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jt512


Feb 5, 2010, 6:15 PM
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Re: [eric_k] The self coached climber [In reply to]
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eric_k wrote:
I was looking at getting for this book, but the book used book store in town does not have this but it does have Training for Climbing by Eric Horst I think. Is SCC a better guide than training for climbing?

Yes.


Potts875


Feb 7, 2010, 1:28 PM
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Re: The self coached climber [In reply to]
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I WROTE.... I've pretty much realized that this book doesn't do ANYTHING for me. Theres no ego involved, but 99% of the stuff in this book I know from practice and I could care less about the theory behind it. I've never seen such a boring book about ANY sport. I was so psyched to get it in the mail and it's going to basically just sit on the dresser.

If anyone wants it just toss $25 in my paypal account and i'll send it this week. PM me if interested.

Here come the I dont no shit flames about me not knowing what I'm talking about. For newer climbers I'd go ALL THE WAY BACK to Performance Rock Climbing. I cant imagine a new climber being remotely interested in the way this book is written. I also cant imagine anyone that climbs harder than 5.11 doesnt have a firm understanding of the techniques discussed in this book.


jt512


Feb 7, 2010, 1:39 PM
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Re: [Potts875] The self coached climber [In reply to]
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Potts875 wrote:
In reply to:
I WROTE.... I've pretty much realized that this book doesn't do ANYTHING for me. Theres no ego involved, but 99% of the stuff in this book I know from practice and I could care less about the theory behind it. I've never seen such a boring book about ANY sport. I was so psyched to get it in the mail and it's going to basically just sit on the dresser.

If anyone wants it just toss $25 in my paypal account and i'll send it this week. PM me if interested.

Here come the I dont no shit flames about me not knowing what I'm talking about. For newer climbers I'd go ALL THE WAY BACK to Performance Rock Climbing. I cant imagine a new climber being remotely interested in the way this book is written. I also cant imagine anyone that climbs harder than 5.11 doesnt have a firm understanding of the techniques discussed in this book.

I was climbing harder than 5.11 and had absolutely no notion of the concepts in SCC. The book completely changed the way I think about climbing, movement, and training.

Jay


Potts875


Feb 7, 2010, 2:13 PM
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Re: [jt512] The self coached climber [In reply to]
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In reply to:
I had absolutely no notion of the concepts in SCC

Really Jay? No notion? What the hell were you doing before the book then? You didnt know COG, inside and outside flags, back steps, drop knees and the way these all changed the way you stayed on the rock.

You weren't aware of proper footwork, silent feet or glued hands? You werent aware of your subtle movements and why they worked? Momentum? Lock offs? I find that hard to believe that someone climbing 5.11 or higher got there by luck.


(This post was edited by Potts875 on Feb 7, 2010, 2:16 PM)


jt512


Feb 7, 2010, 3:03 PM
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Re: [Potts875] The self coached climber [In reply to]
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Potts875 wrote:
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I had absolutely no notion of the concepts in SCC

Really Jay? No notion? What the hell were you doing before the book then? You didnt know COG, inside and outside flags, back steps, drop knees and the way these all changed the way you stayed on the rock.

You weren't aware of proper footwork, silent feet or glued hands? You werent aware of your subtle movements and why they worked? Momentum? Lock offs? I find that hard to believe that someone climbing 5.11 or higher got there by luck.

I would estimate that before the book was published less than one American 5.12 climber in 100 was aware of the movement initiation concepts in the book. I didn't learn to climb 5.12 by "luck"; I learned to climb 5.12 inefficiently.

Jay


lena_chita
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Feb 7, 2010, 4:16 PM
Post #31 of 38 (2672 views)
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Re: [Potts875] The self coached climber [In reply to]
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Potts875 wrote:
In reply to:
I WROTE.... I've pretty much realized that this book doesn't do ANYTHING for me. Theres no ego involved, but 99% of the stuff in this book I know from practice and I could care less about the theory behind it. I've never seen such a boring book about ANY sport. I was so psyched to get it in the mail and it's going to basically just sit on the dresser.

If anyone wants it just toss $25 in my paypal account and i'll send it this week. PM me if interested.

Here come the I dont no shit flames about me not knowing what I'm talking about. For newer climbers I'd go ALL THE WAY BACK to Performance Rock Climbing. I cant imagine a new climber being remotely interested in the way this book is written. I also cant imagine anyone that climbs harder than 5.11 doesnt have a firm understanding of the techniques discussed in this book.

Well, by the time I picked up SCC, I definitely had an understanding of what flagging, backstepping, and other basic techniques were. So the chapters and parts of the DVD describing these techniques were not particularly novel.

However, while I didn't need the book to tell me about pivoting/turning, flagging ,and other basics, the COG and movement initiation discussion was useful to me because no one else talked about it from that viewpoint, and it made sense to me (and a big difference in my climbing). And also, while I knew about a lot of techniques, reading the book made me practice them in a more regimented fasion, and again, I believe it was beneficial to me.

Also, I really enjoyed reading the chaprers YOU refer to as boring because I was interested in the background of WHY you need to train particuar things, and how. Different attitudes to learning, I guess.

And finally, the thing I found most useful in practical terms was the chapters that outlined the training plans. There is a difference betwen just knowing that there are such things as 4x4s, or laps, or threshold bouldering, or what not, and putting them together in some sort of intelligent training plan.


ceebo


Feb 7, 2010, 5:08 PM
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Re: [Potts875] The self coached climber [In reply to]
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Potts875 wrote:
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I had absolutely no notion of the concepts in SCC

Really Jay? No notion? What the hell were you doing before the book then? You didnt know COG, inside and outside flags, back steps, drop knees and the way these all changed the way you stayed on the rock.

You weren't aware of proper footwork, silent feet or glued hands? You werent aware of your subtle movements and why they worked? Momentum? Lock offs? I find that hard to believe that someone climbing 5.11 or higher got there by luck.

I can put my hand up to that. I climbed with 1 person who knew as much as me about it.. befor we could say boo we was having real decent attempts at 7a's. I never actually realised the moves i was doing had names untill i visited this site.. and as cocky as it may sound i just figured i/we had made them up for each paticular route.

Im looking forward to seing whats in this book and im hoping very much it will boost us into the 7's

I use to think i had good technique but i got shown a trick or 2 not long ago and i realised i have nothing but brute strength, and its not enuf


(This post was edited by ceebo on Feb 7, 2010, 5:12 PM)


Potts875


Feb 7, 2010, 8:56 PM
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Re: [jt512] The self coached climber [In reply to]
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jt512 wrote:
I would estimate that before the book was published less than one American 5.12 climber in 100 was aware of the movement initiation concepts in the book. I didn't learn to climb 5.12 by "luck"; I learned to climb 5.12 inefficiently. Jay


1% of people climbing 5.12 are/were unaware of these concepts before the book? That's just a silly statement. Pull out some old vids before the book was written then tell me if you still think thats true.

Now I understand that everyone climbs 5.12 now but it's still a difficult grade. IMHO I think that if you get there without the tools then breaking into 13 is going to be extremely hard. With that being said I think this is a great instruction book for teachers. I wish I had something like this to develop lesson plans and such when I ran classes.


While we're on it....Whats the deal with Warriors Way?


codral


Feb 20, 2013, 6:03 PM
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Re: The self coached climber [In reply to]
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Sorry to bump an old thread here but...

Did anyone ever find any website that sells the epub or pdf for this book? Or an app?

There's a app out by hague but it's for redpointing, soo yeh.

I really don't want to buy it on paper if I don't absolutely have to... Just so damn inconvenient!


danabart


Feb 20, 2013, 8:15 PM
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Re: [codral] The self coached climber [In reply to]
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Dave MacLeod's book is very good. It doesn't have illustrations, photos, and detailed training plans, and some people find the style a bit inaccesible. But I think that MacLeod provides the best answers to the question people are asking - how do I improve.


codral


Feb 20, 2013, 8:35 PM
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Re: [danabart] The self coached climber [In reply to]
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Excellent, thanks, I'll try find the epub... Failing that I'll just buy the SCC book and go old school, so much harder to read hard copy books, my phone and tablet I always have on me


petsfed


Apr 12, 2013, 12:43 PM
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Re: [Potts875] The self coached climber [In reply to]
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Potts875 wrote:
In reply to:
I had absolutely no notion of the concepts in SCC

Really Jay? No notion? What the hell were you doing before the book then? You didnt know COG, inside and outside flags, back steps, drop knees and the way these all changed the way you stayed on the rock.

You weren't aware of proper footwork, silent feet or glued hands? You werent aware of your subtle movements and why they worked? Momentum? Lock offs? I find that hard to believe that someone climbing 5.11 or higher got there by luck.

To echo what Lena and Jay are saying, there's a world of difference between having a list of trick moves that work in this scenario or that, and having a codified "this is what you need to do every time, and each of those moves is just a consequence of that need" approach. I have always been a techy climber, but the Self-Coached Climber not just changed the way I climb, it changed the way I looked at routes, and (as a result) the way I would set routes.

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