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cabouldering
Dec 11, 2002, 6:18 AM
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In another thread beethovenboy "disced" Lucerne Limestone. I am interested in feedback from others who have climbed there. To beethovenboy, Lucerne Limestone is a shithole compared to what? New Jack City or Red Rocks, NV? You cannot compare because it is a small crag and has totally different rock type, limestone with feldspar bands. Are you a hardman that sportclimbs 5.13 and are pissed because the hardest climb is 5.12? Did you invest any time, money or effort on the development of the crag? I recommend you take Lucerne Limestone for what it is, a South-facing winter crag with a few dozen moderate sport climbs on unique rock. CABouldering FAs Welcome To Lucerne Limestone Up The Middle Ancient Chinese Secret Fortune Cookie as well as others at Lucerne Limestone and NJC.
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roughster
Dec 11, 2002, 6:53 AM
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Dan, I can see how people who see "Limestone" would get all worked up, then go out there and not be impressed by the crag. And this is coming from the person who sunk the most bolts into the place. However, if people go to Lucerne with an open mind and realize, it isn't a destination area, but rather somewhere new to go to get in a few routes on a type of rock that you cannot find anywhere else in SoCal, they will be pleasantly surprised. The climbs there are fun, they are bolted well, and once at the cliff, its pretty easy to slide back and forth and do any number of routes at just about every grade up to 12a. The place is great for a day where you just want to get out and have a good time and not worry about having to hassle with crowds. Look at Beethoven Boy's climbng ticklist on his profile. Enough said. He wouldn't know good climbing it it came up and bit him and his belayer on the ass. I just shrug off people like that and realize, there are takers and there are givers in the climbing community, just like every aspect of life. I know which group I (and you as well) fall into, and judging by B-boys attitude, I'm about 100% positive where he stands. Karma has a way of getting around one way or another. [ This Message was edited by: roughster on 2002-12-11 07:14 ]
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jtme
Dec 11, 2002, 7:01 AM
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My $.02 Well its O.K. climbing, on Interesting rock. I've been there several times. If you want to avoid the crowds at NJC, this is a good option. But I wouldn't go outta my way to get there. But then again, I wouldn't go out of my to NJC either!!! -r-
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tigerbythetail
Dec 11, 2002, 11:09 AM
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This is without a doubt the best f**kin' area in So Cal...
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roughster
Dec 11, 2002, 3:20 PM
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LOL Chris. Lucerne is far from that, however, does it deserve to be called a shithole more than many other SoCal areas? Of course not.
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tigerbythetail
Dec 11, 2002, 3:49 PM
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I've climbed there and enjoyed it...I think it has to do as much with the individual as the area. There have been super chossy routes I've done at Josh and other areas and I still enjoyed them, saying something like "well it sucked, but it had a few good moves...". It's good to be able to climb on all types of rock and terrain, especially if you're intent on doing long routes where you must deal with it as opposed to lower off.
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roughster
Dec 11, 2002, 4:12 PM
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Cheers to that Chris!
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moabbeth
Dec 11, 2002, 4:19 PM
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I've climbed there. Wasn't great but wasn't bad. It was a nice day trip from LA, not as far as JT or NJC. Did some decent crack climbs and liked them. Good 5.11 roof up there as well. The area surrounding it is kinda sketchy, but at the same time it's kinda the middle of nowhere so there was no one out there and we had the place to ourselves. And oddly enough one of the most gorgeous sunsets I've ever seen was when I was wrapping up a day of climbing at Lucerne. It's not a place I'd want to go back to over and over like Josh or Tahquitz, but it makes a good one day climbing trip if I don't have the weekend to spend at JT.
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antimatter
Dec 24, 2002, 5:28 PM
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Good fun, we climbed a few routes and will definitely be back to climb the remaining ones. The rock is interesting and there's some nice lines! Good work!
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