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Grinding/Filing to make offset hexs
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evanwish


May 5, 2010, 9:30 AM
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Grinding/Filing to make offset hexs
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I've heard from a few sources that the small hex's can be filed down to make them offset enough to work in pin scars. I am wondering if this little innovation trick is fact (or just fiction) because I have a few little hex's laying around that never get any use that may be better used as another piece for aiding flared pin scars.

If you have tried it or have ant thoughts on it (like "Yer gonna DIE!!") let me know!

Thanks,
Evan

PS: first heard it mentioned on one post on this thread


summerprophet


May 5, 2010, 10:38 AM
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Re: [evanwish] Grinding/Filing to make offset hexs [In reply to]
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The first I heard about this was in Yosemite.

Amon's brother was machining offset hexes for scars circa '99.

You still need to set them with a firm hammer tap though.

Personally, I would prefer the speed and ease of an offset cam or camhook for pinscars.

As always, everyone has their own preferences.


evanwish


May 5, 2010, 12:53 PM
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Re: [summerprophet] Grinding/Filing to make offset hexs [In reply to]
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It seems you could get some shallow placements with them, but you're right our offset cams and cam hooks would be quicker.

We're using a ~4 ounce tack hammer to help remove stubborn nuts, but using that to set an offset hex would negate a "clean" ascent right?


summerprophet


May 5, 2010, 1:22 PM
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Re: [evanwish] Grinding/Filing to make offset hexs [In reply to]
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There is no such thing as a clean ascent.

Everytime I top out, I am covered in a layer of grime, sweat, and filth. Not really cleam by any definition.

Hammerless though........


swoopee


May 5, 2010, 1:53 PM
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Re: [summerprophet] Grinding/Filing to make offset hexs [In reply to]
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summerprophet wrote:
There is no such thing as a clean ascent.

Everytime I top out, I am covered in a layer of grime, sweat, and filth. Not really cleam by any definition.

Hammerless though........

Smile


evanwish


May 5, 2010, 2:08 PM
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Re: [summerprophet] Grinding/Filing to make offset hexs [In reply to]
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summerprophet wrote:
There is no such thing as a clean ascent.

Everytime I top out, I am covered in a layer of grime, sweat, and filth. Not really cleam by any definition.

Hammerless though........

Ha! I love it. Is it still "hammerless" if its just a 4 ounce tack hammer to help tap the nut tool to get a nut out?

I can see tapping in an offset hex would make it no different than a piton.


summerprophet


May 5, 2010, 2:42 PM
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Re: [evanwish] Grinding/Filing to make offset hexs [In reply to]
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Call it what you will, but I believe you just asked me if a tack hammer is a hammer.

The intent is there, that you are creating a clean passage with minimal damage to the route as it exists..... depending on the material of course..... but I am quite confident you are not attempting to set offset hexes in soft sandstone.

But the fact is you got a hammer.

I am not an aid guru by any stretch, but I have done enough to get a feel for what will work, and know enough to realize when PassThePitonsPete is full of shit.

The fact is if it were my route, I would take no offence to you taking a light hammer for cleaning, but some sport climber is going to call you out on "ethics" when you are reliving your stories in the pub.

From Aid climbing to Sport Climbing, this whole regimen of classifying ascents, is really a big bunch of bullshit. clean climbing, hammerless climbing, pink pointing, redpointing, onsight...... sigh.

Climb in the accepted stye or better, with respect to those who have passed before, and respect for those who shall come after...... know in your mind that you have done good, and fuck the punk kid in the corner who topropes 5.10 on a good day, yet questions why you cannot free the aid wall you just spent 4 days on.

Rant Off.


evanwish


May 5, 2010, 3:41 PM
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Re: [summerprophet] Grinding/Filing to make offset hexs [In reply to]
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Actually that was an entertaining rant. Thank you.

So basically, I could do the slightly offset hexs, set them with a few light taps (but of obviously NOT too hard, for fear of even the slightest rock damage).


mrtristan


May 11, 2010, 11:32 AM
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Re: [evanwish] Grinding/Filing to make offset hexs [In reply to]
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Offset hexes... Whoah. I want some.


evanwish


May 11, 2010, 11:48 AM
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Re: [mrtristan] Grinding/Filing to make offset hexs [In reply to]
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mrtristan wrote:
Offset hexes... Whoah. I want some.

If i make it through my to do list and end up making some, i'll post on them.

Also, there's this link on more nuts ground into offsets.



tomtom


May 11, 2010, 12:53 PM
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Re: [evanwish] Grinding/Filing to make offset hexs [In reply to]
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Rockcentrics are already offset in the long direction.

http://www.wildcountry.co.uk/...ivePro/Rockcentrics/




(This post was edited by tomtom on May 11, 2010, 12:54 PM)


acorneau


May 11, 2010, 1:41 PM
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Re: [tomtom] Grinding/Filing to make offset hexs [In reply to]
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tomtom wrote:
Rockcentrics are already offset in the long direction.

Yes, the BD hexes are as well. However I believe the OP is thinking of having a taper along it's long axis. Think more along the lines of the DMM offsets:




evanwish


May 11, 2010, 2:35 PM
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Re: [acorneau] Grinding/Filing to make offset hexs [In reply to]
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acorneau wrote:
tomtom wrote:
Rockcentrics are already offset in the long direction.

Yes, the BD hexes are as well. However I believe the OP is thinking of having a taper along it's long axis. Think more along the lines of the DMM offsets:

[image]http://www.supertopo.com/photos/1/62/137726_27979_XL.jpg[/image]

Yes, true. However, the offset nature is very little and only on the endwise placement. Even in the #1 hex, thats still .45 inches; not very small. At that size or above, i'd probably just use an offset nut (unless its super, SUPER shallow).

I'm thinking more about offset when in its camming orientation.

Maybe that would open up placement options in
-outward flaring parallel cracks where an offset nut might not hold (when a hex or cam might be more favorable).
-spots where nuts don't stick, but are too shallow for an offset cam.
-when a placement is best made by an offset cam, but i want to save them for later.


Partner hosh


May 11, 2010, 2:44 PM
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Re: [evanwish] Grinding/Filing to make offset hexs [In reply to]
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anyone interested in manufacturing hexes? I've got an idea that's somewhat novel, I've never seen it before (and I've looked). I've got the idea, I just need someone with the equipment and the know-how... Any interest?

hosh.


evanwish


May 11, 2010, 8:40 PM
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Re: [hosh] Grinding/Filing to make offset hexs [In reply to]
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hosh wrote:
anyone interested in manufacturing hexes? I've got an idea that's somewhat novel, I've never seen it before (and I've looked). I've got the idea, I just need someone with the equipment and the know-how... Any interest?

hosh.

I'm intrigued!

Maybe we need a 2011 Homemade semi-Passive gear competition! [Hexs and tricams]


whipper


May 11, 2010, 9:50 PM
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Re: [evanwish] Grinding/Filing to make offset hexs [In reply to]
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I did that about four years ago for Zion pin scars....Works great. I actually used a belt sander to make them into a perfect baby angle shape. People who see them love them. Go for it, it works.


jeremy11


May 12, 2010, 12:21 PM
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Re: [whipper] Grinding/Filing to make offset hexs [In reply to]
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whipper wrote:
I did that about four years ago for Zion pin scars....Works great. I actually used a belt sander to make them into a perfect baby angle shape. People who see them love them. Go for it, it works.

Belt sander is the fastest, normal grinding wheels get clogged up with aluminum, files are fine too, depending on how much material you need to move. Should work fine.

As far as hammer usage.... I once placed a #3 AL nut in a flare like a copperhead. It worked.


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