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Rappelling or Lowering Through Bolted Anchors
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Poll: Rappelling or Lowering Through Bolted Anchors
Rappelling is safer 5 / 6%
Lowering is safer 26 / 32%
Rappelling is better for preserving the integrity of bolted anchors (including chains, quicklinks, rap hangers, and regular hangers) 49 / 61%
Lowering is better for preserving the integrity of bolted anchors (including chains, quicklinks, rap hangers, and regular hangers)  0 / 0%
80 total votes
 

redlude97


May 6, 2010, 2:18 PM
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shu2kill wrote:
redlude97 wrote:
With a tram...

i had never heard of the term before, but i did a search and now i know what it means. in fact i have used it sometimes to be lowered cleaning overhangs (lowering off my own gear, i have friends who dont like preplaced draws Crazy)
Even with a tram it can be a pain in the @ss to clean some overhanging routes, which is why many routes have permanent or preplaced draws on those sections. I would never dream of asking my belayer to pull me into those routes while rapping


shu2kill


May 6, 2010, 2:23 PM
Post #102 of 128 (2425 views)
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Registered: Apr 8, 2008
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Re: [redlude97] Rappelling or Lowering Through Bolted Anchors [In reply to]
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redlude97 wrote:
shu2kill wrote:
redlude97 wrote:
With a tram...

i had never heard of the term before, but i did a search and now i know what it means. in fact i have used it sometimes to be lowered cleaning overhangs (lowering off my own gear, i have friends who dont like preplaced draws Crazy)
Even with a tram it can be a pain in the @ss to clean some overhanging routes, which is why many routes have permanent or preplaced draws on those sections. I would never dream of asking my belayer to pull me into those routes while rapping

haha, thats another thing i wish we could do here. im sure "permanent draws" would get stolen in less than a month!!! we have had anchors stolen, from routes without a top out!!! so there is no way they could have walked to the top, lean over and unbolt them. the thief had to be a climber. how he lowered from that route, i cannot say...


altelis


May 6, 2010, 3:50 PM
Post #103 of 128 (2405 views)
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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Re: [shu2kill] Rappelling or Lowering Through Bolted Anchors [In reply to]
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shu2kill wrote:
redlude97 wrote:
With a tram...

i had never heard of the term before, but i did a search and now i know what it means. in fact i have used it sometimes to be lowered cleaning overhangs (lowering off my own gear, i have friends who dont like preplaced draws Crazy)

Yep. These suckers:


sure do make cleaning overhanging sport routes a breeze!






Cool


jmeizis


May 6, 2010, 4:01 PM
Post #104 of 128 (2403 views)
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Registered: Apr 25, 2006
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Re: [jt512] Rappelling or Lowering Through Bolted Anchors [In reply to]
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There's a difference in saying that you're not going to die doing it and advocating that one do it one a regular basis.


jmeizis


May 6, 2010, 4:03 PM
Post #105 of 128 (2398 views)
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Re: [jakedatc] Rappelling or Lowering Through Bolted Anchors [In reply to]
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It's interesting that you posted a picture of that climb (Peer Pressure I believe). I'm 90% sure I have cleaned it on rappel with no ill effect. Maybe I'll try it again in the fall.


jt512


May 6, 2010, 4:10 PM
Post #106 of 128 (2393 views)
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Registered: Apr 11, 2001
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Re: [jmeizis] Rappelling or Lowering Through Bolted Anchors [In reply to]
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jmeizis wrote:
There's a difference in saying that you're not going to die doing it and advocating that one do it one a regular basis.

Too bad your post implied the latter.

Jay


redlude97


May 6, 2010, 4:14 PM
Post #107 of 128 (2391 views)
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Registered: Aug 27, 2008
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Re: [jmeizis] Rappelling or Lowering Through Bolted Anchors [In reply to]
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jmeizis wrote:
If you thread the rope through the hangers and rappel down you'll be fine.
I dunno you sound pretty sure of yourself


jakedatc


May 6, 2010, 4:56 PM
Post #108 of 128 (2373 views)
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Registered: Mar 12, 2003
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Re: [jmeizis] Rappelling or Lowering Through Bolted Anchors [In reply to]
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jmeizis wrote:
It's interesting that you posted a picture of that climb (Peer Pressure I believe). I'm 90% sure I have cleaned it on rappel with no ill effect. Maybe I'll try it again in the fall.

that is social outcast and i don't think you climb hard enough so it won't matter

i will still mock you since it's a waste of time and mostly makes you look like an idiot when it is the norm to lower off.


jmeizis


May 6, 2010, 5:12 PM
Post #109 of 128 (2364 views)
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Re: [redlude97] Rappelling or Lowering Through Bolted Anchors [In reply to]
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In reply to:
It's much less preferred than through a quicklink, ring, or rap hanger, but you are highly unlikely to die.

Is that more clear?


jmeizis


May 6, 2010, 5:29 PM
Post #110 of 128 (2351 views)
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Re: [jakedatc] Rappelling or Lowering Through Bolted Anchors [In reply to]
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It's hard to tell whether the picture was of Peer Pressure or Social Outcast. And no I don't climb that hard because I make an effort to do things onsight. It's been a good season so far so who knows.

You come mock me. I'm pretty sure I climb way more than you do so I don't really care how hard you think you climb.


redlude97


May 6, 2010, 5:30 PM
Post #111 of 128 (2348 views)
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Re: [jmeizis] Rappelling or Lowering Through Bolted Anchors [In reply to]
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jmeizis wrote:
In reply to:
It's much less preferred than through a quicklink, ring, or rap hanger, but you are highly unlikely to die.

Is that more clear?
Clearer? Yes. True? Maybe. Can you quantify "highly unlikely"?


jakedatc


May 6, 2010, 5:39 PM
Post #112 of 128 (2340 views)
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Re: [jmeizis] Rappelling or Lowering Through Bolted Anchors [In reply to]
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jmeizis wrote:
It's hard to tell whether the picture was of Peer Pressure or Social Outcast. And no I don't climb that hard because I make an effort to do things onsight. It's been a good season so far so who knows.

You come mock me. I'm pretty sure I climb way more than you do so I don't really care how hard you think you climb.

sounds like you should stick to the head down ass out.. can rap clean all you want. and onsite it



jmeizis


May 6, 2010, 5:42 PM
Post #113 of 128 (2339 views)
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Re: [redlude97] Rappelling or Lowering Through Bolted Anchors [In reply to]
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Nope can't quantify it, too many variables.


jmeizis


May 6, 2010, 5:44 PM
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If I could make sense of that "sentence" I would try to think of something to reply with. What's the photo about anyways?


rangerrob


May 6, 2010, 6:13 PM
Post #115 of 128 (2316 views)
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Registered: Apr 7, 2003
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oh I forgot. You lame asses are primarily talking about clipping bolts, and apparently your belayer is too weak to clean the route when they second it. I forgot that all you gym weenies just clip bolts. My bad. Just expecxt to get your ass handed to you if you are found toproping and lowering off of fixed anchors, (which shouldn't be there in the first place).

RR


jt512


May 6, 2010, 6:24 PM
Post #116 of 128 (2309 views)
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Re: [rangerrob] Rappelling or Lowering Through Bolted Anchors [In reply to]
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rangerrob wrote:
oh I forgot. You lame asses are primarily talking about clipping bolts, and apparently your belayer is too weak to clean the route when they second it. I forgot that all you gym weenies just clip bolts. My bad. Just expecxt to get your ass handed to you if you are found toproping and lowering off of fixed anchors, (which shouldn't be there in the first place).

RR

I thought that dinosaurs were extinct.

Jay


granite_grrl


May 6, 2010, 6:56 PM
Post #117 of 128 (2297 views)
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
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jmeizis wrote:
It's interesting that you posted a picture of that climb (Peer Pressure I believe). I'm 90% sure I have cleaned it on rappel with no ill effect. Maybe I'll try it again in the fall.
heh, I'd like to see that gong show.....


I_do


May 7, 2010, 1:07 AM
Post #118 of 128 (2268 views)
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Registered: Mar 2, 2008
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Re: [jt512] Rappelling or Lowering Through Bolted Anchors [In reply to]
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jt512 wrote:
rangerrob wrote:
oh I forgot. You lame asses are primarily talking about clipping bolts, and apparently your belayer is too weak to clean the route when they second it. I forgot that all you gym weenies just clip bolts. My bad. Just expecxt to get your ass handed to you if you are found toproping and lowering off of fixed anchors, (which shouldn't be there in the first place).

RR

I thought that dinosaurs were extinct.

Jay

If you were a pretty blond, adolescent girl with low standards I'd totally marry you.


rangerrob


May 7, 2010, 5:17 AM
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Re: [I_do] Rappelling or Lowering Through Bolted Anchors [In reply to]
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There's at least a few left.


scottek67


May 7, 2010, 7:29 AM
Post #120 of 128 (2226 views)
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Re: [majid_sabet] Rappelling or Lowering Through Bolted Anchors [In reply to]
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majid_sabet wrote:
rapping from bolt hanger without a biner or rap ring is a bad habit and one day, one of you will be killed while doing it.
unless said bolt hanger was specifically designed to do so as was mentioned earlier. have you not seen these?


redlude97


May 7, 2010, 7:34 AM
Post #121 of 128 (2224 views)
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Re: [scottek67] Rappelling or Lowering Through Bolted Anchors [In reply to]
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scottek67 wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
rapping from bolt hanger without a biner or rap ring is a bad habit and one day, one of you will be killed while doing it.
unless said bolt hanger was specifically designed to do so as was mentioned earlier. have you not seen these?
Except jmeizis said that you will be fine rapping off normal bolt hangers


scottek67


May 7, 2010, 7:55 AM
Post #122 of 128 (2217 views)
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redlude97 wrote:
scottek67 wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
rapping from bolt hanger without a biner or rap ring is a bad habit and one day, one of you will be killed while doing it.
unless said bolt hanger was specifically designed to do so as was mentioned earlier. have you not seen these?
Except jmeizis said that you will be fine rapping off normal bolt hangers
eeeee musta skipped right past that one... bad idea! majid you are still my hero.Angelic


Partner cracklover


May 7, 2010, 9:10 AM
Post #123 of 128 (2199 views)
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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
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Re: [rangerrob] Rappelling or Lowering Through Bolted Anchors [In reply to]
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rangerrob wrote:
oh I forgot. You lame asses are primarily talking about clipping bolts, and apparently your belayer is too weak to clean the route when they second it. I forgot that all you gym weenies just clip bolts. My bad. Just expecxt to get your ass handed to you if you are found toproping and lowering off of fixed anchors, (which shouldn't be there in the first place).

RR

Us lame asses are pretty much entirely talking about clipping bolts. The Gunks is kind of a rare situation, with multi-pitch trad climbs in which so many of the routes just get the first pitch gang-toproped off bolted anchors.

Again, you're not really understanding the conditions this thread is referring to when you say "your belayer is too weak to clean the route when they second it". Most of the time, at sport crags, there is no second. Everyone leads it, and the last person up is responsible for cleaning the route on the way down. The question of the thread is: on rappel, or on lower.

But I agree that in the Gunks, those convenience bolted stations shouldn't even be there. Of course we both know that if they weren't there all kinds of fixed mank would appear in their place. So the bolts are most likely the lesser of two evils anyway.

GO


rangerrob


May 7, 2010, 3:14 PM
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Re: [cracklover] Rappelling or Lowering Through Bolted Anchors [In reply to]
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Dammit Cracklover, why do you have to go and make sense and everything. I was enjoying being villified and hated on.


Partner j_ung


May 9, 2010, 6:16 PM
Post #125 of 128 (2116 views)
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rangerrob wrote:
Dammit Cracklover, why do you have to go and make sense and everything. I was enjoying being villified and hated on.

A Few years ago, I let an air biscuit fly in a situation that did not exactly warrant the unchecked floating of such bodily gasses. I can't recall why I and several others were there. Maybe it was a wedding reception or some such. Suffice to say we were all dressed to the nines -- use your imagination. At that instant, when the conversation stopped and the moment became painfully awkward, I faced a difficult decision. Should I have ignored the... um... event... and continue the conversation despite that everybody knew it was me? Should I have apologized and removed myself to the bathroom? No and no. I did what you just did. I grinned the grin of the self-righteous and said, "That's right, bitches."

Strong showing, sir. I may not enjoy the smell of your opinion, but I wholeheartedly respect where it led. Smile

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