What kind of anchors do you have that you can't lower off of?

Jay

I think it would help if you specified when you were talking about at the gym or when you were talking about the local crag outside.

some routes have just 2 hangers with quicklinks set at the same height. others have chains or rings, but they are set at the top of the rock and not in the vertical face, so even pulling the rope after the rappel is hard

some routes just have bolts, no quicklinks or chains or rap rings or anything. actually thats far more common in the areas I climb than anything else.

If you thread the rope through the hangers and rappel down you'll be fine. If you lower it will quickly destroy your rope if you do it very much. You aren't the quicklink fairy who keeps leaving all the quicklinks all over southern Colorado are you?

If you thread the rope through the hangers and rappel down you'll be fine. If you lower it will quickly destroy your rope if you do it very much. You aren't the quicklink fairy who keeps leaving all the quicklinks all over southern Colorado are you?

or these: http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/...eel_bolt_hanger.html

some routes just have bolts, no quicklinks or chains or rap rings or anything. actually thats far more common in the areas I climb than anything else.

If you thread the rope through the hangers and rappel down you'll be fine.

One problem with calling yourself a guide before you've paid the dues and put in the time traditionally required to earn that designation is that every time you advocate a rookie move like rapping through bolt hangers you're going to appear double the fool for it.

Jay

I'll say again, "If the people who put it there did so with the assumption that it would wear out ..." then that's why. Each area has its own rules. Why are you trying to make the world conform to your idea of correctness?

j_ung wrote:Whether I lower, rappel or clean the route by following it depends entirely on the route and the type of anchor.

Edit: and sometimes the condition that anchor is in.

blueeyedclimber wrote: You mean it's situational? IT can't be decided by a poll? That's Crazy Talk!!!

cracklover wrote: What about if the poll is broken and completely meaningless. Can it be decided then?

The fundamental problem with this thread, and this topic in particular, is that people keep referring to the gym and the crag as if they are the same thing. THEY AREN'T!! You can not take your gym ethics and assume they are the same out at the cliff. That is why we are being innundated by a new breed of climbers for whom convenience is high on their list of climbing values. Keep your convenience at your exercise gym where it belongs. Let'sbe honest...the one and ONLY reason someone would lower off the anchor instaed of rapping down themselves is because they are too damned lazy to do the right thing. we all know what should be done, to preserve the life of those "convenience" anchors, and that is not to toprope off of them and use them for lowers. Stop being LAZY you freaking turds!

RR - the voice of a bygone generation it seems

The fundamental problem with this thread, and this topic in particular, is that people keep referring to the gym and the crag as if they are the same thing. THEY AREN'T!! You can not take your gym ethics and assume they are the same out at the cliff. That is why we are being innundated by a new breed of climbers for whom convenience is high on their list of climbing values. Keep your convenience at your exercise gym where it belongs. Let'sbe honest...the one and ONLY reason someone would lower off the anchor instaed of rapping down themselves is because they are too damned lazy to do the right thing. we all know what should be done, to preserve the life of those "convenience" anchors, and that is not to toprope off of them and use them for lowers. Stop being LAZY you freaking turds!

RR - the voice of a bygone generation it seems

The fundamental problem with this thread, and this topic in particular, is that people keep referring to the gym and the crag as if they are the same thing. THEY AREN'T!! You can not take your gym ethics and assume they are the same out at the cliff. That is why we are being innundated by a new breed of climbers for whom convenience is high on their list of climbing values. Keep your convenience at your exercise gym where it belongs. Let'sbe honest...the one and ONLY reason someone would lower off the anchor instaed of rapping down themselves is because they are too damned lazy to do the right thing. we all know what should be done, to preserve the life of those "convenience" anchors, and that is not to toprope off of them and use them for lowers. Stop being LAZY you freaking turds!

RR - the voice of a bygone generation it seems

Rumney Guidebook Pg 18
"Please use your own gear until the last climber of your party loweres off the route"

come back when you get a clue dumbass.

clean this on rap
[image]http://www.deansplace.net/~grahamski/Summer%20%2704%20Roadtrip%20webpage/pictures/rumney/0506_rumney_bonsai.JPG[/image]

or this one.. climber in blue
[image]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v115/Socjake/Red%20River%20Gorge/IMG_1234.jpg?t=1273177353[/image]

and this got me thinking, how do you clean off a long roof???

if you are rappelling on 2 strands (obviously) and one of them is still clipped through all the quickdraws, why cant you just lower until you are at the quickdraw's height, and then your belay, who is now off belay, just pulls the strand passing through the quickdraws to pull you to the wall?? this is how i have cleaned overhanging routes. well, overhanging where you land 10 or 12 feet from the base of the wall. i imagine if it was a lot more overhung, it would ve more difficult...

and this got me thinking, how do you clean off a long roof???

exactly.. when it gets more overhanging and more traversing or both it is much safer and easier to be on belay. When you are rapping then you are required to trust a 6mm cord on a friction hitch to keep your ass off the deck. as opposed to your belayer lowering you down. I've been sport climbing for about 8 years now and have cleaned on rappel less than 5 times and those were dead vertical routes where the rope went over an edge and it still sucked.

Faster, safer, more convenient and the local ethic at MANY sport areas. 1 lower off per group is NOT that harmful to the gear.

With a tram...