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Research: Cordelette vs. Equalette.
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joewtc


Mar 22, 2010, 10:00 PM
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Research: Cordelette vs. Equalette.
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This research might clear the debate between the Cordelette and Equalette.

http://www.shariconglobal.com/misc/climbing/A_Look_at_Load-Distributing_and_Load-Sharing_Anchor_Systems.pdf

Conclusion of the Research:
- None of the anchor did a great job at equally sharing the load
- Cordelette has the lowest "Maximum Arrest Forces" 4kN (other anchors are several times more)

Any ideas guys?


Storjon


Mar 22, 2010, 11:48 PM
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Re: [joewtc] Research: Cordelette vs. Equalette. [In reply to]
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Yes, alla is well as long as you have OK pieces in the rock, and if you dont, well then consider your options and dont fall.

We really dont need another thread about this and that report has been discussed at length already..


joewtc


Mar 22, 2010, 11:52 PM
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Re: [Storjon] Research: Cordelette vs. Equalette. [In reply to]
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Really? I didn't know there's a discussion of this report already. I have searched extensively few months ago about equalette and cordelette in this site. Can you send me the specific threads regarding to the report?


Storjon


Mar 23, 2010, 12:00 AM
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Re: [joewtc] Research: Cordelette vs. Equalette. [In reply to]
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Check The Lab:
A Look at Load Distributing and Load Sharing Anchor Systems.


joewtc


Mar 23, 2010, 12:14 AM
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Re: [Storjon] Research: Cordelette vs. Equalette. [In reply to]
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Thanks Storjon. The more I learn, the more things I find to learn. Good!


NelsonDay


Feb 2, 2011, 2:50 PM
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Re: [joewtc] Research: Cordelette vs. Equalette. [In reply to]
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I have a report from Sterling Ropes of testing they did on Equalette vs Cordalette. The equalette was far superior when the arms of the rope were different lengths. It equalized the load much better. I have switched to equalettes, and they are not only easier and faster to set up, but I have found that they do indeed equalize the load much better between the anchors. Good stuff. The book I am referencing is "Climbing Anchors 2nd edition (How to Climb series)". It is a Falcoln guide book and available at Amazon.com. Great read and well worth the money.


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