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yokese
Feb 22, 2010, 8:31 AM
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Good video of Iker Pou in Demencia Senil, 9a+ (5.15a), Margalef.
Enjoy. 
http://vimeo.com/9519387
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guangzhou
Feb 22, 2010, 8:45 AM
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Nive find. An excellent video for sure. I'll share it with my climbing friends.
Strong, strong, strong. Good use of rest too.
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I_do
Feb 22, 2010, 12:30 PM
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That climb looks like it would break, eat up and then spit out all of my fingers. Good thing for Pou he is the fucking boss!
yo también pienso que Iker Pou es el puto amo!!!!
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lena_chita
Moderator
Feb 22, 2010, 3:53 PM
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I_do wrote: That climb looks like it would break, eat up and then spit out all of my fingers. Good thing for Pou he is the fucking boss!
No kidding! I was cringing the whole time, but it is amazing.
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agdavis
Feb 22, 2010, 4:05 PM
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that's some amazing video work. not to mention climbing.
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j_ung
Feb 22, 2010, 5:17 PM
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I think one of my tendons just exploded.
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scottek67
Feb 22, 2010, 5:29 PM
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oh so that's what a 5.15 looks like! redbull for breakfast... great way to start the day!
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mr.tastycakes
Feb 22, 2010, 6:37 PM
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damn, nice video.
Check out 1:45 - awkward cross body clip from a shallow 2-finger gaston, on a 65 degree overhang...I will never complain about a sketchy clip again.
High level sport climbing is just getting absurd...50 feet of shallow, strangely-oriented mono's and 2 finger pockets on a massively overhanding wall is fucking insane.
Respect to Mr. Pou.
Edit: i read an interview where Adam Ondra said he tweaked a finger on this beast and didn't want to get back on it, so we mortals shouldn't be too depressed.
(This post was edited by mr.tastycakes on Feb 22, 2010, 6:40 PM)
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Adk
Feb 22, 2010, 10:20 PM
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At first I was thinking...yeah......then I woke up!!!
WOW!
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davidnn5
Feb 22, 2010, 10:56 PM
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Monos are the devil, therefore that video is the equivalent of sacrificing a goat.
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Carnage
Feb 24, 2010, 4:13 PM
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i thought any route above .14b came with spirit draws attached!
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abe_ascends
Feb 24, 2010, 4:44 PM
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*Jaw drops*
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Bag11s
Feb 24, 2010, 9:10 PM
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There's also great footage of Chris Sharma on it in the film Progression, not to mention 1st round, 1st minute.
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cracklover
Feb 24, 2010, 9:33 PM
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The big dyno at 3:05 of a pair of monos, one of which is very shallow, is just insane.
GO
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jakedatc
Feb 24, 2010, 9:42 PM
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someone should get him some V10's or solutions so he doesn't have to use his slab shoes.. foot work seems a bit sloppy considering the shitty ass holds he is on you'd think being more deliberate with the feet would help.
silly nuts either way. especially if Ondra had trouble. that kid is becoming a freak on pockets
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cracklover
Feb 24, 2010, 10:44 PM
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jakedatc wrote: someone should get him some V10's or solutions so he doesn't have to use his slab shoes.. foot work seems a bit sloppy considering the shitty ass holds he is on you'd think being more deliberate with the feet would help. silly nuts either way. especially if Ondra had trouble. that kid is becoming a freak on pockets
I suspect it's a contractual/sponsorship thing. See: http://www.climbingshoereview.com/...ps/Tenaya-Amigo.html
In the video he's wearing the Tenaya Masai, rather than the Tenaya Amigo, but it's the same brand...
GO
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granite_grrl
Feb 24, 2010, 10:58 PM
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I don't see how anything with a no hands rest can be any harder than 12d.
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johnwesely
Feb 24, 2010, 11:26 PM
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granite_grrl wrote: I don't see how anything with a no hands rest can be any harder than 12d.
And nothing with a jug on it can be harder than 11c.
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boadman
Feb 24, 2010, 11:29 PM
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jakedatc wrote: someone should get him some V10's or solutions so he doesn't have to use his slab shoes.. foot work seems a bit sloppy considering the shitty ass holds he is on you'd think being more deliberate with the feet would help. silly nuts either way. especially if Ondra had trouble. that kid is becoming a freak on pockets
Seriously? You're critiquing him? Hmmmm....
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jakedatc
Feb 25, 2010, 12:00 AM
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boadman wrote: jakedatc wrote: someone should get him some V10's or solutions so he doesn't have to use his slab shoes.. foot work seems a bit sloppy considering the shitty ass holds he is on you'd think being more deliberate with the feet would help. silly nuts either way. especially if Ondra had trouble. that kid is becoming a freak on pockets Seriously? You're critiquing him? Hmmmm....
why not? you don't think that even after the campus part his footwork is pretty sloppy? i just don't know if it is by design to have the hands feel better without worrying about footwork or not. sharma looks far more controlled which makes me believe Iker could have made it easier on himself.
you can climb 5.15 sloppy the same way you can climb 5.10 sloppy.
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I_do
Feb 25, 2010, 1:49 AM
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robdotcalm wrote: jakedatc wrote: you can climb 5.15 sloppy the same way you can climb 5.10 sloppy. That's the most helpful advice I've been given in a long time. Cheers, Rob.calm
I was always so controlled on 9a+ (We use your ratings for your problems I suggest you do the same). But now I finally know how to solve that horribel problem!
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jakedatc
Feb 25, 2010, 2:21 AM
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robdotcalm wrote: jakedatc wrote: you can climb 5.15 sloppy the same way you can climb 5.10 sloppy. That's the most helpful advice I've been given in a long time. Cheers, Rob.calm
i figured boadman was saying i couldn't critique the guy because he climbs super hard. wasn't really implying someone should climb that way. just that it is possible :) i have no doubt rob you have the skills to climb things sloppy at ANY level ;)
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TheRucat
Feb 25, 2010, 3:18 AM
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I_do wrote: (We use your ratings for your problems I suggest you do the same)
(This post was edited by TheRucat on Feb 25, 2010, 3:23 AM)
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I_do
Feb 25, 2010, 7:49 AM
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TheRucat wrote: I_do wrote: (We use your ratings for your problems I suggest you do the same) Nahh, thanks though..
Figures. Damn Americano's think they're the centre of the world.
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