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PlasticHead


Jan 28, 2010, 4:21 AM
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training for speed climbing competitions?
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today is january 28th and I think SCS regionals are in a few months. Part of the regional competition is speed climbing.

I've always been pretty fast. But i recently took a long break and now i'm as slow as a turtle!

What can I do to build back my speed before this upcoming comp?


I_do


Jan 28, 2010, 6:19 AM
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PlasticHead wrote:
today is january 28th and I think SCS regionals are in a few months. Part of the regional competition is speed climbing.

I've always been pretty fast. But i recently took a long break and now i'm as slow as a turtle!

What can I do to build back my speed before this upcoming comp?

Well if you need speed, use speed! Available at your friendly neigbourhood drug dealer. It'll make you climb very fast. Coke is good to.


scottek67


Jan 28, 2010, 6:28 AM
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Re: [I_do] training for speed climbing competitions? [In reply to]
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I_do wrote:
PlasticHead wrote:
today is january 28th and I think SCS regionals are in a few months. Part of the regional competition is speed climbing.

I've always been pretty fast. But i recently took a long break and now i'm as slow as a turtle!

What can I do to build back my speed before this upcoming comp?

Well if you need speed, use speed! Available at your friendly neigbourhood drug dealer. It'll make you climb very fast. Coke is good to.
that is good advice but don't forget a big breakfast with lots of twinkies and redbull. see ya at the E.R.Wink


I_do


Jan 28, 2010, 6:52 AM
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Re: [scottek67] training for speed climbing competitions? [In reply to]
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scottek67 wrote:
I_do wrote:
PlasticHead wrote:
today is january 28th and I think SCS regionals are in a few months. Part of the regional competition is speed climbing.

I've always been pretty fast. But i recently took a long break and now i'm as slow as a turtle!

What can I do to build back my speed before this upcoming comp?

Well if you need speed, use speed! Available at your friendly neigbourhood drug dealer. It'll make you climb very fast. Coke is good to.
that is good advice but don't forget a big breakfast with lots of twinkies and redbull. see ya at the E.R.Wink

Also you could go for speed downclimbing, otherwise known as decking, it's the SHiZ yo rage


johnwesely


Jan 28, 2010, 7:28 AM
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Practice?


PlasticHead


Jan 28, 2010, 11:12 AM
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johnwesely wrote:
Practice?

yes john, I have been practicing for several weeks now. But what kind of training should i do becides practice. ex: squats?


johnwesely


Jan 28, 2010, 11:14 AM
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PlasticHead wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
Practice?

yes john, I have been practicing for several weeks now. But what kind of training should i do becides practice. ex: squats?

Yeah. I would definitely do lots and lots of squats. Maybe around 500 a day. That would make you climb really fast.


PlasticHead


Jan 28, 2010, 11:19 AM
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johnwesely wrote:
PlasticHead wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
Practice?

yes john, I have been practicing for several weeks now. But what kind of training should i do becides practice. ex: squats?

Yeah. I would definitely do lots and lots of squats. Maybe around 500 a day. That would make you climb really fast.

wdf 500 a day? Looks like somebody just wants to get rid of the competition...


johnwesely


Jan 28, 2010, 11:27 AM
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PlasticHead wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
PlasticHead wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
Practice?

yes john, I have been practicing for several weeks now. But what kind of training should i do becides practice. ex: squats?

Yeah. I would definitely do lots and lots of squats. Maybe around 500 a day. That would make you climb really fast.

wdf 500 a day? Looks like somebody just wants to get rid of the competition...

No really. Your legs will be so powerful that you will literally shoot up the walls.


I_do


Jan 29, 2010, 3:40 AM
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Re: [PlasticHead] training for speed climbing competitions? [In reply to]
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PlasticHead wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
PlasticHead wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
Practice?

yes john, I have been practicing for several weeks now. But what kind of training should i do becides practice. ex: squats?

Yeah. I would definitely do lots and lots of squats. Maybe around 500 a day. That would make you climb really fast.

wdf 500 a day? Looks like somebody just wants to get rid of the competition...

Don't you already have a collection of injuries? Take it easy get competent and enjoy climbing for the next 40 years instead of quitting frustrated in a few.

Cheers


airscape


Feb 1, 2010, 4:59 AM
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Roids will make you the Marion Jones of speed climbing.

I hope they don't test your piss...


Jo_Rock


Feb 3, 2010, 12:00 PM
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Re: [PlasticHead] training for speed climbing competitions? [In reply to]
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I apologize in advance for not having any witty but useless advice (trust me, there will be times when I will be useless in the future, and maybe even witty).

Hans Florine in Speed Climbing (p90) says "...when you train for particular motions...you should exaggerate the speed of the motion to recruit fast twitch muscle fibers." He also suggests a VersaClimber if you have access to one and skate skiing using longer than normal poles.

Mark Twight recommends small sets where you focus everything you have on pulling (or pushing) as fast as you can (lower slowly to avoid injury) and resting 2 to 3 minutes between sets. (Extreme Alpinism p47) This book has what seems like a lot of really good training info, but I have not taken enough time out of my busy drinking schedule to implement enough of this to give my personal recommendation, but Twight's resume makes it pretty likely that this is not just esoteric hypothesizing.

J


Jo_Rock


Feb 3, 2010, 12:19 PM
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Didn't notice you were in Florida....the skate skiing suggestion is probably not that helpful, even if it has been a little colder than normal.

J


johngalt


Feb 3, 2010, 9:08 PM
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Re: [Jo_Rock] training for speed climbing competitions? [In reply to]
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Thanks for the tip Jo.

I've adopted a "theme/motto" over the last few years. it is: "don't get injured during the training." Better to go off the couch and get injured in the performance than injured in the training and not get to do the performance. You may replace the word "performance" with "adventure" or "climbing trip," etc...

That said. YES- if you want to improve your speed climbing do an action with less weight and make the movement faster than you normally would.

cheers,

Hans

ps. I'm giving a clinic at Rockn & Jamn in Denver on Feb 19th. - but it's more about NIAD skills not comp speed climbing.


PlasticHead


Feb 6, 2010, 5:36 PM
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thanks Jo. I appreciate you trying to help. Too bad I can't ski in florida!


acorneau


Feb 11, 2010, 5:35 PM
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PlasticHead wrote:
thanks Jo. I appreciate you trying to help. Too bad I can't ski in florida!

Sure you can... water skiing, that is!
Angelic


PlasticHead


Mar 3, 2010, 7:58 AM
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Jo_Rock wrote:
I apologize in advance for not having any witty but useless advice (trust me, there will be times when I will be useless in the future, and maybe even witty).

Hans Florine in Speed Climbing (p90) says "...when you train for particular motions...you should exaggerate the speed of the motion to recruit fast twitch muscle fibers." He also suggests a VersaClimber if you have access to one and skate skiing using longer than normal poles.

Mark Twight recommends small sets where you focus everything you have on pulling (or pushing) as fast as you can (lower slowly to avoid injury) and resting 2 to 3 minutes between sets. (Extreme Alpinism p47) This book has what seems like a lot of really good training info, but I have not taken enough time out of my busy drinking schedule to implement enough of this to give my personal recommendation, but Twight's resume makes it pretty likely that this is not just esoteric hypothesizing.

J

How about Burpee pullups? I heard those work burst power but I'm sure how that could help with speed climbing.

All you need is a timer, and a pullup bar or something similiar that requires one to jump up and grab in order to do the pullup.

The goal is to do them as quickly as possible. Start off with 20 for example, and record how long it takes to do them.

Start by jumping up and grabbing the bar, do a pullup, drop down, do a pushup, spring back up on your feet and jump up to the bar.
Thats 1 burpee pullup.


shockabuku


Mar 3, 2010, 9:07 AM
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Re: [PlasticHead] training for speed climbing competitions? [In reply to]
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Have you competed in this type of speed climbing comp before?

It appears to me that the most critical pieces of it are hand/foot eye coordination/being able to know where the big footholds are when you don't have time to look down at them and route reading and being able to execute that read at (relatively) high speed.

The routes are generally easy and fairly straightforward but as with any timed sport, even minor mistakes make the difference between finishing places.


PlasticHead


Mar 5, 2010, 9:38 AM
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shockabuku wrote:
Have you competed in this type of speed climbing comp before?

It appears to me that the most critical pieces of it are hand/foot eye coordination/being able to know where the big footholds are when you don't have time to look down at them and route reading and being able to execute that read at (relatively) high speed.

Like I said before, I want to be prepared and train hard for the comps, that way I can do the best I can.
Thanks for the advice btw.
The routes are generally easy and fairly straightforward but as with any timed sport, even minor mistakes make the difference between finishing places.


i_h8_choss


Mar 5, 2010, 12:22 PM
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well Im no comp climber, shit I just started in a gym. hehe. but.... some of the 5.9-5.10+ routes at my gym have a big pad under them so I solo up the first 30-40 feet up then down/up/down/up etc. until I cant feel anything. break. repeat.

my partner and I also let each other do laps of 5 - 10 on some routes sometimes.
good luck in the comp. I hope you win a pair of mad rocks or a sick beanie and chalk bag.


davidnn5


Mar 6, 2010, 9:41 PM
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i_h8_choss wrote:
well Im no comp climber, shit I just started in a gym. hehe. but.... some of the 5.9-5.10+ routes at my gym have a big pad under them so I solo up the first 30-40 feet up then down/up/down/up etc. until I cant feel anything. break. repeat.

my partner and I also let each other do laps of 5 - 10 on some routes sometimes.
good luck in the comp. I hope you win a pair of mad rocks or a sick beanie and chalk bag.

Amazed your gym lets you solo that far - how big a pad are we talking here?! Or is it a rope solo...


i_h8_choss


Mar 7, 2010, 1:54 AM
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davidnn5 wrote:
i_h8_choss wrote:
well Im no comp climber, shit I just started in a gym. hehe. but.... some of the 5.9-5.10+ routes at my gym have a big pad under them so I solo up the first 30-40 feet up then down/up/down/up etc. until I cant feel anything. break. repeat.

my partner and I also let each other do laps of 5 - 10 on some routes sometimes.
good luck in the comp. I hope you win a pair of mad rocks or a sick beanie and chalk bag.

Amazed your gym lets you solo that far - how big a pad are we talking here?! Or is it a rope solo...


it's a solo. the pad is about 1/2 meter thick. they have a liine about half way up the route yer not supposed to cross, but nobody cares. it's a pretty small gym. in the afternoon. not many people around.


deltav


Mar 16, 2010, 8:08 PM
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Re: [PlasticHead] training for speed climbing competitions? [In reply to]
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There are 2 main styles of speed climbing: the paddle and the frog (think free style and butterfly in swimming). Most Americans use the frog style.

To train for this, you need to work not only on speed, but power, specifically explosive power. Here are a few suggestions for training.

Squats
Swim the breast stroke
Jump rope
Sprints (working on that explosive power)
Run stairs
Climb a jug haul while smearing
Sit -Ups
Push -ups
Closed leg knee tucks
Open leg knee tucks
Up-downs
Jumping Jacks
Any sort of polymetrics
Practice deadpoints
Practice dynos

Hope this helps!

Make sure you are registered for USAC and competing at locals if you want to make it to regionals.


PlasticHead


Mar 17, 2010, 7:45 AM
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deltav wrote:
There are 2 main styles of speed climbing: the paddle and the frog (think free style and butterfly in swimming). Most Americans use the frog style.

To train for this, you need to work not only on speed, but power, specifically explosive power. Here are a few suggestions for training.

Squats
Swim the breast stroke
Jump rope
Sprints (working on that explosive power)
Run stairs
Climb a jug haul while smearing
Sit -Ups
Push -ups
Closed leg knee tucks
Open leg knee tucks
Up-downs
Jumping Jacks
Any sort of polymetrics
Practice deadpoints
Practice dynos

Hope this helps!

Make sure you are registered for USAC and competing at locals if you want to make it to regionals.

hey thanks! these are all great ideas to help me improve! I'm going to regionals in a few months, so I'll practice up until then. Cool


deltav


Mar 17, 2010, 5:20 PM
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I hope they help. Don't forget, you have to compete in 3 locals in order to qualify for regionals.

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