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Ondra repeats Golpe de Estado, 9b (5.15b)
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yokese


Mar 15, 2010, 2:49 PM
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Ondra repeats Golpe de Estado, 9b (5.15b)
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Adam Ondra climbs his hardest route yet: 9b.
http://www.czechclimbing.com/clanek.php?key=8512

He's now 17 yo. Will we see the 9c soon?


I_do


Mar 15, 2010, 3:38 PM
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Re: [yokese] Ondra repeats Golpe de Estado, 9b (5.15b) [In reply to]
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yokese wrote:
Adam Ondra climbs his hardest route yet: 9b.
http://www.czechclimbing.com/clanek.php?key=8512

He's now 17 yo. Will we see the 9c soon?

Yes, but from this dude:



johnwesely


Mar 15, 2010, 5:00 PM
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Re: [I_do] Ondra repeats Golpe de Estado, 9b (5.15b) [In reply to]
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Tasty.


lena_chita
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Mar 15, 2010, 5:46 PM
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Re: [yokese] Ondra repeats Golpe de Estado, 9b (5.15b) [In reply to]
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Random piece of trivia from the latest DPM:

21-- number of routes 5.14d and harder climbed by Chris Sharma

41-- number of routes 5.14d and harder climbed by Adam Ondra.

Given his age, I'd say that yes, we are likely to see him take climbing to new level.

Edited b/c I missed a critical letter...


(This post was edited by lena_chita on Mar 16, 2010, 7:03 AM)


rock_ranger


Mar 15, 2010, 6:59 PM
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Re: [lena_chita] Ondra repeats Golpe de Estado, 9b (5.15b) [In reply to]
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21 seems awfully low given how long he's climbed, but then again Chris hasn't kept a score card for sometime now. Or grade many of his routes/problem for that matter. But he was doing .14c at 14 years old.

He has 10 FA's of 5.15 or harder too.... Adam is going to exceed what Chris has done, it's just a matter of time. oh, and he'll do .15c when Sharma puts one up for him to second..Wink


dont.trip


Mar 15, 2010, 7:31 PM
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Re: [lena_chita] Ondra repeats Golpe de Estado, 9b (5.15b) [In reply to]
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lena_chita wrote:
Random piece of trivia from the latest DPM:

21-- number of routes 5.14d and harder climbed by Chris Sharma

41-- number of routes 5.14 and harder climbed by Adam Ondra.

Given his age, I'd say that yes, we are likely to see him take climbing to new level.

That seems like an odd comparison doesn't it? It almost actually favors Shrama...there is a big difference between climbing 21 14a's and 21 14d-15b's...


skibum14


Mar 15, 2010, 7:35 PM
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Re: [rock_ranger] Ondra repeats Golpe de Estado, 9b (5.15b) [In reply to]
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Obviously not a completely valid comparison. I'd be curious to see how many routes 5.14 and up Sharma has climbed, as well as how many 5.14d and up Ondra has climbed.

That aside, I read in a magazine once that Sharma understood how every other climber in the world did what they did, except Adam Ondra. He basically said he thought the kid was going to take climbing to the next level.


cjon3s


Mar 15, 2010, 8:52 PM
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Re: [skibum14] Ondra repeats Golpe de Estado, 9b (5.15b) [In reply to]
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i believe it may have been missed, but the comparison was between how many 5.14d's each has climbed. so their comparison was valid.


dont.trip


Mar 15, 2010, 9:08 PM
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Re: [cjon3s] Ondra repeats Golpe de Estado, 9b (5.15b) [In reply to]
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cjon3s wrote:
i believe it may have been missed, but the comparison was between how many 5.14d's each has climbed. so their comparison was valid.

Oh, as it is typed, it is 14d vs 14...I guess we should have assumed?


fxgranite


Mar 15, 2010, 11:17 PM
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Re: [lena_chita] Ondra repeats Golpe de Estado, 9b (5.15b) [In reply to]
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lena_chita wrote:
21-- number of routes 5.14d and harder climbed by Chris Sharma

41-- number of routes 5.14d and harder climbed by Adam Ondra.

Looks like there was some confusion. It is in fact a direct comparison if you look at the latest DPM.

I want to see Ondra start putting up his own stuff. We get it. You're super strong and talented, now go make something of yourself and push those boundaries.


lena_chita
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Mar 16, 2010, 7:03 AM
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Re: [fxgranite] Ondra repeats Golpe de Estado, 9b (5.15b) [In reply to]
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fxgranite wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
21-- number of routes 5.14d and harder climbed by Chris Sharma

41-- number of routes 5.14d and harder climbed by Adam Ondra.

Looks like there was some confusion. It is in fact a direct comparison if you look at the latest DPM.

I want to see Ondra start putting up his own stuff. We get it. You're super strong and talented, now go make something of yourself and push those boundaries.

Thanks for the correction-- it was a typo...


mturner


Mar 16, 2010, 7:06 AM
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Re: [lena_chita] Ondra repeats Golpe de Estado, 9b (5.15b) [In reply to]
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lena_chita wrote:
Random piece of trivia from the latest DPM:

21-- number of routes 5.14d and harder climbed by Chris Sharma

41-- number of routes 5.14d and harder climbed by Adam Ondra.

Given his age, I'd say that yes, we are likely to see him take climbing to new level.

Edited b/c I missed a critical letter...

What's your source on this? 8a? As someone said, Sharma doesn't really keep a scorecard.


I_do


Mar 16, 2010, 7:25 AM
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Re: [mturner] Ondra repeats Golpe de Estado, 9b (5.15b) [In reply to]
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mturner wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
Random piece of trivia from the latest DPM:

21-- number of routes 5.14d and harder climbed by Chris Sharma

41-- number of routes 5.14d and harder climbed by Adam Ondra.

Given his age, I'd say that yes, we are likely to see him take climbing to new level.

Edited b/c I missed a critical letter...

What's your source on this? 8a? As someone said, Sharma doesn't really keep a scorecard.

The source is at the top of the quote...


bigjonnyc


Mar 16, 2010, 8:56 AM
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Re: [mturner] Ondra repeats Golpe de Estado, 9b (5.15b) [In reply to]
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mturner wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
Random piece of trivia from the latest DPM:

21-- number of routes 5.14d and harder climbed by Chris Sharma

41-- number of routes 5.14d and harder climbed by Adam Ondra.

Given his age, I'd say that yes, we are likely to see him take climbing to new level.

Edited b/c I missed a critical letter...

What's your source on this? 8a? As someone said, Sharma doesn't really keep a scorecard.

He may not, but he's been so closely watched for so long now that I'm guessing this number is pretty close.


lena_chita
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Mar 16, 2010, 9:19 AM
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Re: [mturner] Ondra repeats Golpe de Estado, 9b (5.15b) [In reply to]
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mturner wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
Random piece of trivia from the latest DPM:

21-- number of routes 5.14d and harder climbed by Chris Sharma

41-- number of routes 5.14d and harder climbed by Adam Ondra.

Given his age, I'd say that yes, we are likely to see him take climbing to new level.

Edited b/c I missed a critical letter...

What's your source on this? 8a? As someone said, Sharma doesn't really keep a scorecard.

DPM= Deadpoint Magazine.


mturner


Mar 17, 2010, 7:08 AM
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Re: [lena_chita] Ondra repeats Golpe de Estado, 9b (5.15b) [In reply to]
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lena_chita wrote:
mturner wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
Random piece of trivia from the latest DPM:

21-- number of routes 5.14d and harder climbed by Chris Sharma

41-- number of routes 5.14d and harder climbed by Adam Ondra.

Given his age, I'd say that yes, we are likely to see him take climbing to new level.

Edited b/c I missed a critical letter...

What's your source on this? 8a? As someone said, Sharma doesn't really keep a scorecard.

DPM= Deadpoint Magazine.

sorry missed that. Still, I'd like to see where they got those numbers.


wallwombat


Mar 18, 2010, 6:14 AM
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Re: [mturner] Ondra repeats Golpe de Estado, 9b (5.15b) [In reply to]
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I agree that Ondra is a phenomenon but Sharma seems to spend most of his time climbing really hard first ascents and doesn't do that many repeats. Ondra does lots of repeats and repeats seldom take as long as first ascents. I don't know why this is the case but I I believe it is.


MS1


Mar 18, 2010, 7:12 AM
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Re: [wallwombat] Ondra repeats Golpe de Estado, 9b (5.15b) [In reply to]
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Ondra already has one (proposed) 5.15a/b FA to his name ... give him time, and I'm sure we will see plenty more. If anything, he is probably doing a service to the community by repeating so many of the hardest sport routes; pretty soon, his opinion as to the proper demarcations between 9a, 9a+ and 9b will be the most authoritative source available.


I_do


Mar 18, 2010, 8:45 AM
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Re: [MS1] Ondra repeats Golpe de Estado, 9b (5.15b) [In reply to]
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MS1 wrote:
Ondra already has one (proposed) 5.15a/b FA to his name ... give him time, and I'm sure we will see plenty more. If anything, he is probably doing a service to the community by repeating so many of the hardest sport routes; pretty soon, his opinion as to the proper demarcations between 9a, 9a+ and 9b will be the most authoritative source available.

He had the FA but didn't find the line himself. Chris is the one with the eye imho.


caughtinside


Mar 18, 2010, 12:58 PM
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Re: [I_do] Ondra repeats Golpe de Estado, 9b (5.15b) [In reply to]
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I_do wrote:
MS1 wrote:
Ondra already has one (proposed) 5.15a/b FA to his name ... give him time, and I'm sure we will see plenty more. If anything, he is probably doing a service to the community by repeating so many of the hardest sport routes; pretty soon, his opinion as to the proper demarcations between 9a, 9a+ and 9b will be the most authoritative source available.

He had the FA but didn't find the line himself. Chris is the one with the eye imho.

He's 16. Sharma started out the same way, he wasn't bolting lines but he was going after the hardest routes in the US along with already bolted but unsent open projects, like necessary evil and the biographie extension.

Bolting is a ton of work and takes lots of time and know how. I imagine Ondra will get into it down the line as he will quickly need new cutting edge routes.


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