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superal1110
May 2, 2010, 2:09 AM
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Registered: Sep 28, 2007
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Hello,
I was hoping if anybody can help me in identifying some routes I have been looking for at the Quarry. The first is Culture Shock (11c) at the Left of the Roof area. I read on mountainproject.com that it is just left of Choss Revoultion. I drove out there on my own to identify this route ( because I didnt have anybody to climb with ) but saw that there are two routes to the left of Choss Revolution. Is the first to the left of Choss Revolution Culture Shock? And what is the name of the second? It seems like the third and fourth one to the left of Choss Revolutoin are Raging Raptor and Flesh and Blood if I am correct!
Ok....the second route is Lucky (11d) and located at The Shield. The guidebook states that this route is 8 feet of THe Enemy Within and around the arete. There are two routes around the arete and only one route is listed in the guidebook which confused me. Is the route closest to the arete Lucky? And if it is...what is the name and grade of the route to the left of Lucky?
Also...is Spunk (12a) located between Exfoliator and Spunky Monkey?
Thanks alot in advance. And lastly...Would anybody be bothered if I chalked the names of these routes at the bottom of the climb to help other climbers identify the routes or would it be better to not do this? Ok. Thanks again.
Eagerly anticipating a response! ^-^
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jt512
May 3, 2010, 5:45 AM
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Registered: Apr 12, 2001
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superal1110 wrote: Would anybody be bothered if I chalked the names of these routes at the bottom of the climb to help other climbers identify the routes or would it be better to not do this?
Discreetly chalk the grade, not the name. We don't want to be perceived as part of the graffiti problem out there—and the grade is more informative, anyway.
Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on May 3, 2010, 5:53 AM)
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superal1110
May 3, 2010, 5:11 PM
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Sure thing...Ill only put the grades up. I did find Culture Shock by matching a picture from Mountainproject.com to the wall yesterday. It is the first route DIRECTLY LEFT of Choss Revolution. I dont know what the second route left of Choss Revolution is. But the third is Raging Raptor and the fourth is Flesh and Blood. All routes not completed or not in the Quarry Guidebook.
Im still wondering about Lucky and Spunk though!
(This post was edited by superal1110 on May 3, 2010, 5:14 PM)
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jt512
May 3, 2010, 5:22 PM
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superal1110 wrote: Sure thing...Ill only put the grades up. I did find Culture Shock by matching a picture from Mountainproject.com to the wall yesterday. It is the first route DIRECTLY LEFT of Choss Revolution. I dont know what the second route left of Choss Revolution is. But the third is Raging Raptor and the fourth is Flesh and Blood. All routes not completed or not in the Quarry Guidebook.
I know off the top of my head that Raging Raptor is in the supplement to the guidebook. Some of those other routes may be as well. You might be able to get a copy of the supplement by PMing Louie ("socalbolter").
Jay
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itsallrock
May 4, 2010, 9:38 PM
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Registered: Apr 24, 2010
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superal1110 wrote: Hello, Ok....the second route is Lucky (11d) and located at The Shield. The guidebook states that this route is 8 feet of THe Enemy Within and around the arete. There are two routes around the arete and only one route is listed in the guidebook which confused me. Is the route closest to the arete Lucky? And if it is...what is the name and grade of the route to the left of Lucky?
Lucky is the first route left of the arete. There are some small logs holding the dirt at the belay right of the arete. There is a chain anchor to clip into on the big boulder next to the drop off to the left of the arete. There is a holed near the arete to clip the first bolt with. The 3rd bolt is less pumpy to clip if you do a move to the right of the bolt a better hold to clip from. A fun pumpy crux is up higher. Good luck.
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