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Best Indoor Boulder Problems
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jonesml5


Apr 15, 2010, 8:40 PM
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Best Indoor Boulder Problems
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Do others have pictures, videos, or perhaps they could provide descriptions of some of the best indoor boulder problems they have set or climbed?

I'd particularly be grateful for any in the V2 to V4 range I could try to mimic on my woodie, which is 10' high by 7' wide and 26 degrees past vertical, or on the other section I should have up soon that will be 9' high by 7' wide and about 10 degrees past vertical.

Any examples would great though, and I'm guessing others would be more interested in some harder problems.


Gmburns2000


Apr 15, 2010, 8:58 PM
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I once did this one problem that had a sit start on two crimps without feet. Then it went out left to a sloper where I had to match, swing my heel above my head, do this sicky sicky gnar gnar bump to another sloper before finishing on a dyno at the top.

it was graded at v2, but I thought it was a 1. is was sick gnar though brah.


altelis


Apr 16, 2010, 5:15 AM
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something we loved that you could practice on your woodie?

The stranger, perhaps?


johnwesely


Apr 16, 2010, 5:28 AM
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The best indoor boulder problems are the ones having the most fun!


dynosore


Apr 16, 2010, 5:44 AM
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jonesml5 wrote:
Do others have pictures, videos, or perhaps they could provide descriptions of some of the best indoor boulder problems they have set or climbed?

I'd particularly be grateful for any in the V2 to V4 range I could try to mimic on my woodie, which is 10' high by 7' wide and 26 degrees past vertical, or on the other section I should have up soon that will be 9' high by 7' wide and about 10 degrees past vertical.

Any examples would great though, and I'm guessing others would be more interested in some harder problems.

I had an awesome problem on my 25 degree wall but yours is 26 so no go.


dbogardus


Apr 16, 2010, 6:29 AM
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One time I was just sitting on the toilet and all of a sudden the floor turned into lava. I two moved along the rod that holds up the shower curtain, crimped the top of the door and stemmed all the way down the hallway. Then someone set a tiger loose in my house. It almost had me but I did this heddy flag move on the ceiling fan at the last second and it jumped out the window by accident as it pounced.


...I eventually cooled the lava with a bucket of water.


jonesml5


Apr 16, 2010, 6:41 AM
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Ok ok, nice ones all. I suppose my first post was a little specific, but I was hoping to start a general collection of people's best problems.

Do people really think that it is not worth documenting and sharing some of the best on this? I know some will say just climb and have fun, but given that there is at least one book and one profession on setting, I would think there would be some interest.

On the other hand, some of these replies are pretty funny...


acorneau


Apr 16, 2010, 7:20 AM
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jonesml5 wrote:
Do others have pictures, videos, or perhaps they could provide descriptions of some of the best indoor boulder problems they have set or climbed?

I'd particularly be grateful for any in the V2 to V4 range I could try to mimic on my woodie, which is 10' high by 7' wide and 26 degrees past vertical, or on the other section I should have up soon that will be 9' high by 7' wide and about 10 degrees past vertical.

Any examples would great though, and I'm guessing others would be more interested in some harder problems.


There are some videos in the threads here:

http://www.routesetter.com/forum/


edge


Apr 16, 2010, 7:49 AM
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Are you anywhere near decent outdoor bouldering? Maybe try to set routes that mimic an outdoor problem or project.

Mother Nature is the supreme routesetter.


ax


Apr 16, 2010, 7:51 AM
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johnwesely wrote:
The best indoor boulder problems are the ones having the most fun!

+1


kaizen


Apr 16, 2010, 8:21 AM
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The guy in this video (Ian Irving) pulls down way hard, but it's still a great example of forced movement:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NY0z5vI8aPQ

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eybA9pyXcbI&NR=1

This guy is one of the head routesetters for ABS I believe:

http://www.youtube.com/user/studyingmovement


Carnage


Apr 16, 2010, 10:20 AM
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Re: [edge] Best Indoor Boulder Problems [In reply to]
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edge wrote:
Are you anywhere near decent outdoor bouldering? Maybe try to set routes that mimic an outdoor problem or project.

Mother Nature is the supreme routesetter.

almost all he really good routes i've ever set were just me trying to copy this move i did outside one time.

They never come out exactly like the original, but they give you good inspiration on how to make the route go.


jonesml5


Apr 17, 2010, 10:06 PM
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Re: [kaizen] Best Indoor Boulder Problems [In reply to]
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Thanks all, appreciate the help.

acorneau, routesetter.com is very useful. From reading around on it a bit, looks like there used to be a lot more posts on the boards there that were lost in a transition to the new site? Louie Anderson's book is also excellent and helpful, but as I haven't had much experience setting and don't really have any folks around to mentor, some basic examples to get some ideas going would help a lot.

kaizen, thanks for the links, those are some amazing moves.

edge and carnage, the nature inspiration does seem like the way to go. I've tried this a bit, and am working on consciously remember interesting sequences better. I'm in Tbilisi, Georgia. Most of the rock in Caucauses is pretty crumbly, but there is also some nice climbable rock around. The best area is a nice limestone area which the local climbers are developing. There's not much bouldering, but the cruxes on the sport climbs have some pretty interesting moves that can be translated to a bouldering wall.

I know I need to just keep on setting, thinking about it, and it will improve. I'm more of an outdoor climber, but for the obvious reasons it's necessary, helpful, and fun to have an indoor option as well. Just trying to do what I can to make it as interesting as possible indoors. Thanks again for the thoughts and links!


jbk641


May 1, 2010, 10:34 AM
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This may sound elementary but on my garage wall I set up the routes and try to make them a challenge..However they always seem to be doable after a couple tries so there is an inherant obstacle in setting route way out of your grade to practice on,,,,,,,,untill,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
The other day I gave my 10 year old a laser pointer and asked her to point out a route for me..She doesnt understand the finer points of routesetting but she does know how to make her Dad struggle..She was slow and methodical about where i could reach to next..Some were crazy and way out of line but the body mechanics and locking off and foot re-placement necessary was one of the best training idea ive done..I guess one could then tape of the route afterward...She didn't make it easy...I was forced to stepp out of my comfort zone which is easy to do on your own routes...

give it a try and tell me how it goes

Jason


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