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USnavy
Apr 24, 2010, 6:45 AM
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I have a Yates Shield that I want to use for my next big wall trip. However I don't like the fact that it only has one belay loop. I would like to have it replaced with two belay loops. Does anyone know of a manufacturer that would be willing to do this?
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shimanilami
Apr 24, 2010, 6:58 AM
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Have you tried Yates?
I'll save you the trouble. They won't do it and will advise you that it's a bad idea. The problem is that their tie in points are not made to withstand the forces that might be generated if the two belay loops are pulled in opposite directions. They'll also tell you the Metolius harness suffers the same risk.
This said, they're obviously covering their ass. If you're careful to avoid this situation, I would seem safe. You might try Larry at Mountain Tools. Or you might try girth hitching through your tie-in points instead of your belay loop.
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yodadave
Apr 24, 2010, 4:09 PM
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First why do you need two?
I would try Misty Mountain or OnRope1
but I really can't think why it would be necessary?
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USnavy
Apr 24, 2010, 5:43 PM
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acorneau wrote: USnavy wrote: I have a Yates Shield that I want to use for my next big wall trip. However I don't like the fact that it only has one belay loop. I would like to have it replaced with two belay loops. Does anyone know of a manufacturer that would be willing to do this? I won't ask why you want to replace one belay loop with two new loops instead just adding one new loop, but whatever...  I'm sure some of the manufacturers, like Misty, would a second belay loop on a newly-ordered harness but I doubt any would put a new loop on an "old" one. Liability and all that. [edit for clarity]  They both need to be the same. :)
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altelis
Apr 24, 2010, 5:46 PM
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USnavy wrote: acorneau wrote: USnavy wrote: I have a Yates Shield that I want to use for my next big wall trip. However I don't like the fact that it only has one belay loop. I would like to have it replaced with two belay loops. Does anyone know of a manufacturer that would be willing to do this? I won't ask why you want to replace one belay loop with two new loops instead just adding one new loop, but whatever... I'm sure some of the manufacturers, like Misty, would a second belay loop on a newly-ordered harness but I doubt any would put a new loop on an "old" one. Liability and all that. [edit for clarity] Well my Shield looks new, its only been used a few times. I want to replace the loops instead of add one because I dont want the stock 1" brown loop with some Petzl 3/8" green dyneema one. That would look dumb. They both need to be the same. :)
Seems if you actually wanted TWO belay loops it would be easier if they WEREN'T the same color....
If you are looking to backup your belay loop there are much quicker/cheaper alternatives than having one sewn on....
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grahamh
Apr 25, 2010, 2:04 PM
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Any outdoor store that sews new webbing on cams, and many do, could do this. Just make a few calls to your local climbing shops.
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jeepnphreak
Apr 25, 2010, 6:00 PM
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It might be easier to look at the BD "big gun" it already hase two belay loops. Instead of modifying a harness that has not been desigened fot two for what ever reason. jut get on that already has two loops and for go the hastle of modifying you current harness. Just my 2 cents
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USnavy
Apr 26, 2010, 7:24 AM
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I already own the Big Gun, I use it for multi-pitch free climbing. However contrary to BD's advertising, its not a big wall aid harness, it’s not that comfortable or reinforced. The Shield however is well suited for big walls which why I would like two belay loops on it. 
(This post was edited by USnavy on Apr 26, 2010, 7:25 AM)
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dugl33
Apr 26, 2010, 4:45 PM
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I'm pretty sure Yates will do it for you. I suggest you call them.
Or get a metolius waldo.
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USnavy
Apr 26, 2010, 4:52 PM
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dugl33 wrote: I'm pretty sure Yates will do it for you. I suggest you call them. Or get a metolius waldo. [Inline metolius_waldo.jpg]
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dugl33
Apr 26, 2010, 4:56 PM
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Phone: (530)222-4606
Yates phone number...
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redlude97
Apr 26, 2010, 5:31 PM
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Maybe not the answer you are looking for, but a friend who has done a bit of big wall including guiding on el cap uses a double wrap of cord with triple fishermans wrapped in duct tape for a second belay loop
He is a bit of a dirtbag climber though and we're actually gathering a money pool to get him a new harness which is barely held together right now, so YMMV
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gmggg
Apr 26, 2010, 5:45 PM
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USnavy wrote: dugl33 wrote: I'm pretty sure Yates will do it for you. I suggest you call them. Or get a metolius waldo. [Inline metolius_waldo.jpg] Yep I have a Waldo, its a nice harness. However it lacks the gear loops for a serious route IMO. The big thing about the Shield is it has a billion loops which makes it easy to rack stuff that doesent belong on the gear sling.
Wouldn't it be easier to add gear loops to this harness rather than adding a belay loop to the shield? A couple of lengths of perlon a couple of knots, maybe a couple lengths of vinyl hosing if you want to get fancy...
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sspssp
Apr 26, 2010, 6:13 PM
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redlude97 wrote: Maybe not the answer you are looking for, but a friend who has done a bit of big wall including guiding on el cap uses a double wrap of cord with triple fishermans wrapped in duct tape for a second belay loop He is a bit of a dirtbag climber though and we're actually gathering a money pool to get him a new harness which is barely held together right now, so YMMV
I tried this. Once. After the duct tape got worn and sticky, I decided to take it off. I was shocked by how much wear the cord had, which I would have been able to see sooner if the whole thing hadn't been covered by duct tape.
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redlude97
Apr 26, 2010, 6:18 PM
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I certainly wouldn't do it and when I saw it i was thinking "yer gonna die!" but he's a much more experienced climber than I so I just though I would throw it out there with a disclaimer 
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grahamh
Apr 26, 2010, 11:01 PM
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To any shop that sews cams with new webbing this is no big deal. Many people actually get their cam webbing sewn so that both BD#3 and Metolius #9, for example, are the color blue.
I've yet to whip out my sewing machine, feed it with nylon thread, set the stitch length low and the width about 1/8 inch, but I met an old time climber who does.
I've hung multiple days strait in the Yates Shield harness and agree it's a great harness. This is not a major modification and should cost about $5-$10 at a climbing shop. No worries.
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jajen
Apr 29, 2010, 3:53 AM
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USnavy wrote: I have a Yates Shield that I want to use for my next big wall trip. However I don't like the fact that it only has one belay loop. I would like to have it replaced with two belay loops. Does anyone know of a manufacturer that would be willing to do this?
USnavy wrote: I already own the Big Gun, I use it for multi-pitch free climbing. However contrary to BD's advertising, its not a big wall aid harness, it’s not that comfortable or reinforced. The Shield however is well suited for big walls which why I would like two belay loops on it.
USnavy wrote: dugl33 wrote: I'm pretty sure Yates will do it for you. I suggest you call them. Or get a metolius waldo. [Inline metolius_waldo.jpg] Yep I have a Waldo, its a nice harness. However it lacks the gear loops for a serious route IMO. The big thing about the Shield is it has a billion loops which makes it easy to rack stuff that doesent belong on the gear sling.
I really gotta' ask - why the hell do you have a Yates Shield and a BD "Big Gun" AND a Metolius Waldo???? I can understand a couple harnesses for different types of climbing but 3 WALL HARNESSES!! WTF?!??!
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USnavy
Apr 29, 2010, 5:42 AM
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jajen wrote: USnavy wrote: I have a Yates Shield that I want to use for my next big wall trip. However I don't like the fact that it only has one belay loop. I would like to have it replaced with two belay loops. Does anyone know of a manufacturer that would be willing to do this? USnavy wrote: I already own the Big Gun, I use it for multi-pitch free climbing. However contrary to BD's advertising, its not a big wall aid harness, it’s not that comfortable or reinforced. The Shield however is well suited for big walls which why I would like two belay loops on it. USnavy wrote: dugl33 wrote: I'm pretty sure Yates will do it for you. I suggest you call them. Or get a metolius waldo. [Inline metolius_waldo.jpg] Yep I have a Waldo, its a nice harness. However it lacks the gear loops for a serious route IMO. The big thing about the Shield is it has a billion loops which makes it easy to rack stuff that doesent belong on the gear sling. I really gotta' ask - why the hell do you have a Yates Shield and a BD "Big Gun" AND a Metolius Waldo???? I can understand a couple harnesses for different types of climbing but 3 WALL HARNESSES!! WTF?!??!
Well I work at a gear shop and I like gear. I got the Waldo because it looked comfortable and my legs were getting tired after belaying a top rope hangdogger for 45 min straight in a sport harness. But then the leg loop went to hell from my slings so I bought a Big Gun to replace it. I later got the Shield because it looked super comfy, even more so then the Big Gun (and it is) but its not very flexible so I dont use it for sport.
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