Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing:
Mescalito
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davidmorse


Apr 15, 2010, 5:38 AM
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Registered: Nov 13, 2008
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Mescalito
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Heading to the valley in a couple of weeks, anyone know how the Caldwell-Jorgeson free effort may affect the difficulty? im thinking alot of the fixed stuff may be replaced or stripped, anyone got any info?

any beta appreciated

thanks


boymeetsrock


Apr 15, 2010, 5:49 AM
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Registered: Feb 11, 2005
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Re: [davidmorse] Mescalito [In reply to]
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Did you post on SuperTopo? I think you may get a more informed response there on this question.

Have a great trip to the Valley!


shimanilami


Apr 16, 2010, 4:35 PM
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Re: [davidmorse] Mescalito [In reply to]
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I did Mescalito last fall, while Caldwell was working the route. The only pitches affected were P8-P9 (the two that follow a ramp system into the Molar Traverse ... I think those were P8-P9). Caldwell had cleaned that pitch entirely. Consequently, it was the only section that we had to nail.

Edit: I think we placed 4-6 Lost Arrows in that section, along with a lot of cam hooking.

Edit: I followed that section. As I cleaned, I was trying to imagine how Caldwell could possibly climb it. It occurred to me that his fingers must be as strong as cam hooks and that his footwork must be unbelievable. I guess that's what makes him the best.


(This post was edited by shimanilami on Apr 17, 2010, 10:13 AM)


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