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punk_rocker333
Feb 17, 2010, 10:37 PM
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What should be included in a basic pin rack for alpine routes? I will mostly be climbing on Cascade granite and have no experience with pitons.
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summerprophet
Feb 17, 2010, 11:15 PM
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punk_rocker333 wrote: What should be included in a basic pin rack for alpine routes? I will mostly be climbing on Cascade granite and have no experience with pitons.
If you are just doing old standards, you won't need pins.
If you are talking winter or first ascents, KB's and a few midsize LA's should be all you would ever need.
Get experience with pins before you set them in the alpine.
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graniteboy
Feb 17, 2010, 11:52 PM
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On routes where I expect that a pin or 3 might be needed (Primarily winter ascents, because sometimes you just plain need a pin in those conditions) I tend to take a KB, a couple of leeper Zs (or arrows, but leepers are lighter), and maybe a sawed off 1/2 or 5/8 angle and maybe a sawed 3/4 angle. Most summer alpine rock in the lower 48 doesn't really need any pins though.
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punk_rocker333
Feb 18, 2010, 1:00 AM
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Sorry, I should've been more specific. I am thinking winter conditions on mixed routes like the Triple Couloirs on Dragon Tail. Possibly some FA's in the Wallowa Range in Orgeon. Mostly snow and ice routes but with a little bit of easy mixed ground. Only clean climbing during the summer for me. Thanks for the advice.
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builttospill
Feb 18, 2010, 3:13 PM
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How does one go about "getting experience with pins" before using them in alpine terrain? I only ask because I bought a few a couple years ago with the understanding that I might need them at some point on alpine routes. I read some about placing them, then hammered some into some choss in a nearby canyon, but I'm not sure how else or what constitutes "experience." I mean, is that semi-sufficient? I feel like I can kind of tell what a good placement is now (i.e. the sound it makes going in, among other things), but I've never placed one on lead and I've sure as hell never fallen on one.
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altelis
Feb 19, 2010, 4:22 AM
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builttospill wrote: How does one go about "getting experience with pins" before using them in alpine terrain? I only ask because I bought a few a couple years ago with the understanding that I might need them at some point on alpine routes. I read some about placing them, then hammered some into some choss in a nearby canyon, but I'm not sure how else or what constitutes "experience." I mean, is that semi-sufficient? I feel like I can kind of tell what a good placement is now (i.e. the sound it makes going in, among other things), but I've never placed one on lead and I've sure as hell never fallen on one.
I'm in a similar boat as you. I was told by a mentor that road cuts make really easily accessed rocks with lots of cracks as a good place to practice...
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quiteatingmysteak
Feb 19, 2010, 4:45 AM
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altelis wrote: builttospill wrote: How does one go about "getting experience with pins" before using them in alpine terrain? I only ask because I bought a few a couple years ago with the understanding that I might need them at some point on alpine routes. I read some about placing them, then hammered some into some choss in a nearby canyon, but I'm not sure how else or what constitutes "experience." I mean, is that semi-sufficient? I feel like I can kind of tell what a good placement is now (i.e. the sound it makes going in, among other things), but I've never placed one on lead and I've sure as hell never fallen on one. I'm in a similar boat as you. I was told by a mentor that road cuts make really easily accessed rocks with lots of cracks as a good place to practice...
Try zenyatta mondatta.
Seriously though, if you have an area nearby that has some choss, take an aider and practice placements. a crashpad wouldnt be a bad idea too, or at least a good boot, because you dont want to slam your foot against a rock. Just try different types of placements, see how leverage affects them, yadda yadda.
Realize though that the rock may not be the same as where you are going. Softer, harder, its different, so keep that in mind. Hopefully someone with good nailing experience on hard routes will chime in, I am just good at bailing :(
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altelis
Feb 19, 2010, 4:47 AM
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quiteatingmysteak wrote: altelis wrote: builttospill wrote: How does one go about "getting experience with pins" before using them in alpine terrain? I only ask because I bought a few a couple years ago with the understanding that I might need them at some point on alpine routes. I read some about placing them, then hammered some into some choss in a nearby canyon, but I'm not sure how else or what constitutes "experience." I mean, is that semi-sufficient? I feel like I can kind of tell what a good placement is now (i.e. the sound it makes going in, among other things), but I've never placed one on lead and I've sure as hell never fallen on one. I'm in a similar boat as you. I was told by a mentor that road cuts make really easily accessed rocks with lots of cracks as a good place to practice... Try zenyatta mondatta. Seriously though, if you have an area nearby that has some choss, take an aider and practice placements. a crashpad wouldnt be a bad idea too, or at least a good boot, because you dont want to slam your foot against a rock. Just try different types of placements, see how leverage affects them, yadda yadda. Realize though that the rock may not be the same as where you are going. Softer, harder, its different, so keep that in mind. Hopefully someone with good nailing experience on hard routes will chime in, I am just good at bailing :(
Hehe. Same here. Just play to your strengths, I always say. Hehe.
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marde
Feb 19, 2010, 6:47 PM
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Some of the biggest peckers and a sawed off ice hook
http://www.dmmclimbing.com/...nid=101&ngroup=3
which is basically a even bigger pecker.
These pins have the advantage not to be leveres ou of the rock instead they're pulled in.
So they work even in choss or cracks filled with frozen dirt.
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