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cabinfever
Mar 2, 2010, 8:38 PM
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Hey, I was wondering if anyone had any advice for how to build a dihedral (with multiple bolt holes) or a volume hold for a home woody or even for using at the local gym?
Thanks
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acorneau
Mar 2, 2010, 8:50 PM
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cabinfever wrote: Hey, I was wondering if anyone had any advice for how to build a dihedral (with multiple bolt holes) or a volume hold for a home woody or even for using at the local gym? Thanks
You can build a dihedral in any corner that you would normally build a woody. If you have a pre-existing woody then just build a "wing" to create the dihedral.
For volumes you can buy them or make your own.
http://www.rockwerxclimbing.com/4921.xml
RouteSetter.com had some good info on building volumes but it's been lost from the transition to the new forum.
Edit to add... http://www.rockclimbing.com/...d;page=unread#unread
(This post was edited by acorneau on Mar 2, 2010, 8:54 PM)
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adatesman
Mar 2, 2010, 8:51 PM
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acorneau
Mar 2, 2010, 8:57 PM
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Didn't see the others, but my guess is "Indoor Climbing" would be most appropriate.
But then I'm not a Greenie. 
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adatesman
Mar 2, 2010, 9:02 PM
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kovacs69
Mar 2, 2010, 9:10 PM
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How do you become a "Greenie" anyways? Does someone swoop in and say "Hey you are on here enough and seem to know something about climbing would you like to become a Greenie?" or is there some sort of application process? Seems like it would be fun. I have liked my time as Editor of the Oklahoma and Arkansas routes section. Although I am still not sure how I got the Arkansas job. But I digress...if you guys decide you need another Greenie I would be up for the challenge.
JB
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cabinfever
Mar 2, 2010, 9:15 PM
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Thanks for the reply. As for the multiple posts, good point, I'll refrain from it in the future. I don't usually post, just usually read others.
Thanks.
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johnwesely
Mar 2, 2010, 9:49 PM
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cabinfever wrote: Thanks for the reply. As for the multiple posts, good point, I'll refrain from it in the future. I don't usually post, just usually read others. Thanks.
Usually, it is best to break etiquette rules when you are new. First impressions and all.
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i_h8_choss
Mar 3, 2010, 9:33 PM
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back on topic sorta...
every gym should have at least one 40 ft. tall 110 degree dihedral complete with small pancake like stem holds, tiny pimple foot holds, a hands splitter crack, slightly overhanging, and goes at .11+/.12.
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johnwesely
Mar 3, 2010, 9:56 PM
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i_h8_choss wrote: back on topic sorta... every gym should have at least one 40 ft. tall 110 degree dihedral complete with small pancake like stem holds, tiny pimple foot holds, a hands splitter crack, slightly overhanging, and goes at .11+/.12.
Why?
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i_h8_choss
Mar 3, 2010, 10:46 PM
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johnwesely wrote: i_h8_choss wrote: back on topic sorta... every gym should have at least one 40 ft. tall 110 degree dihedral complete with small pancake like stem holds, tiny pimple foot holds, a hands splitter crack, slightly overhanging, and goes at .11+/.12. Why?
because
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johnwesely
Mar 3, 2010, 11:24 PM
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i_h8_choss wrote: johnwesely wrote: i_h8_choss wrote: back on topic sorta... every gym should have at least one 40 ft. tall 110 degree dihedral complete with small pancake like stem holds, tiny pimple foot holds, a hands splitter crack, slightly overhanging, and goes at .11+/.12. Why? because
I wouldn't have accepted any other answer.
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acorneau
Mar 4, 2010, 2:22 AM
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i_h8_choss wrote: back on topic sorta... every gym should have at least one 40 ft. tall 110 degree dihedral complete with small pancake like stem holds, tiny pimple foot holds, a hands splitter crack, slightly overhanging, and goes at .11+/.12.
We have that but it goes at a 5.9, 5.10a at best.
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johnwesely
Mar 4, 2010, 2:27 AM
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acorneau wrote: i_h8_choss wrote: back on topic sorta... every gym should have at least one 40 ft. tall 110 degree dihedral complete with small pancake like stem holds, tiny pimple foot holds, a hands splitter crack, slightly overhanging, and goes at .11+/.12. We have that but it goes at a 5.9, 5.10a at best.
10a/b
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gmggg
Mar 5, 2010, 8:14 PM
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acorneau wrote: i_h8_choss wrote: back on topic sorta... every gym should have at least one 40 ft. tall 110 degree dihedral complete with small pancake like stem holds, tiny pimple foot holds, a hands splitter crack, slightly overhanging, and goes at .11+/.12. We have that but it goes at a 5.9, 5.10a at best.
I think that's the best you could hope for indoors...
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jbrown2
Mar 5, 2010, 9:02 PM
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Dont do it. You will be soarly disapointed with the waste of space. Stemming is an art but if you dont have 30 ft or more of a wall it is useless.
Build an arete instead.
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altelis
Mar 5, 2010, 9:28 PM
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acorneau wrote: i_h8_choss wrote: back on topic sorta... every gym should have at least one 40 ft. tall 110 degree dihedral complete with small pancake like stem holds, tiny pimple foot holds, a hands splitter crack, slightly overhanging, and goes at .11+/.12. We have that but it goes at a 5.9, 5.10a at best.
So, what you mean to say is that you DON'T have that, eh?
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edge
Mar 5, 2010, 9:51 PM
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My personal dihedral thoughts:
Volumes built as a dihedral are useless, as they are too short for the latter and have too many options for the former.
Full dihedrals in the gym can be a bit wasteful, but you need inside corners to make outside corners, and the outies are much more fun to climb.
Gym dihedrals should be overhanging, flared, almost devoid of holds, and overhanging to be interesting. You can do away with one of these traits, as long as it isn't overhanging.
I have seen vertical and interesting dihedrals, but God was the routesetter, and I hear he charges a lot for gym calls.
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