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suilenroc
Aug 28, 2007, 5:54 PM
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This was the biggest waste of my climbing time... The rock is alright, slick, limestone, cool if you have never climbed limestone... Geology does not always make for a good crag, the anchors at the top that you have to use SUCK BALLSSSSSS, i would highly recommend to anyone wanting to climb there that they change their plans and climb in the Hocking Hills if you must climb in ohio, or go to kentucky, or west virginia, JOHN BRYAN STATE BLOW JOB. NOT WORTH YOUR TIME!!!!!!
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matthelj
Dec 14, 2008, 1:43 AM
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This is an interesting comment. I guess if you're a passionate, high-level climber JB is not your best bet. However, for those of you still treading the preliminary stages of rock climbing, JB is an excellent spot to learn in a friend, safe, and beautiful environment.
It is also important to note, however, that there does exist a stunning plethora of big wall extremely challenge climbs in the area - they're just not legal or bolted. If you're adventurous, talented, and looking for first ascents, JB is your ticket. Leave the regular walls and head down hill towards the river, cross it, and head up to the other side of the gorge. There, you will find numerous 40' + difficult climbs.
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suilenroc
Dec 14, 2008, 2:45 AM
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In reply to: Leave the regular walls and head down hill towards the river, cross it, and head up to the other side of the gorge. There, you will find numerous 40' + difficult climbs.
... and who's land are you treading on???
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matthelj
Dec 14, 2008, 3:39 AM
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Well, that's difficult to say. Demarcating John Bryan State Park and the Clifton Natural Reserve can be difficult because they both encompass parts of the same river. If it's Clifton Natural Reserve territory, you're in trouble if you get caught. If it's John Bryan, no worries. Either way, there are no 'no climbing' signs in that area and its just enough off trail that most people (including the ranger) probably wouldn't notice you.
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suilenroc
Dec 14, 2008, 4:11 AM
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In reply to: If it's John Bryan, no worries.
I doubt these rules have changed...
In reply to: Either way, there are no 'no climbing' signs in that area and its just enough off trail that most people (including the ranger) probably wouldn't notice you.
FYI, you are probably going to be the wanker that the ranger notices and then come the signs...
Do what you want, but don't post illegal climbing areas. Access in Ohio sucks almost as much as the rock you dig. 
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matthelj
Dec 14, 2008, 6:56 PM
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Negative Nancy,
Warding off potential climbers by posting "John Blow State Park" is hardly productive and sadly immature. It's fine if you don't want to climb at JB, you certainly wont be missed.
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suilenroc
Dec 14, 2008, 7:09 PM
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wow, you are pretty good at missing the point!
In response to your comments about "John Blow State Park"... There are much better places to climb, call it "warding off" if you want. I see it more as my personal opinion from a personal experience while climbing there. Don't get me wrong, the gorge is beautiful - but this doesn't imply good climbing!
Immature, hell yeah!
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matthelj
Dec 14, 2008, 8:03 PM
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i didn't miss your point. I repeat: anyone uninterested with the established JB walls should check this new area out. If you climb it and it's already restricted, you'll be asked to leave - there will be no increase in 'restricted access to ohio climbs.' If you climb it and it's not restricted, there's a (slight) possibility someone will try to make it restricted - in this case, an area which isn't climbed anyway will become 'officially' unclimbable. My point is: nothing will change.
Best option yet though, ask an authority. if it's not legal, look into making it legal. If it's still JB terriroty (which is a state park, and not a nature reserve - like the gorge) there is a good possibility that the area could be opened up to climbing if enough people wanted it to be.
So, the lesson is: don't be a pessimistic and immature wanker. Rather, be an adventurous and ambitious climber, working toward opening up restricted areas, or growing some balls and exploring them anyway.
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suilenroc
Dec 14, 2008, 8:28 PM
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fail
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matthelj
Dec 14, 2008, 8:34 PM
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matthelj
Dec 15, 2008, 2:13 AM
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If it means anything to you, the walls I'm talking about aren't a part of the Nature Reserve, but actually John Bryan territory.
The JB website has a detailed map. The walls I am talking about are essentially on the other side of the river from where the established climbing areas are.
http://www.johnbryan.org/
It may not be too difficult to render these designated climbing areas too.
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suilenroc
Dec 15, 2008, 2:19 AM
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In reply to: It may not be too difficult to render these designated climbing areas too.
...maybe. Just be weary of climbing there, taking people there, and posting about a place that you have little knowledge. Shit, maybe its home to the Three-Toothed Snail...
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Lazlo
Dec 15, 2008, 2:34 AM
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shockabuku
Dec 15, 2008, 2:38 AM
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matthelj wrote: It is also important to note, however, that there does exist a stunning plethora of big wall extremely challenge climbs in the area - they're just not legal or bolted. If you're adventurous, talented, and looking for first ascents, JB is your ticket. Leave the regular walls and head down hill towards the river, cross it, and head up to the other side of the gorge. There, you will find numerous 40' + difficult climbs.
Was that a joke?
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suilenroc
Dec 15, 2008, 3:01 AM
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shockabuku wrote: matthelj wrote: It is also important to note, however, that there does exist a stunning plethora of big wall extremely challenge climbs in the area - they're just not legal or bolted. If you're adventurous, talented, and looking for first ascents, JB is your ticket. Leave the regular walls and head down hill towards the river, cross it, and head up to the other side of the gorge. There, you will find numerous 40' + difficult climbs. Was that a joke?
I laughed, not because i thought he was kidding, but because i think he was serious...
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octar
May 8, 2010, 7:43 PM
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I just climbed at JB for the first time a few days ago. I read on this thread about the old In reply to: bolts and was a little worried about them from a safety point. After seeing them and hooking up, I have no idea why the poster would have an issue. The bolts are huge and show no signs of ware. I'd say it was just another elitist climber hating on JB.
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Mattbed
Aug 9, 2010, 6:57 PM
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Also recently went to JB last weekend. Beats climbing nothing in Columbus if you don't have the time to get to more interesting areas.
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