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Getting ready for first lead of the season?
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dovyman


Feb 20, 2010, 3:23 PM
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Getting ready for first lead of the season?
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I only started leading trad last year, but I haven't climbed outside since about November as it's been so damn cold and it's tough for me to get away to warmer weather because of work.

What do you guys do to get ready for your first lead of the season? I'm not so much talking about physical conditioning - I've been training consistently throughout the winter - more talking about refreshing myself regarding gear / anchors /etc.


johnwesely


Feb 20, 2010, 3:33 PM
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I just do it.


cornstateclimber


Feb 20, 2010, 5:20 PM
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me too. i dont get much opportunity to climb much anymore but when i do i just get tied in go!


c4c


Feb 20, 2010, 6:37 PM
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I usually try to make my first climb of the season well below my comfort level or a route that i have already lead before.


vegastradguy


Feb 20, 2010, 6:53 PM
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c4c wrote:
I usually try to make my first climb of the season well below my comfort level or a route that i have already lead before.

+1


dan2see


Feb 20, 2010, 7:04 PM
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johnwesely wrote:
I just do it.

Yeah, that's exactly what you gotta do.

But don't forget that, on your first outing in the spring, you are full of energy and enthusiasm, but also you are basically out of shape.

So look for easier routes, make sure you're prepared and backed-up, and plan to bail.

Just the first day out. Then -- really go for it!


chrisJoosse


Feb 20, 2010, 7:48 PM
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For anchors, find a place (mine is in my garage) and build anchors with whatever you've got- cordolette, runners, your climbing rope. For extra credit, disconnect one of the legs of your anchor (simulate a piece pulling) and watch what happens to the system.

I find that building and troubleshooting anchors (what happens if I do or don't put a slip-limiter here? what happens if this piece pulls? etc) provides a practical understanding of how they work and how they will tolerate different failure scenarios.

For inspiration and ideas on different ways of building anchors I've been a fan of Leubben's book on the subject, but I've heard Long's book recommended in glowing terms- not having read Long's book, I won't recommend one over the other, but I will recommend looking to good sources like these.

so... practice. Read. Get your buddies to look at your work. Look at theirs. If you're like me, this will just fuel your stoke to get out on the rock again.


lofstromc


Feb 20, 2010, 9:15 PM
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I think, the best way is to start the season at one lower grade than your highest grade at the end of last year. Personally, I hope that I've been climbing long enough that I won't need to review the basic skills in my garage or climb some super easy thing just for the sake of warming up and remembering WTF I should already know.
I'd say pick some 1 pitch climb that you were aspiring to the end of last year and assault it. Sew it up!
Bail if you have to, but make sure you fall on gear at least once!


(This post was edited by lofstromc on Feb 20, 2010, 9:19 PM)


rschap


Feb 21, 2010, 9:22 AM
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There’s a season? I get ready for climbing in the spring by climbing in the winter. I took a couple years off and just started climbing again in November.


notapplicable


Feb 21, 2010, 10:26 AM
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dovyman wrote:
I only started leading trad last year, but I haven't climbed outside since about November as it's been so damn cold and it's tough for me to get away to warmer weather because of work.

What do you guys do to get ready for your first lead of the season? I'm not so much talking about physical conditioning - I've been training consistently throughout the winter - more talking about refreshing myself regarding gear / anchors /etc.

You may be overthinking things a bit and could psyche yourself out as a result. Just pick something easy, take your time and triple check everything. Repeat until you find your groove.


bill413


Feb 21, 2010, 2:05 PM
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I sort through my gear - make sure stuff is marked & working smoothly. That tends to get me thinking about some of it.

I agree with not jumping on something that was at your limit at the end of last season - start easier & dial things in again.
Make sure your belayer will have patience with you - you'll probably be a bit slower getting the kinks out.


Adk


Feb 21, 2010, 4:01 PM
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I climb something that I have wired and just plug away.


gerbil


Feb 21, 2010, 4:02 PM
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put harness on, grab gear sling, tie in, climb, repeat


jeepnphreak


Feb 21, 2010, 4:43 PM
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dovyman wrote:
I only started leading trad last year, but I haven't climbed outside since about November as it's been so damn cold and it's tough for me to get away to warmer weather because of work.

What do you guys do to get ready for your first lead of the season? I'm not so much talking about physical conditioning - I've been training consistently throughout the winter - more talking about refreshing myself regarding gear / anchors /etc.

My advice is to go back to a route that you have already climbed. One that you feel a bit of comfort with and just jump on it an lead it up.


notapplicable


Feb 21, 2010, 5:59 PM
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jeepnphreak wrote:
dovyman wrote:
I only started leading trad last year, but I haven't climbed outside since about November as it's been so damn cold and it's tough for me to get away to warmer weather because of work.

What do you guys do to get ready for your first lead of the season? I'm not so much talking about physical conditioning - I've been training consistently throughout the winter - more talking about refreshing myself regarding gear / anchors /etc.

My advice is to go back to a route that you have already climbed. One that you feel a bit of comfort with and just jump on it an lead it up.

Good idea. It'll remove any unknowns from the equation and lets you focus on the technical aspects of a gear route.


johnwesely


Feb 21, 2010, 7:14 PM
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cornstateclimber wrote:
me too. i dont get much opportunity to climb much anymore but when i do i just get tied in go!

That is the attitude.


lumineferusother


Feb 21, 2010, 7:33 PM
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If you can suck it up and bang out a 5.10 in December imagine what you could do when the weather and conditions are perfect! A little suffering here and there not only pays off it can be fun!


west_by_god_virginia


Feb 21, 2010, 8:48 PM
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I've already made mine, it went wonderfully. Try wearing a warm jacket.
Wink


blueeyedclimber


Feb 22, 2010, 5:33 AM
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dovyman wrote:
I only started leading trad last year, but I haven't climbed outside since about November as it's been so damn cold and it's tough for me to get away to warmer weather because of work.

What do you guys do to get ready for your first lead of the season? I'm not so much talking about physical conditioning - I've been training consistently throughout the winter - more talking about refreshing myself regarding gear / anchors /etc.

In my first few years of climbing, I spent the winter reading as many instruction books as I could get my hands on. Another thing that I like to do is to continue to lead in the gym throughout the winter. I feel it's important to maintain a leader's mentality. If a route can be led in the gym, than I do not toprope it first. I don't care what grade it is.


Good luck and be safe.
Josh


cush


Feb 22, 2010, 7:06 AM
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three easy steps.

1. rack up
2. sack up
3. GO!


Partner angry


Feb 22, 2010, 7:40 AM
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When does the last lead of one season happen and the first start?

Between road trips, warm clothing, ice climbing, super BBW prostitutes, and the climbing wall, you never really have to stop climbing.


LostinMaine


Feb 22, 2010, 10:03 AM
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dovyman wrote:
I only started leading trad last year, but I haven't climbed outside since about November as it's been so damn cold and it's tough for me to get away to warmer weather because of work.

What do you guys do to get ready for your first lead of the season? I'm not so much talking about physical conditioning - I've been training consistently throughout the winter - more talking about refreshing myself regarding gear / anchors /etc.

I reread my climbing anchors book. I don't learn much on the 500th pass through, but it gets me back in the problem solving mindset for weird anchors. Then, go out with a handful of nuts and practice gear placements anywhere I can find rocks. If I trust my gear and my anchors, my leading head gets back quickly.


swoopee


Feb 22, 2010, 10:41 AM
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Re: [angry] Getting ready for first lead of the season? [In reply to]
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angry wrote:
When does the last lead of one season happen and the first start?

Between road trips, warm clothing, ice climbing, super BBW prostitutes, and the climbing wall, you never really have to stop climbing.

Just out of curiosity, where does one go to find one of those?


dr_feelgood


Feb 22, 2010, 2:28 PM
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swoopee wrote:
angry wrote:
When does the last lead of one season happen and the first start?

Between road trips, warm clothing, ice climbing, super BBW prostitutes, and the climbing wall, you never really have to stop climbing.

Just out of curiosity, where does one go to find one of those?

Not far, my amigo... not far.
to the OP. Sack the fuck up.


dovyman


Feb 22, 2010, 5:27 PM
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dr_feelgood wrote:
swoopee wrote:
angry wrote:
When does the last lead of one season happen and the first start?

Between road trips, warm clothing, ice climbing, super BBW prostitutes, and the climbing wall, you never really have to stop climbing.

Just out of curiosity, where does one go to find one of those?

Not far, my amigo... not far.
to the OP. Sack the fuck up.

Haha fair enough. Guess I just needed a kick in the ass.

And if I had a lot more vacation time to fly to warm climber-friendly places, or a partner that didn't care about the cold, I probably would just climb straight through... alas.

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