|
USnavy
Mar 18, 2010, 1:18 PM
Post #1 of 84
(32974 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 6, 2007
Posts: 2667
|
Can someone point me towards a table showing a list of the V grades with the equivalent 5th class free climbing comparison grade? I have seen them before but am now unable to find one for some reason. 
|
|
|
|
|
edge
Mar 18, 2010, 1:25 PM
Post #2 of 84
(32961 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 14, 2003
Posts: 9120
|
|
|
|
|
|
j_ung
Mar 18, 2010, 1:30 PM
Post #4 of 84
(32953 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690
|
Good gawd! Check out the variance between what edge posted and what I posted!
|
|
|
|
|
Ammex
Mar 18, 2010, 2:05 PM
Post #6 of 84
(32916 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 9, 2010
Posts: 4
|
j_ung wrote: Good gawd! Check out the variance between what edge posted and what I posted!
At least we know people who are projecting V0s can climb 5.10c!
|
|
|
|
|
edge
Mar 18, 2010, 2:16 PM
Post #7 of 84
(32907 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 14, 2003
Posts: 9120
|
I_do wrote: USnavy wrote: Can someone point me towards a table showing a list of the V grades with the equivalent 5th class free climbing comparison grade? I have seen them before but am now unable to find one for some reason. Why would you want such a chart? They're completely useless.
That is why I didn't comment, just posted the 8A.nu chart which I saw once and got a good chuckle out of.
|
|
|
|
|
Storjon
Mar 18, 2010, 2:17 PM
Post #8 of 84
(32907 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 22, 2009
Posts: 38
|
Apples and pears really. The chart USNavy posted is a bit confusing though as french route and boulder grades dont match, font 6A is about 7a lead crux.
When you bring in the local sandbag/grade inflation/history factor charts become even more useless.
|
|
|
|
|
camhead
Mar 18, 2010, 2:23 PM
Post #9 of 84
(32894 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
|
Edge's list is a bit off from about all others that I have seen, but that just shows what a messy topic this is.
Most comparisons I have seen are roughly like this:
v0 = less than 5.10
v1 = 5.10+/11-
v2 = solid 5.11
v3 = 11+
v4 = 12-
v5 = 12
v6 =12+
v7 = 13-
v8 = 13
v9 =13+
v10 = 14-
But there is no easy, direct correlation between v grades and YDS grades, largely because of the whole evening out difficulty according to individual hard moves and/or endurance. Even boulder problems are sometimes graded on endurance, rather than hardest moves right now.
On extreme ends of the spectrum, I have known 5.13 climbers who could not climb v5, and I have known v10 climbers who could not climb certain 12a's.
All the chart above is saying is that you should in theory NEVER find a 5.13a that has a move single HARDER than solid Hueco Tanks v7. However, you will frequently find 13a's that never have a single move as hard as v7. I know of plenty of climbs at that grade which have sustained v2 moves to a v5 crux, and they are most definitely solid at 5.13a.
Hope that makes sense.
|
|
|
|
|
lena_chita
Moderator
Mar 18, 2010, 2:30 PM
Post #11 of 84
(32882 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087
|
j_ung wrote: Good gawd! Check out the variance between what edge posted and what I posted!
Seriously!
I think the chart in your link is way closer to reality (5.10 sport route has no moves harder than ~V0), but it is pretty meaningless to compare bouldering grades with route grades...
|
|
|
|
|
edge
Mar 18, 2010, 2:30 PM
Post #12 of 84
(32880 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 14, 2003
Posts: 9120
|
Now we know why Gill's B grades were so awesome.
|
|
|
|
|
iron106
Mar 18, 2010, 3:05 PM
Post #13 of 84
(32858 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 7, 2008
Posts: 213
|
This is way I scale it
V0 easiest
V1
V2
V3
V4
V5
V6
V7
V8
V9
V10
V11
V12
V13
V14
V15 hardest
in comparison to the YDS.
5.0 easiest
5.1
5.2
5.3
5.4
5.5
5.6
5.7
5.8
5.9
5.10
5.11
5.12
5.13
5.14
5.15 Hardest
Generally that is the easiest way to match them up.
|
|
|
|
|
I_do
Mar 18, 2010, 3:43 PM
Post #14 of 84
(32830 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 2, 2008
Posts: 1232
|
iron106 wrote: This is way I scale it V0 easiest V1 V2 V3 V4 V5 V6 V7 V8 V9 V10 V11 V12 V13 V14 V15 hardest in comparison to the YDS. 5.0 easiest 5.1 5.2 5.3 5.4 5.5 5.6 5.7 5.8 5.9 5.10 5.11 5.12 5.13 5.14 5.15 Hardest Generally that is the easiest way to match them up.
Awesome. Trophy.
|
|
|
|
|
I_do
Mar 18, 2010, 3:45 PM
Post #15 of 84
(32825 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 2, 2008
Posts: 1232
|
edge wrote: Now we know why Gill's B grades were so awesome.
They might have been for him, but do nothing for me.
|
|
|
|
|
vegastradguy
Mar 18, 2010, 5:21 PM
Post #17 of 84
(32757 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919
|
great, according to 8a, i boulder about .10b.
|
|
|
|
|
davidnn5
Mar 18, 2010, 9:45 PM
Post #19 of 84
(32660 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 8, 2009
Posts: 348
|
j_ung wrote: USnavy wrote: Can someone point me towards a table showing a list of the V grades with the equivalent 5th class free climbing comparison grade? I have seen them before but am now unable to find one for some reason. V scale to YDS seems to be all over the board based on who writes out the chart. Perhaps that just illustrates the subjective nature of climbing grades? Maybe all we really need to know is that V6 is harder than V5, and so on. Anyway, here's what Spadout says about it. http://www.spadout.com/....php/Climbing_Grades
Good lord! Spadout thinks one-hand climbs are 5.5? Although in some ways it makes sense that a 4 in Australia is a 5.1 - before that, it's just a scramble.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...Conversions_529.html
... rockclimbing.com conversion chart (have to convert to french grade then to bouldering grade).
|
|
|
|
|
davidnn5
Mar 18, 2010, 9:49 PM
Post #20 of 84
(32656 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 8, 2009
Posts: 348
|
camhead wrote: Edge's list is a bit off from about all others that I have seen, but that just shows what a messy topic this is. Most comparisons I have seen are roughly like this: v0 = less than 5.10 v1 = 5.10+/11- v2 = solid 5.11 v3 = 11+ v4 = 12- v5 = 12 v6 =12+ v7 = 13- v8 = 13 v9 =13+ v10 = 14- But there is no easy, direct correlation between v grades and YDS grades, largely because of the whole evening out difficulty according to individual hard moves and/or endurance. Even boulder problems are sometimes graded on endurance, rather than hardest moves right now. On extreme ends of the spectrum, I have known 5.13 climbers who could not climb v5, and I have known v10 climbers who could not climb certain 12a's. All the chart above is saying is that you should in theory NEVER find a 5.13a that has a move single HARDER than solid Hueco Tanks v7. However, you will frequently find 13a's that never have a single move as hard as v7. I know of plenty of climbs at that grade which have sustained v2 moves to a v5 crux, and they are most definitely solid at 5.13a. Hope that makes sense.
This:
http://www.australianbouldering.com/table.html
roughly agrees with you (probably a bit harsh on the low end). It's probably the best conversion I've seen, again not that it's particularly useful.
Edit: In Australian parlance, the table suggests add 21. If you can climb V5, you may get up a 26 (5.12b). If you climb V15, you should manage 36 (5.15a).
(This post was edited by davidnn5 on Mar 18, 2010, 9:54 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
I_do
Mar 18, 2010, 11:01 PM
Post #21 of 84
(32625 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 2, 2008
Posts: 1232
|
k.l.k wrote: edge wrote: [image]http://www.8a.nu/images/10/10_633609633752980636_gradjmfjpg.jpg[/image] This chart bears no relation to any of the many other charts that try to translate Vermin into YDS. See for instance, the one Curt did for Sherman's Stone Crusade. Jens's conversions from Fontainebleau into V grades are better and are much closer to consensus conversion tables. Jens is also way out there in what he's done to the E-grades. Read the comments that follow the chart over at 8a.nu
That chart is not intended to compare bouldering grades with route grades. It's a route climbing table and a bouldering grade table fused together at the hip
|
|
|
|
|
k.l.k
Mar 18, 2010, 11:26 PM
Post #22 of 84
(32617 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 9, 2007
Posts: 1190
|
I_do wrote: k.l.k wrote: edge wrote: [image]http://www.8a.nu/images/10/10_633609633752980636_gradjmfjpg.jpg[/image] This chart bears no relation to any of the many other charts that try to translate Vermin into YDS. See for instance, the one Curt did for Sherman's Stone Crusade. Jens's conversions from Fontainebleau into V grades are better and are much closer to consensus conversion tables. Jens is also way out there in what he's done to the E-grades. Read the comments that follow the chart over at 8a.nu That chart is not intended to compare bouldering grades with route grades. It's a route climbing table and a bouldering grade table fused together at the hip
I thought it was supposed to provide a graphic example of the line Jens is pushing about how we could quantitatively translate bouldering performances into sport grades. Sort of on par with his attempt to use a quantification method-- so many tries, over so many days, by boulderer x will = whatever.
8a.nu has had a really nasty effect. I don't blame Jens (I don't even know the guy)-- he's a symptom and not a cause.
|
|
|
|
|
bradley3297
Mar 19, 2010, 12:27 AM
Post #23 of 84
(32587 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 5, 2008
Posts: 83
|
theres no fucking way v6 is anywhere near 11d sorry to say.
|
|
|
|
|
supersonick
Mar 19, 2010, 4:28 PM
Post #25 of 84
(32491 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 18, 2002
Posts: 157
|
I think for harder stuff, these grades should feel about the same in terms of total amount of effort needed to get your ass up the climb:
V5 <-> 12c
V6 <-> 12d
V7 <-> 13a
V8 <-> 13b
V9 <-> 13c
V10 <-> 13d
V11 <-> 14a
V12 <-> 14b
I also think all bouldering grades should have a +/- 2 attached to them because of differences in climbers' morphology.
All just one man's opinion though...
edit: my little table is for bouldering <-> sport climbing
(This post was edited by supersonick on Mar 19, 2010, 4:54 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
