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Petit Dru - Directe Americane
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Alek


Mar 28, 2010, 12:13 PM
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Petit Dru - Directe Americane
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Hey :)

Any1 knows if some1 did Directe Americane on Petit Dru after the last rockfall? If yes, is the route like original line or rockfall destroyed upper parts of the route? I was there last year but we did it only to block Coince and we didn't see what is above... This year we are coming back on Dru - to the top, we hope :).

Thanks in advance


dretket


Mar 28, 2010, 12:46 PM
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Re: [Alek] Petit Dru - Directe Americane [In reply to]
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Jonny Copp and Micah Dash attempted the Dru a while back, following the rock fall. They had to turn back after an avalanche nearly took them out. You can read about it in climbing magazine. Dash mentioned that many of the routes had been destroyed.


Alek


Mar 28, 2010, 1:33 PM
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Re: [dretket] Petit Dru - Directe Americane [In reply to]
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Yeah, but I am curious about this one route - "Directe Americane" - It seems that it lies on the edge of the rockfall so maybe it is possible to climb it.

I also heard that it is possible to traverse to the Allain route on the north face of Dru after the two hardest (6c) pitches on Directe Americane (about 2-3 pitches above block Coince)...

Unfortunately I don't have any access to Climbing Magazine archives (is it available online?).

Thanks for your reply,
Cheers


altelis


Mar 28, 2010, 1:36 PM
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Re: [dretket] Petit Dru - Directe Americane [In reply to]
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dretket wrote:
Jonny Copp and Micah Dash attempted the Dru a while back, following the rock fall. They had to turn back after an avalanche nearly took them out. You can read about it in climbing magazine. Dash mentioned that many of the routes had been destroyed.

I could be wrong, and in the end it doesn't really matter, but my understanding was they got hit by a storm, bivied, and bailed the next morning and the avalanche nearly took them off while packing up at the base of the route after bailing....


yves


Mar 29, 2010, 6:59 AM
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Re: [Alek] Petit Dru - Directe Americane [In reply to]
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Hi

As you might already know, one of the option is to call either the Office de Haute Montagne (OHM: 00334505322080; they are usually pretty well informed) or the PGHM (Rescue Gendarmes) both in Chamonix, although it might be a little too early in season to get the infos .

You could also wish to post (even in English) at CamptoCamp, which is the equivalent of rockclimbing.com in France/Europe.


adnix


Mar 29, 2010, 12:51 PM
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Re: [yves] Petit Dru - Directe Americane [In reply to]
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yves wrote:
As you might already know, one of the option is to call either the Office de Haute Montagne (OHM: 00334505322080; they are usually pretty well informed) or the PGHM (Rescue Gendarmes) both in Chamonix, although it might be a little too early in season to get the infos.

Every time I asked similar questions at OHM they said it's "out of condition". Don't bother with them. The OHM internet logbook doesn't show any complete ascents.

Here you have a good recent picture. You can decide yourself. Most probably it'll be a bit loose. I would leave a backup rope at the pendulum in case it's much harder than before.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/...dbpage.html?id=96472


Alek


Mar 29, 2010, 2:31 PM
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Re: [adnix] Petit Dru - Directe Americane [In reply to]
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Thanks for your replies.

I don't know what we will do but probably we will go on north face after 90m diedre... Although we are going there at second half of July - maybe som1 will try it before us :)


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