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matterunomama
Feb 23, 2010, 5:24 PM
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I'm hoping to get to Red Rocks this spring. What guide do you recommend? I'm looking for clarity as far as approaches and routes (I am a little 'challenged' with directionality) and a good selection of moderate sport climbs.
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vegastradguy
Feb 23, 2010, 6:38 PM
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This is probably the best overall guide for the park, but if all you're ever planning to climb in Red Rocks is the sport climbs...its probably a waste of money. There is a Sport Climbing guide to Red Rocks by Jared McMillan available- its probably the cheapest option. Not sure on the directions, but the sport climbing in Red Rock isnt exactly impossible to find. Only the black corridor may present some route finding challenges, everything else is visible from the road.
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Gmburns2000
Feb 23, 2010, 7:06 PM
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While I think the Handren guide is the better of the two main guides, I find the Brock and Handren guide complement each other well. I have them both and tend reference both for all of my climbs in Red Rocks.
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lena_chita
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Feb 23, 2010, 7:36 PM
Post #5 of 12
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vegastradguy wrote: This is probably the best overall guide for the park, but if all you're ever planning to climb in Red Rocks is the sport climbs...its probably a waste of money. There is a Sport Climbing guide to Red Rocks by Jared McMillan available- its probably the cheapest option. Not sure on the directions, but the sport climbing in Red Rock isnt exactly impossible to find. Only the black corridor may present some route finding challenges, everything else is visible from the road.
You've been climbing there for too long, so you probably can find your way around blindfolded. As a rare visitor, I found that guidebook I linked is much easier to read than the others (I do have the other guidebook) b/c of the color overview photos.
I must be directionaly challenged, too, b/c finding Stone Wall was quite an epic, and I remember the frustration of figuring out how to get to the Panty Wall or the Gallery-- highly visible right over there- but how to get there from here? Surprizingly, Black Corridor was the easiest to find.
LOL, my problem is that while a the areas are visible from the road, once you go down it becomes much harder to find them.
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desertwanderer81
Feb 23, 2010, 8:34 PM
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lena_chita wrote: vegastradguy wrote: This is probably the best overall guide for the park, but if all you're ever planning to climb in Red Rocks is the sport climbs...its probably a waste of money. There is a Sport Climbing guide to Red Rocks by Jared McMillan available- its probably the cheapest option. Not sure on the directions, but the sport climbing in Red Rock isnt exactly impossible to find. Only the black corridor may present some route finding challenges, everything else is visible from the road. You've been climbing there for too long, so you probably can find your way around blindfolded. As a rare visitor, I found that guidebook I linked is much easier to read than the others (I do have the other guidebook) b/c of the color overview photos. I must be directionaly challenged, too, b/c finding Stone Wall was quite an epic, and I remember the frustration of figuring out how to get to the Panty Wall or the Gallery-- highly visible right over there- but how to get there from here? Surprizingly, Black Corridor was the easiest to find. LOL, my problem is that while a the areas are visible from the road, once you go down it becomes much harder to find them.
I'm actually with Lena on this one. Until you know all of the right little paths to take, finding all of the sport areas is surprisingly complicated. Black Corridor however is super easy as you just follow the canyon!
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matterunomama
Feb 24, 2010, 12:06 AM
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Thank you all for your first-hand opinions. After shooting the question out at work, I see now that a good over view is right here on rc.comhttp://www.rockclimbing.com/...A_Red_Rock_Overview/. I will ask some folks at the gym if they have any of these for me to take a look at. Which one I buy may depend on who is going with me (if they can trad-lead the harder pitches) and what book they happen to have.
A follow-up question: How comparable are the ratings? I learned at the Gunks (seconding/tr only) and was thrilled if I could hyperventilate and grunt and make it up behind the leader on an 8 or 9. Then at EPC 9s were sweet and above a 10b was challenging.
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smallclimber
Feb 24, 2010, 1:31 AM
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Not sure if this will help as its more a trad comparison. Over about three visits to Red Rocks my partner and I have generally found we can happily lead (trad) a grade harder than our current level in the Gunks. For sport I found it comparable to Rumney for grades (if you've ever been there) but not so closely bolted.
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vegastradguy
Feb 24, 2010, 4:50 PM
Post #10 of 12
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matterunomama wrote: Thank you all for your first-hand opinions. After shooting the question out at work, I see now that a good over view is right here on rc.com http://www.rockclimbing.com/...A_Red_Rock_Overview/. I will ask some folks at the gym if they have any of these for me to take a look at. Which one I buy may depend on who is going with me (if they can trad-lead the harder pitches) and what book they happen to have. A follow-up question: How comparable are the ratings? I learned at the Gunks (seconding/tr only) and was thrilled if I could hyperventilate and grunt and make it up behind the leader on an 8 or 9. Then at EPC 9s were sweet and above a 10b was challenging.
compared to the gunks, you'll find Red Rock casual unless you try to climb the slabs.
my favorite quote from a gunks climber was when she completed a sustained .10a pitch on TR, laughed and called it Gunks 5.8.
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raymondjeffrey
Feb 24, 2010, 5:54 PM
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Registered: Mar 2, 2004
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Check out Jerry Handrens guide book.
jefro
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lena_chita
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Feb 24, 2010, 6:33 PM
Post #12 of 12
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matterunomama wrote: A follow-up question: How comparable are the ratings? I learned at the Gunks (seconding/tr only) and was thrilled if I could hyperventilate and grunt and make it up behind the leader on an 8 or 9. Then at EPC 9s were sweet and above a 10b was challenging.
Red Rocks is graded softer than the Gunks overall, but, as always, there are routes at any grade that seem much harder or much softer than the given grade.
Don't over-think it. Start on routes that are well below your ability level (you need warm-ups anyway) and go from there.
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