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Dry Tooling...
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onrockandice


Feb 21, 2010, 9:26 AM
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Dry Tooling...
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We have ice but it's a ways away because our winter here has been late in coming. We are now getting buckets of snow so our ice will come in later. Right now I can dry tool though. I've never done just dry tooling.

If I'm a strong high 5.10x climber and low 5.11x climber in dry tooling does it make sense to get on 5.12+ climbs? Or am I just being a rock-tard to even want to try this. It seems like the picks give a serious advantage especially on dime edges and such. So does it make sense to bump up 1 or 2 full climbing grades?

If I'm an idiot slap me down and tell me to take up bowling. Wink


granite_grrl


Feb 21, 2010, 9:43 AM
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Re: [onrockandice] Dry Tooling... [In reply to]
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onrockandice wrote:
We have ice but it's a ways away because our winter here has been late in coming. We are now getting buckets of snow so our ice will come in later. Right now I can dry tool though. I've never done just dry tooling.

If I'm a strong high 5.10x climber and low 5.11x climber in dry tooling does it make sense to get on 5.12+ climbs? Or am I just being a rock-tard to even want to try this. It seems like the picks give a serious advantage especially on dime edges and such. So does it make sense to bump up 1 or 2 full climbing grades?

If I'm an idiot slap me down and tell me to take up bowling. Wink
I kinda feel like you're trolling, but it's a slow day here.

As a general rule you do not drytool on established rock routes. Beyond the esthetics of the scratches and such you'll put on the rock, it's also easy to blow off hunks of rock from pockets, etc, with your tools and crampons (picks = a lot of force concentrated on a small area).

So as a 10+/11- climber I would look to get on M4-M5 and start learning some drytooling techniques.



Fix't 'cause I misread the grades he's climbing at.


(This post was edited by granite_grrl on Feb 21, 2010, 9:52 AM)


TheRucat


Feb 21, 2010, 9:48 AM
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Re: [onrockandice] Dry Tooling... [In reply to]
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onrockandice wrote:
If I'm a strong high 5.10x climber and low 5.11x climber

What exactly do you mean by "low 5.11x" climber, does that mean you often fall on routes graded 11x?


moose_droppings


Feb 21, 2010, 10:11 AM
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Re: [onrockandice] Dry Tooling... [In reply to]
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Maybe it's an area specific question, but don't drytool an established free climbing route around here.


onrockandice


Feb 21, 2010, 4:00 PM
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Re: [granite_grrl] Dry Tooling... [In reply to]
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You actually perfectly answered my question. I won't take tools out there at all. Not trolling just really bored. I just got a bunch of new ice gear and I really want to get out on it. We don't have the usual fat ice I'm used to and I want to get and try my new stuff.

I think what I need to do is hook up with some local ice climbers. My normal rock climbing partners are not available for ice and I think getting out with local climbers who know the area and where the ice is might be the best way to go.

Oh and the reason I asked this is because I met some ice climbers at my bouldering gym and they said that for a quick fix they go out dry-tooling. I should have asked *where* they go.

Anyway, thank you. Yet again I'm armed with more information than I had when I arrived.

Thanks for the reply!


onrockandice


Feb 21, 2010, 4:03 PM
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Re: [TheRucat] Dry Tooling... [In reply to]
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I use x like algebra. So I'm a strong climber in 5.10c/d and 5.11a/b. I should have just written that because x does mean something much different which makes me look kind of stupid.

So yeah, strong 5.10c/d to 5.11a/b is what I meant.

EDIT: I have had a major long week and I have way too much work stress on my mind. It tends to wear me down. My wife has taken to calling me "ghost" and it's not an affectionate pet-name.


(This post was edited by onrockandice on Feb 21, 2010, 4:05 PM)


Partner brent_e


Mar 1, 2010, 7:11 PM
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Re: [onrockandice] Dry Tooling... [In reply to]
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onrockandice wrote:
I use x like algebra. So I'm a strong climber in 5.10c/d and 5.11a/b. I should have just written that because x does mean something much different which makes me look kind of stupid.

So yeah, strong 5.10c/d to 5.11a/b is what I meant.

EDIT: I have had a major long week and I have way too much work stress on my mind. It tends to wear me down. My wife has taken to calling me "ghost" and it's not an affectionate pet-name.

maybe you need a tan??? Wink


onrockandice


Mar 1, 2010, 8:03 PM
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Re: [brent_e] Dry Tooling... [In reply to]
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After the crap today I'm about to request a termination of agreement. Tomorrow should be real interesting. Who knows I may get lots of time to tan. Of course I could carry one of your tools into my next meeting and I'll bet I'd get some attention *AND* cooperation eh?Tongue


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