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heaton504


Apr 2, 2010, 5:14 PM
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el_layclimber


Apr 2, 2010, 6:04 PM
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Re: [heaton504] Developing Sedona/Oak Creek Canyon [In reply to]
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heaton504 wrote:
Hello Northern Arizona!! I am fairly new to AZ and very new to Sedona. I just cannot believe how amazing and beautiful it is here, and how undeveloped it is. I am interested in assisting in the development so all climbers can enjoy this beauty. So please if anyone wants another hand or wants to assist me then lets do it. Lets bring out the best of this place!

By developing, do you mean grid-bolting? Sedona is one of many areas in Arizona where people seem to agree that keeping permanent anchors to the absolute minimum is a great idea. "The best" of some places is the lack of a human presence/trace.


heaton504


Apr 3, 2010, 7:52 AM
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Re: [el_layclimber] Developing Sedona/Oak Creek Canyon [In reply to]
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I agree, however its already to late for that. I am appalled by the amount of off-roading trails, biking, and hiking. While I don't have anything personal against them, there is just no reason why we can't enjoy the land just as much in a much less harmful way. I will bolt, but whoever assist me and I will do it in the right way, and in the right places. I too want to leave as little trace as possible. The key is moderation.

In terms of this what would be the best bolts for this type of sandstone? Would you suggest glue-ins or would 5 piece be satisfactory?


el_layclimber


Apr 3, 2010, 8:57 AM
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Re: [heaton504] Developing Sedona/Oak Creek Canyon [In reply to]
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In that case, I suggest pitons.


irregularpanda


Apr 3, 2010, 11:15 AM
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Re: [heaton504] Developing Sedona/Oak Creek Canyon [In reply to]
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heaton504 wrote:
I agree, however its already to late for that. I am appalled by the amount of off-roading trails, biking, and hiking. While I don't have anything personal against them, there is just no reason why we can't enjoy the land just as much in a much less harmful way. I will bolt, but whoever assist me and I will do it in the right way, and in the right places. I too want to leave as little trace as possible. The key is moderation.

In terms of this what would be the best bolts for this type of sandstone? Would you suggest glue-ins or would 5 piece be satisfactory?

In that case, I would suggest not asking random people on the internet, but actually asking people who would like to develop this area with you, and have some stake in the long term stewardship of the region.

If you don't know how to bolt routes yet, or if you think grid bolting is preferable to some sort of minimalist bolting, then maybe you should get involved with some locals who have established an "ethic" for the area.

My apologies if you're already involved with someone you can mentor with in the sense of development. The reason I say this is because it sounds like you have no hesitation in grid bolting.


tyler


Apr 5, 2010, 3:08 PM
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Re: [el_layclimber] Developing Sedona/Oak Creek Canyon [In reply to]
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I'm sure he mean to just add a few bolts here and there to make the routes more safe. Dr. Rubo's could be a little safer. Also, if someone bolted the chimney and off-width sections of The Mace, it would actually save us money because we wouldn't have to spend so much money on Big Broz, lolz! But don't bolt at The Overlook. There are plenty of trees there for good anchor.


zeke_sf


Apr 5, 2010, 3:37 PM
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Re: [heaton504] Developing Sedona/Oak Creek Canyon [In reply to]
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Like others have, I would suggest learning more about what is there before adding more routes. For better or for worse, Arizona climbing seems to have many areas under the radar, so there may be a lot more there than you think. Learning the local ethic by climbing all the climbs you can there, meeting other FAists, etc., would probably serve you best. Then again, do whatever the hell you want.


markguycan


Aug 28, 2010, 8:16 PM
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Re: [tyler] Developing Sedona/Oak Creek Canyon [In reply to]
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sounds like a troll lurking


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