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Carnage
Feb 10, 2010, 5:38 PM
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Registered: Mar 27, 2007
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Im thinking about heading down there in march, but i cant find any night time temp data for the area. how cold does it get at night during the middle of march? is precip possibly a problem? also what routes should a 5.11 sport/5.9 trad climber do? (im still a gear noob. let me know routes that have easy gear but are harder) edit to add: i hate bouldering. Dont try to sell me on boulders
(This post was edited by Carnage on Feb 10, 2010, 5:38 PM)
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vinniemazz
Feb 10, 2010, 6:01 PM
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Registered: Oct 9, 2006
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Here's a graph ofthe "average temps" in Lake Lure/Chimney Rock... that being said, the weather is pretty dang unpredictable this year! http://www.weather.com/...bottomnav_undeclared One good way to explore the area is start at the cereal wall (far right crag) and work left day after day. Cereal wall has great trad (definitely get on Frosted Flake for a good 5.9 trad line). Good trad lines up to 5.9: Frosted Flake, Chicken Head City, Comatose, Fruit Loops, Granola... Some good sport routes in the 5.10/5.11 range - Fine Line, Drivin and Cryin, Lakeview, Gunboat Diplomacy, Flappin in the Breeze, 7 yr itch, captain crunch, Enjoy the bald...
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rock_fencer
Feb 10, 2010, 6:54 PM
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Registered: Jan 7, 2005
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if your down there and need a partner, shoot me a PM. Im at the same level as you, maybe trad a tad more stout. Cereal buttress would be the place to go for gear lines, flakeview area has some nice sport lines as previously mentioned. Also great bouldering which i have never done. cheers T
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clemsonscooby
Feb 12, 2010, 2:58 PM
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Registered: Dec 21, 2006
Posts: 190
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Test Pilots 11c, Born Again 10c, Rocket Science 10c are a few others that are great. The temps will be fine if you have a good bag. It could range from teens to 40's at night depending. It has been an unusually wet year, so expect rain.
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johnwesely
Feb 12, 2010, 3:11 PM
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Registered: Jun 13, 2006
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The bald is warm as long as the sun is out. Rain may be an issue. Frosted flake is so much fun. Don't pass it up, and make sure that you lead it. It is great. Granola is super nice, especially if you do the second pitch finger crack roof to the right. If you want specific beta, you can PM me.
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colatownkid
Feb 12, 2010, 4:31 PM
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Registered: Nov 27, 2007
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vinniemazz wrote: Here's a graph ofthe "average temps" in Lake Lure/Chimney Rock... that being said, the weather is pretty dang unpredictable this year! http://www.weather.com/...bottomnav_undeclared One good way to explore the area is start at the cereal wall (far right crag) and work left day after day. Cereal wall has great trad (definitely get on Frosted Flake for a good 5.9 trad line). Good trad lines up to 5.9: Frosted Flake, Chicken Head City, Comatose, Fruit Loops, Granola... Some good sport routes in the 5.10/5.11 range - Fine Line, Drivin and Cryin, Lakeview, Gunboat Diplomacy, Flappin in the Breeze, 7 yr itch, captain crunch, Enjoy the bald... Second all of the above as awesome climbs. Overnight lows can range from 15-20 to 40-45 depending on the season. (I'd guess this one's gonna be on the colder side.) The bald is south facing and known for being warm and drying quickly. If it rains in the morning and gets sunny at all, you can rest assured something will be climbable in the afternoon. "Granola" (5.8+) is notorious as an ankle-breaker due to the block you start on. Make sure you're solid at the grade. (If you climb 5.9, I assume you should be fine though.) Just a heads up. I've known a couple climbers who were solid at 5.10 and took the route too casually leading to a fall and a broken ankle (or two). If you're looking to push your limits, I recommend "Zydygo" (5.10c). The crux is the initial layback at the start, which protects very well. Then you pull a small roof. As long as you find the jug, you're pretty much set from there. I don't know how comfortable you are at 5.11 on bolts, but "Southern Boys Don't Wear Plaid" (5.11b) is a well-protected 5.11 gear route that climbs like a sport route. The meat of it is a crack through a roof so it protects well. However, you can do the whole thing with face holds. Also, while you're at the Flakeview area, if you're looking for a casual warm-up or finish route, I like to link up "Bear Hunt" (5.7 sport) with "The Gift" (5.8 mixed) or "Gift Certificate" (5.8 mixed). Both of the mixed lines start from ledge at the top of "Bear Hunt" and are fun, casual climbs that go on four bolts and a set of singles.
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