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causticfluids
Feb 20, 2010, 9:08 PM
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A while back I used one of my climbing webbings to build a slackline. My friends and I had tightened things pretty well, but we couldn't get the tension high enough to actually slackline more than a few feet from the anchors. (We couldn't get high off the ground.)
I am wondering, with the strong forces put on the webbing, is the webbing still safe for climbing anchors? It's been eating at me and with winter lifting soon, I wanted to see what the opinion was. Thanks for any help.
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coastal_climber
Feb 20, 2010, 9:10 PM
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No.
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daggerx
Feb 20, 2010, 10:27 PM
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over all I would not make a normal thing out of it, but I have used it when needed.But then again I also allways back up my stuff.
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coastal_climber
Feb 20, 2010, 10:43 PM
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daggerx wrote: over all I would not make a normal thing out of it, but I have used it when needed.But then again I also allways back up my stuff.
Why use something you don't have 100% trust in?
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Samiam277
Feb 20, 2010, 11:55 PM
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I wouldn't use it. Keep it as a dedicated slackline. Webbing is cheap and not worth the risk. A lot of people will tell you to keep dedicated carabiners for slacking too, though I feel this is overkill.
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slacklinejoe
Feb 21, 2010, 5:22 PM
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causticfluids wrote: My friends and I had tightened things pretty well, but we couldn't get the tension high enough to actually slackline more than a few feet from the anchors.
If you couldn't get very far from your anchors, you didn't tighten it well.
The physics of the sport have been documented and tested. For a quick and dirty calculator on loads, I wrote one and posted it on the Slackline Express Slackline Force Calculator
Let's take a look at the physics of what you just did:
Say you set up a 20 foot line that sagged like mad of 5 feet in the middle (but you couldn't get it to sag that far because it was too loose/low for the height you rigged). Assuming you weight lets say 170 lbs.
The force applied to both ends your line was only 190 lbs if distributed evenly. Since you weren't in the middle, lets guess that 90% of that load was placed on one end, that yeilds a load of 340 lbs placed solely on the end you stood on (this is unreasonably high, but we'll use it anyway for a large margin of safety).
Presumably, you are probably using 4,000 or 4,500 lb tensile test webbing, you only loaded less than 10% of it's overall rating.
The next question is for you: if you put 340 lbs of load on your webbing, do you trust it to continue climbing on it?
Alternatively, if you and your buddies had set up a 40 foot long line (fairly common length) had two people stand up on it while playing around and pulled it tight with someone's pickup the physics would be: length 40 ft, sag, 2.5 feet, combined ofweight 340 lbs. That calculates to a load of 1370 evenly distributed with realistic peak loads while you and your hypotehtical friend are bouncing around of 2,000 lbs.
You then reached 1/2 the tensile strength of your webbing and produced a load high enough to permanently change the shock absorping capabilities of your webbing. Do you still climb on it?
The cost of 50 feet of webbing is around $15 retail price or $20 if you bought it with a sewn loop.
Hardware is a completely different thing, it doesn't have the same load balancing capabilities that stretchy webbing has. Many carabiners have been broken or permanently warped while slacklining - we strongly discourage reusing recreational climbing hardware (primarly aluminum carabiners).
(This post was edited by slacklinejoe on Feb 21, 2010, 5:27 PM)
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majid_sabet
Feb 21, 2010, 6:35 PM
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using slack-lining stuff for climbing is like trying to go down on a whore
you never know what you may get next
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lidosis
Feb 21, 2010, 7:57 PM
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coastal_climber wrote: Why use something you don't have 100% trust in?
I think someone is in for a rude surprise one of these days, cause sometimes, shit goes wrong.
OP: Sounds like you didn't really get a line up, just hung some stuff in the tree. Your slings are fine, get some new ones for the line in the future, and learn how to rig a line.
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coastal_climber
Feb 21, 2010, 9:40 PM
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lidosis wrote: coastal_climber wrote: Why use something you don't have 100% trust in? I think someone is in for a rude surprise one of these days, cause sometimes, shit goes wrong.
Way to take my comment out of context. Obviously you want to have trust in your equipment before you take it climbing.
And yes, shit does happen.
(This post was edited by coastal_climber on Feb 21, 2010, 9:44 PM)
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areyoumydude
Mar 22, 2010, 4:52 PM
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majid_sabet wrote: using slack-lining stuff for climbing is like trying to go down on a whore you never know what you may get next
A tweaked neck?
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USnavy
Mar 23, 2010, 12:42 PM
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majid_sabet wrote: using slack-lining stuff for climbing is like trying to go down on a whore you never know what you may get next
(This post was edited by USnavy on Mar 23, 2010, 12:43 PM)
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Darwin said yes and Majid is looking for the next headline. just sayin.. 
