trad?
Are there guidebooks?

When is the best time to go?
What is the weather like in Dec/Jan?

Where are the best areas to go?
How far from the beaches is the climbing?

gracias
tm.


matarielz


Jul 28, 2008, 4:01 PM
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Re: [theredmoose] Climbing in Venezeula (Sport & Trad) [In reply to]
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- The sport climbing here is mostly short bouldery routes, 60 ft is a long route
- There are a few multi-pitch routes to the east side of the country and near there is a deep water soloing spot
- Not really much trad climbing here but you might find something if you look hard enough
- There are some guides in www.mutante.com.ve with contacts with local climbers and hotel
- The best time to come would be in march-april
-The weather in december-january might be a little too rainy to climb sometimes
- Te best areas to go would be "La Azulita" and "Las Puertas de Miraflores" but they are like 15-20 hours apart traveling in car
- "Las puertas de Miraflores" is nearest to the beach and DWS, and it has some multi-pitch long sport routes if that's what you're looking for
- The easiest and most comfortable climbing would be in Caracas because the crag is in the city itself so you don't have to travel much plus this crag has more climbers so every day there's people there but in other crags of the country you would have to contact local climbers
Good luck

You're welcome


greatgarbanzo


Oct 6, 2008, 8:10 AM
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Registered: Oct 12, 2001
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Re: [theredmoose] Climbing in Venezeula (Sport & Trad) [In reply to]
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Matarielz got everything rigth but one thing:

There are tons of great trad lines!!! must of them undone.

There are only a few trad climbers (not more than a dozen in the whole country) hence the missinformation.

Beeing a tradster myself I can pretty much point you to the rigth places.

Dec/Jan is great cool temperatures around the country (read around 25C or colder) but a bit rainy so is important to move around from rain protected areas to rain exposed areas whenever necesary.

My favorites are:

Manufractura 5.11d.
First pitch is 25mts of pure trad leading... the last 9mts beeing a splitter on a roof.
Second pitch is an 18mts traverse all trad, kind of runout super fun.

Maldito Duende 5.11a.
First pitch is a discontinuous finger crack on a kind of overhanging dihedral 20mts long. Second pitch is an 18mts long sport 5.10b climb that has some awesome exposure.

There is also a 12mts tall wall near my home with at least 15 different trad lines ranging from 5.9 to 5.10d.
(not to mention the sport lines!)

and well... I could keep on writing but dont have that much free time!

I own the only guide book that I have heard off in the whole country... writen by me... more than 300 routes descriptions, topos, how to get there info, etc... for my local area. Its all digital, very rough and outdated but it migth fit you!

Drop me a line with your trip planning! maybe we can hook up!


pyrfordpaul


Feb 1, 2010, 9:47 PM
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Registered: Feb 1, 2010
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Re: [greatgarbanzo] Climbing in Venezeula (Sport & Trad) [In reply to]
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Hi All,

I will be arriving in Venezuela on the 3rd of March 2010. I will be coming from Boa Vista in Brasil, and I`ll be flying out of caracas roughly 3 weeks later.

Can anyone give me tips on the best places for sport climbing and meeting climbing partners?

Yo puedo hablar un poco de espaņol. He estado practicando cuando viajo en Sur America desde noviembre.

THANKS! GRACIAS!
Paul


greatgarbanzo


Feb 2, 2010, 7:02 AM
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Re: [pyrfordpaul] Climbing in Venezeula (Sport & Trad) [In reply to]
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Hello!

I just checked on the other post on this thread and they are still quite accurate... You should read on that info and achieve your own conclusions.

The only thing I could add is that there is also a FaceBook group called ASCENSO that you can join just to meet tons of nice people.


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