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frodolf
Feb 7, 2010, 3:27 PM
Post #26 of 31
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Registered: Oct 1, 2006
Posts: 81
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I often funk test heads and other pro (nuts, pitons, the occasional shallow cam placement). I think it is an important skill to have as an aid climber. After a while you learn how hard to funk and what forces are accumulated. I can determine, pretty accurately I think, how hard I should hit to test a piece for body weight, and then for a little bit more than body weight. It can be really good to have this skill when on a traverse or on wildly overhanging stuff where it can be hard to bounce test safely/easily.
I don't use a wire. I use a nylon sling as a funkness device, with tied loops for biners at each end. Works great, is cheaper, and ads just a little bit of stretch, which is good. Me thinks.
One should be careful with the smallest heads, though. They break easily. Don't funk them if it can be avoided! The middle siezes to bigger you can funk pretty darn hard. But don't give them more than, say, 4-5 hits tops as the wire have a tendency for creeping at every stroke. The same rule applies for bounce testing heads, BTW. What will break first, if you've done a decent job placing it, is the wire, leaving a dead head. And eeeverybody hates them – so take it easy!
M
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rightarmbad
Feb 8, 2010, 10:50 AM
Post #28 of 31
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Registered: Mar 22, 2005
Posts: 218
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Yes, but there may be too much mass in the device to catch a peak at low levels correctly
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skinner
Feb 10, 2010, 5:14 PM
Post #29 of 31
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Registered: Nov 1, 2004
Posts: 1747
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quiteatingmysteak wrote: Funkness devices have broken biners, you should try to avoid testing fixed heads with them, and I've pulled the wire out on at least one occasion. You can get big forces.
I agree that funking is not a good alternative to bounce testing, but I assumed this was just about testing the holding strength of heads, more for curiosity sake.
Even if that is the case, I can't imagine how accurate this is with so many variables in each placement, not to mention variables in the heads themselves.
The only time I do anything funk-like to a head, is when removing them, and then it's an outward funk anyway.
All that said.. I'm always amazed what heads *will*(thankfully) hold!
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Lazlo
Feb 11, 2010, 1:38 AM
Post #30 of 31
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Registered: Nov 14, 2007
Posts: 5079
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skinner wrote: quiteatingmysteak wrote: Funkness devices have broken biners, you should try to avoid testing fixed heads with them, and I've pulled the wire out on at least one occasion. You can get big forces. I agree that funking is not a good alternative to bounce testing, but I assumed this was just about testing the holding strength of heads, more for curiosity sake. Even if that is the case, I can't imagine how accurate this is with so many variables in each placement, not to mention variables in the heads themselves. The only time I do anything funk-like to a head, is when removing them, and then it's an outward funk anyway. All that said.. I'm always amazed what heads *will* (thankfully) hold!
Correct. I made my own heads and just wanted to see what kind of abuse they could take.
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Lazlo
Feb 11, 2010, 1:40 AM
Post #31 of 31
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Registered: Nov 14, 2007
Posts: 5079
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Lazlo wrote: skinner wrote: quiteatingmysteak wrote: Funkness devices have broken biners, you should try to avoid testing fixed heads with them, and I've pulled the wire out on at least one occasion. You can get big forces. I agree that funking is not a good alternative to bounce testing, but I assumed this was just about testing the holding strength of heads, more for curiosity sake. Even if that is the case, I can't imagine how accurate this is with so many variables in each placement, not to mention variables in the heads themselves. The only time I do anything funk-like to a head, is when removing them, and then it's an outward funk anyway. All that said.. I'm always amazed what heads *will* (thankfully) hold! Correct. I made my own heads and just wanted to see what kind of abuse they could take.
I haven't had one break yet either. I've been quite amazed.
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