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Reading to climb Big?
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Alphaboth


Feb 15, 2010, 10:34 AM
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Reading to climb Big?
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How do you know when your ready to give el cap a shot?


csproul


Feb 15, 2010, 11:30 AM
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Re: [Alphaboth] Reading to climb Big? [In reply to]
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When you don't have to ask!


coastal_climber


Feb 15, 2010, 12:06 PM
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Re: [csproul] Reading to climb Big? [In reply to]
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csproul wrote:
When you don't have to ask!

That pretty much sums it up....


johnwesely


Feb 15, 2010, 12:12 PM
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Re: [Alphaboth] Reading to climb Big? [In reply to]
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How do you know when to make a confusing thread title?


coastal_climber


Feb 15, 2010, 12:14 PM
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Re: [johnwesely] Reading to climb Big? [In reply to]
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johnwesely wrote:
How do you know when to make a confusing thread title?

When your alphaboth?


johnwesely


Feb 15, 2010, 12:34 PM
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Re: [coastal_climber] Reading to climb Big? [In reply to]
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coastal_climber wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
How do you know when to make a confusing thread title?

When your alphaboth?

But he wasn't always alphaboth.


swoopee


Feb 16, 2010, 7:38 AM
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Re: [Alphaboth] Reading to climb Big? [In reply to]
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I can climb 5.5 in the gym, so El Cap should be easy. I think I'll go climb it next week. Laugh


mrtristan


Feb 16, 2010, 9:27 AM
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Re: [Alphaboth] Reading to climb Big? [In reply to]
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When you're a very experienced trad climber, when you know how to place gear, when you've done a ton of multi pitch stuff, when you're not scared, when you know you won't get yourself, your partner, or anyone else hurt or killed, when you've done smaller walls, realized that you can stomach slowly creeping up a massive wall, when you know what to do if something goes wrong, when you have lots of gear, when you don' t have to ask, when you've just gone through some sort of trauma in your life, when you just get laid off and happen to have some extra time, when you've just inherited a bunch of money and are willing to pay some Camp 4 dirtbag 50 bucks to haul you up, when you've got a really nice camera so you can take wicked awesome pics of the first three pitches (before you bail, that is), and when you've got a good weather forecast, when you've got more balls than brains.


Partner euroford


Feb 16, 2010, 10:07 AM
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Re: [mrtristan] Reading to climb Big? [In reply to]
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really a worthwhile topic, and one worth some contemplation.

so really "when am i ready to actually try a wall?"

you'll need to have some fundamentals in order obviously. leading, jugging, hauling, BAILING...

unless you plan to solo, you'll need to have a solid partner worked out.

you'll need to have the requisite gear. its allot of crap, so either a bunch of money or some serious creativity will be in order.

you'll have a lot of logistics to get in order, from wall stuff like eating sleeping and pooping, to travel stuff and info on approaches and routes and topos.

the hard part will be getting stoked, and having a stoked partner. way in advance to take care of the logistics and practice, and in the moment to haul the pigs to the base and actually sack up to leave the ground.

then you got nothing else to do but go for it.

somewhere between the drunken idea that you should climb a wall, and the top of said wall, you might bail. if so, it wasn't your time, for some reason you weren't ready. it may not be your fault, the weather, or your partner, or your POS car could go wrong, that stuff happens. you'll have to get back on the horse and try again, or not.

if no bailage occurs, and after some toil you find yourself on top of something, well by golly i guess you really were ready.


graniteboy


Feb 16, 2010, 4:29 PM
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Re: [Alphaboth] Reading to climb Big? [In reply to]
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This topic has been discussed to death repeatedly in here. Go over to supertopo and look at Macnamara's training tick list for becoming a big kid wall climber.


Partner euroford


Feb 17, 2010, 1:12 PM
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Re: [graniteboy] Reading to climb Big? [In reply to]
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graniteboy wrote:
This topic has been discussed to death repeatedly in here. Go over to supertopo and look at Macnamara's training tick list for becoming a big kid wall climber.

i see your point, but this forum is boring as fuk, so every now and then its worth a shot to at least -try- to talk about climbing, or we might as well all go back over to supertopo and start a political discussion.


guangzhou


Feb 23, 2010, 6:21 PM
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Re: [euroford] Reading to climb Big? [In reply to]
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The choice is your really. If you want to climb it and think you can, go for it. Feeling a bit intimidated by the wall is a good thing and normal.

Some people can be ready after one year of climbing, even without multi-pitch experience. Other can take 20 years and not be ready.

If you can lead 5.8/5.9 on gear consistently, the rest of the skills are easy to learn. Hauling is hard work, but after you haul a few pitches and read a couple books/articles on how to make it more efficient, you'll be fine. As you go up, you improve your technique.

Jumaring is hard, just need to find your flow. A few pitched into the route, you'll have it down.

A route like the Nose on Elcap is more about desire and mental stamina.


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