Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Sport Climbing:
Video of Demencia Senil. 5.15a.
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Sport Climbing

Premier Sponsor:

 
First page Previous page 1 2 Next page Last page  View All


yokese


Feb 22, 2010, 12:31 AM
Post #1 of 47 (6304 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 17, 2006
Posts: 672

Video of Demencia Senil. 5.15a.
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Good video of Iker Pou in Demencia Senil, 9a+ (5.15a), Margalef.
Enjoy. Smile

http://vimeo.com/9519387


guangzhou


Feb 22, 2010, 12:45 AM
Post #2 of 47 (6300 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 26, 2004
Posts: 3389

Re: [yokese] Video of Demencia Senil. 5.15a. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Nive find. An excellent video for sure. I'll share it with my climbing friends.

Strong, strong, strong. Good use of rest too.


I_do


Feb 22, 2010, 4:30 AM
Post #3 of 47 (6261 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 2, 2008
Posts: 1232

Re: [yokese] Video of Demencia Senil. 5.15a. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

yokese wrote:
Good video of Iker Pou in Demencia Senil, 9a+ (5.15a), Margalef.
Enjoy. Smile

http://vimeo.com/9519387

That climb looks like it would break, eat up and then spit out all of my fingers. Good thing for Pou he is the fucking boss!

yo también pienso que Iker Pou es el puto amo!!!!


lena_chita
Moderator

Feb 22, 2010, 7:53 AM
Post #4 of 47 (6212 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 5701

Re: [I_do] Video of Demencia Senil. 5.15a. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I_do wrote:
yokese wrote:
Good video of Iker Pou in Demencia Senil, 9a+ (5.15a), Margalef.
Enjoy. Smile

http://vimeo.com/9519387

That climb looks like it would break, eat up and then spit out all of my fingers. Good thing for Pou he is the fucking boss!

No kidding! I was cringing the whole time, but it is amazing.


agdavis


Feb 22, 2010, 8:05 AM
Post #5 of 47 (6201 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 7, 2009
Posts: 310

Re: [yokese] Video of Demencia Senil. 5.15a. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

yokese wrote:
Good video of Iker Pou in Demencia Senil, 9a+ (5.15a), Margalef.
Enjoy. Smile

http://vimeo.com/9519387

that's some amazing video work. not to mention climbing.


Partner j_ung


Feb 22, 2010, 9:17 AM
Post #6 of 47 (6160 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18687

Re: [agdavis] Video of Demencia Senil. 5.15a. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I think one of my tendons just exploded.


scottek67


Feb 22, 2010, 9:29 AM
Post #7 of 47 (6143 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 6, 2008
Posts: 515

Re: [j_ung] Video of Demencia Senil. 5.15a. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

oh so that's what a 5.15 looks like! redbullDevil for breakfast... great way to start the day!


mr.tastycakes


Feb 22, 2010, 10:37 AM
Post #8 of 47 (6107 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 10, 2008
Posts: 310

Re: [yokese] Video of Demencia Senil. 5.15a. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

yokese wrote:
Good video of Iker Pou in Demencia Senil, 9a+ (5.15a), Margalef.
Enjoy. Smile

http://vimeo.com/9519387

damn, nice video.

Check out 1:45 - awkward cross body clip from a shallow 2-finger gaston, on a 65 degree overhang...I will never complain about a sketchy clip again.

High level sport climbing is just getting absurd...50 feet of shallow, strangely-oriented mono's and 2 finger pockets on a massively overhanding wall is fucking insane.

Respect to Mr. Pou.

Edit: i read an interview where Adam Ondra said he tweaked a finger on this beast and didn't want to get back on it, so we mortals shouldn't be too depressed.


(This post was edited by mr.tastycakes on Feb 22, 2010, 10:40 AM)


Adk


Feb 22, 2010, 2:20 PM
Post #9 of 47 (6052 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 2, 2006
Posts: 1084

Re: [mr.tastycakes] Video of Demencia Senil. 5.15a. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

At first I was thinking...yeah......then I woke up!!!

WOW!


davidnn5


Feb 22, 2010, 2:56 PM
Post #10 of 47 (6032 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 7, 2009
Posts: 348

Re: [yokese] Video of Demencia Senil. 5.15a. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Monos are the devil, therefore that video is the equivalent of sacrificing a goat.


Carnage


Feb 24, 2010, 8:13 AM
Post #11 of 47 (5905 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 27, 2007
Posts: 923

Re: [yokese] Video of Demencia Senil. 5.15a. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

i thought any route above .14b came with spirit draws attached!


Partner abe_ascends


Feb 24, 2010, 8:44 AM
Post #12 of 47 (5882 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 17, 2005
Posts: 367

Re: [yokese] Video of Demencia Senil. 5.15a. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

*Jaw drops*


Bag11s


Feb 24, 2010, 1:10 PM
Post #13 of 47 (5833 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 8, 2009
Posts: 98

Re: [yokese] Video of Demencia Senil. 5.15a. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

There's also great footage of Chris Sharma on it in the film Progression, not to mention 1st round, 1st minute.


Partner cracklover


Feb 24, 2010, 1:33 PM
Post #14 of 47 (5811 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10010

Re: [yokese] Video of Demencia Senil. 5.15a. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

The big dyno at 3:05 of a pair of monos, one of which is very shallow, is just insane.

GO


jakedatc


Feb 24, 2010, 1:42 PM
Post #15 of 47 (5801 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054

Re: [cracklover] Video of Demencia Senil. 5.15a. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

someone should get him some V10's or solutions so he doesn't have to use his slab shoes.. foot work seems a bit sloppy considering the shitty ass holds he is on you'd think being more deliberate with the feet would help.

silly nuts either way. especially if Ondra had trouble. that kid is becoming a freak on pockets


Partner cracklover


Feb 24, 2010, 2:44 PM
Post #16 of 47 (5774 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10010

Re: [jakedatc] Video of Demencia Senil. 5.15a. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

jakedatc wrote:
someone should get him some V10's or solutions so he doesn't have to use his slab shoes.. foot work seems a bit sloppy considering the shitty ass holds he is on you'd think being more deliberate with the feet would help.

silly nuts either way. especially if Ondra had trouble. that kid is becoming a freak on pockets

I suspect it's a contractual/sponsorship thing. See: http://www.climbingshoereview.com/...ps/Tenaya-Amigo.html

In the video he's wearing the Tenaya Masai, rather than the Tenaya Amigo, but it's the same brand...

GO


granite_grrl


Feb 24, 2010, 2:58 PM
Post #17 of 47 (5768 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 14800

Re: [yokese] Video of Demencia Senil. 5.15a. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I don't see how anything with a no hands rest can be any harder than 12d.


johnwesely


Feb 24, 2010, 3:26 PM
Post #18 of 47 (5745 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 12, 2006
Posts: 5343

Re: [granite_grrl] Video of Demencia Senil. 5.15a. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

granite_grrl wrote:
I don't see how anything with a no hands rest can be any harder than 12d.

And nothing with a jug on it can be harder than 11c.


boadman


Feb 24, 2010, 3:29 PM
Post #19 of 47 (5740 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 6, 2003
Posts: 726

Re: [jakedatc] Video of Demencia Senil. 5.15a. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

jakedatc wrote:
someone should get him some V10's or solutions so he doesn't have to use his slab shoes.. foot work seems a bit sloppy considering the shitty ass holds he is on you'd think being more deliberate with the feet would help.

silly nuts either way. especially if Ondra had trouble. that kid is becoming a freak on pockets

Seriously? You're critiquing him? Hmmmm....


jakedatc


Feb 24, 2010, 4:00 PM
Post #20 of 47 (5722 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054

Re: [boadman] Video of Demencia Senil. 5.15a. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

boadman wrote:
jakedatc wrote:
someone should get him some V10's or solutions so he doesn't have to use his slab shoes.. foot work seems a bit sloppy considering the shitty ass holds he is on you'd think being more deliberate with the feet would help.

silly nuts either way. especially if Ondra had trouble. that kid is becoming a freak on pockets

Seriously? You're critiquing him? Hmmmm....

why not? you don't think that even after the campus part his footwork is pretty sloppy? i just don't know if it is by design to have the hands feel better without worrying about footwork or not. sharma looks far more controlled which makes me believe Iker could have made it easier on himself.

you can climb 5.15 sloppy the same way you can climb 5.10 sloppy.


Partner robdotcalm


Feb 24, 2010, 4:39 PM
Post #21 of 47 (5702 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 31, 2002
Posts: 1023

Re: [jakedatc] Video of Demencia Senil. 5.15a. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

jakedatc wrote:
you can climb 5.15 sloppy the same way you can climb 5.10 sloppy.

That's the most helpful advice I've been given in a long time.

Cheers,
Rob.calm


I_do


Feb 24, 2010, 5:49 PM
Post #22 of 47 (5675 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 2, 2008
Posts: 1232

Re: [robdotcalm] Video of Demencia Senil. 5.15a. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

robdotcalm wrote:
jakedatc wrote:
you can climb 5.15 sloppy the same way you can climb 5.10 sloppy.

That's the most helpful advice I've been given in a long time.

Cheers,
Rob.calm

I was always so controlled on 9a+ (We use your ratings for your problems I suggest you do the same). But now I finally know how to solve that horribel problem!


jakedatc


Feb 24, 2010, 6:21 PM
Post #23 of 47 (5660 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054

Re: [robdotcalm] Video of Demencia Senil. 5.15a. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

robdotcalm wrote:
jakedatc wrote:
you can climb 5.15 sloppy the same way you can climb 5.10 sloppy.

That's the most helpful advice I've been given in a long time.

Cheers,
Rob.calm

i figured boadman was saying i couldn't critique the guy because he climbs super hard. wasn't really implying someone should climb that way. just that it is possible :) i have no doubt rob you have the skills to climb things sloppy at ANY level ;)


TheRucat


Feb 24, 2010, 7:18 PM
Post #24 of 47 (5633 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 20, 2008
Posts: 234

Re: [I_do] Video of Demencia Senil. 5.15a. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I_do wrote:

(We use your ratings for your problems I suggest you do the same)
Nahh, thanks though..


(This post was edited by TheRucat on Feb 24, 2010, 7:23 PM)


I_do


Feb 24, 2010, 11:49 PM
Post #25 of 47 (5579 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 2, 2008
Posts: 1232

Re: [TheRucat] Video of Demencia Senil. 5.15a. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

TheRucat wrote:
I_do wrote:

(We use your ratings for your problems I suggest you do the same)
Nahh, thanks though..

Figures. Damn Americano's think they're the centre of the world.

First page Previous page 1 2 Next page Last page  View All

Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Sport Climbing

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?
$10.76 (10% off)
$105.30 (10% off)
$19.76 (10% off)
$12.56 (10% off)



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook