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mattmaddaloni
May 11, 2010, 12:41 AM
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My name is Matt Maddaloni and I am currently immersed in the adventure of the Anticam. I would like you to join me as I share its design, function, development and future.
If you don't know what the Anticam is please visit
http://theseasontv.com
There are 5 free web TV episodes showing the beginning of the Anticam. A climbing device that pinches rock instead of expanding between it. Watch episodes 1, 6, 9, 15, 21 and 22
Before I begin I'd like to explain why I am not patenting it. I work as a mechanical engineer and have patented several devices and systems under Ziptrek Ecotours. All have been rigging related and some are far more complicated than the Anticam. It is very expensive to patent something and climbing is already a difficult business to be in so the chances of making enough money to warrant the time and expense necessary to patent a Anticam is just not worth it.
So my goal is:
Make the Anticam open source and develop it here on this forum so that one day we all can have and use them.
so it begins...
photo shows version 1 of the Anticam
mm
(This post was edited by mattmaddaloni on May 11, 2010, 6:31 PM)
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Rudmin
May 11, 2010, 1:19 AM
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Now we just need to find an anticrack
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angry
May 11, 2010, 1:28 AM
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This is just another one of a million ideas I had years ago.
Not practical. The occasional aid on a flake and that's it. Not really worth carrying.
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acorneau
May 11, 2010, 1:29 AM
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mattmaddaloni wrote: My name is Matt Maddaloni and I am currently immersed in the adventure of the Anticam. I would like you to join me as I share its design, function, development and future. If you don't know what the Anticam is please visit http://www.theseasontv.com There are 5 free web TV episodes showing the beginning adventures of the Anticam. A climbing device that pinches rock instead of expanding between it. Watch episodes 1, 6, 9, 15, 21 and 22 Before I begin I'd like to explain why I am not patenting it. I work as a mechanical engineer and have patented several devices and systems under Ziptrek Ecotours. All have been rigging related and some are far more complicated than the Anticam. It is very expensive to patent something and to get a return for those dollars you need to have far more than a patent. High grade components, assembly, safety testing, manufacturing, distribution and retail are all expenses not included in the $20,000 it takes to patent in Canada. Every country beyond that would require another $20,000. How many Anticams would I need to sell to pay off the first bill... Climbing is already a difficult business to be in so the chances of making enough money to warrant the time and expense necessary to patent a Anticam is just not worth it. For the Anticam to have the best chance of success it should be an open source project. If solutions to its various problems are found here on this forum then maybe a company one day will make them available to the public. So that's my goal: Make the Anticam open source and develop it here so that one day we all can have and use them. so it begins... photo shows version 1 of the Anticam mm
Ha ha ha... 
Ok, seriously, ever think about how often a nice "pinch" would come around in any given climb? Not that often.
Secondly, why would someone want to carry around something about as heavy as a Valley Giant just to protect said perfect pinch?
Good luck with your invention, though.
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mattmaddaloni
May 11, 2010, 2:28 AM
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Where would one have to use an Anticam?
1) In the first http://theseasontv.com episode I discover a huge flake on the Chief in Squamish, BC. This flake begins about 1 inch in thickness and as it sweeps from left to right it gains mass until it is about 20 inches thick. This 80 foot pitch of rock has never been climbed, either on aid or free. A number 2 camalot placed behind it would expand the flake until the cam popped out (with less than body weight) or the flake itself breaks off. Using Anticams allows a climber to safely traverse the pitch free. Such a classic line deserves to be done without bolts and the climbing is incredible and different from other routes.
2) Two pitches climbed here in Squamish that were bolted flakes but were done without using the Anticam.
3) I have found a huge roof crack. Several huge flakes stick out of the crack, they are so big that it would be brutal to squeeze up into the recesses and place cams, instead a first ascentionist would bolt the outside of the 5.12+ layback flakes. Instead I want to climb it first minimizing bolts and using the Anticam. This is an exciting opportunity and it is amazing that two great projects have presented themselves in only a month of having a first working prototype.
It takes imagination to find opportunities to do new things. I also think having great stoke and energy in life is a hard thing to find with so many stresses in our lives. Please do not wreck the stoke and post negative remarks on this thread. Thank you.
(This post was edited by mattmaddaloni on May 11, 2010, 6:32 PM)
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mattmaddaloni
May 11, 2010, 2:40 AM
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If you would like to see the Guillotine Flake getting an ascent (this week) with the Anticam check out
http://arcteryx.com
it will not be on The Seasons web site for another week.
mm
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bradley3297
May 11, 2010, 2:45 AM
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Freeing up from the skies would be an amazing achievement. I think bolting lines like these would just turn them into generic lines. million sport climbs already. I also think that a prototype anti-cam and a anti-cam that was patented and then perfected before it was put on the market would be very different in size and weight. the amount of sketchy unprotectable natural lines that would open up would be amazing. Maybe even take the a4 out of some aid climbs around here lol.
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kennoyce
May 11, 2010, 3:32 AM
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angry wrote: This is just another one of a million ideas I had years ago. Not practical. The occasional aid on a flake and that's it. Not really worth carrying.
Yep, my thoughts exactly. I am also a mechanical engineer, I have also thought of the "anticam" idea on several occasions when I am brainstorming new climbing gear, but inevitably it always comes down to the same thing. It just isn't worth creating a piece of gear so specialized that you could only use it on one climb out of a thousand.
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m-allenbach
May 11, 2010, 4:47 AM
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Practical or not it is still a fairly cool idea. Even cooler though is the fact that he actually built and used it.
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mattmaddaloni
May 11, 2010, 5:45 AM
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The 'idea' of the Anticam isn't new, many have thought about a pinching device. Cool. What stumped me for a very long time was two major issues.
1) How can you make it fit varying sized features
2) How can you place it with one hand
of course other problems like weight and strength also apply
Several years ago I wanted to climb the Guillotine Flake and it was obvious the Anticam was the way to go. Unfortunately I couldn't figure out the above issues.
Then about one year ago I thought about using a V shape with a bottom axle and a spreader bar. The Anticam could spread apart from one central axle. Then a bar could be popped into place and lock off the V from spreading farther. The cams on the end would take up any small adjustments from there. Voila! I had one of the problems solved.
Here is the 3D drawings of that first prototype. This was made in Autodesk Inventor
(This post was edited by mattmaddaloni on May 11, 2010, 6:33 PM)
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mattmaddaloni
May 11, 2010, 6:35 AM
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Here is the first technical drawing of the Anticam. This is version 1. I will add photos and drawings of the newest prototype at a later time.
mm
(This post was edited by mattmaddaloni on May 11, 2010, 6:53 PM)
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iknowfear
May 11, 2010, 9:05 AM
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I cannot judge the usefulness, but it looks waaaay cool!
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adatesman
May 11, 2010, 12:30 PM
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airscape
May 11, 2010, 12:54 PM
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You know you could possibly just climb with a modified vise grip.
One handed operation.
Lots of different jaw types.
Adjustable.
Your idea looks interesting though.
How will it stay attached though if it's not loaded?
(This post was edited by airscape on May 11, 2010, 12:56 PM)
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Rudmin
May 11, 2010, 1:04 PM
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mattmaddaloni wrote: The 'idea' of the Anticam isn't new, many have thought about a pinching device. Cool. What stumped me for a very long time was two major issues. 1) How can you make it fit varying sized features 2) How can you place it with one hand of course other problems like weight and strength also apply Several years ago I wanted to climb the Guillotine Flake and it was obvious the Anticam was the way to go. Unfortunately I couldn't figure out the above issues. Then about one year ago I thought about using a V shape with a bottom axle and a spreader bar. The Anticam could spread apart from one central axle. Then a bar could be popped into place and lock off the V from spreading farther. The cams on the end would take up any small adjustments from there. Voila! I had one of the problems solved. Here is the 3D drawings of that first prototype. This was made in Autodesk Inventor
I think it would be more useful if you flipped the cams around and had a regular cam with a spreader bar.
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kachoong
May 11, 2010, 1:48 PM
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I think it's a neat idea... unfortunately the consequences of falling on that contraption in some circumstances are a little dire... especially with the spreader bar sticking out.
Have you thought about making different sizes, where in the smaller range the bar isn't so long and won't stick out as much?
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bigjonnyc
May 11, 2010, 2:22 PM
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mattmaddaloni wrote: It takes imagination to find opportunities to do new things. I also think having great stoke and energy in life is a hard thing to find with so many stresses in our lives. Please do not wreck the stoke and post negative remarks on this thread. Thank you.
"Stoke" is not a noun. Also, people here have every right to post negative feedback on your ideas or designs. You just need to learn to take the good with the bad, and not let other peoples negativity "wreck your stoke."
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maldaly
May 11, 2010, 2:25 PM
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Rudmin wrote: mattmaddaloni wrote: The 'idea' of the Anticam isn't new, many have thought about a pinching device. Cool. What stumped me for a very long time was two major issues. 1) How can you make it fit varying sized features 2) How can you place it with one hand of course other problems like weight and strength also apply Several years ago I wanted to climb the Guillotine Flake and it was obvious the Anticam was the way to go. Unfortunately I couldn't figure out the above issues. Then about one year ago I thought about using a V shape with a bottom axle and a spreader bar. The Anticam could spread apart from one central axle. Then a bar could be popped into place and lock off the V from spreading farther. The cams on the end would take up any small adjustments from there. Voila! I had one of the problems solved. Here is the 3D drawings of that first prototype. This was made in Autodesk Inventor I think it would be more useful if you flipped the cams around and had a regular cam with a spreader bar.
That was called the Sizemo and made by Dave Wagoner (RIP) of CCH. It didn't work.
Mal
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adatesman
May 11, 2010, 2:59 PM
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hafilax
May 11, 2010, 3:43 PM
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You make it sound like those are free climb ready. I'd like to see you place one of those with one hand. 
The clamp isn't the difficult part, it's the activation.
My thoughts are that the lobes have to be much wider apart for stability (comparable to a C4) and for one handed operation it either needs a spring loaded release with lock screw like a big bro or a ratchet mechanism like those auto-adjust vice grips.
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adatesman
May 11, 2010, 4:04 PM
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(This post was edited by adatesman on Aug 12, 2010, 4:54 PM)
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hafilax
May 11, 2010, 4:17 PM
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And what I'm getting at is that none of them will work as is for climbing.
I'm surprised you're not more enthusiastic about this given the homebrew cam competitions. How many of those have outdone what is already commercially available?
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adatesman
May 11, 2010, 4:43 PM
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ryanb
May 11, 2010, 5:07 PM
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I think this thing is awesome, largely because he is actually climbing hardish trad with it.
Sure its a specialty piece you wouldn't always carry but so are big cams, screamers, ball nuts etc... I like the idea of building a piece of gear that lets you climb R/X routes relatively safely without damaging the rock, I'm going to keep my eye open for routes around here where these things could be used to bring the risk factor down to my level and if I find them I'll build a couple.
Possibly ones that can be flipped around for wide cracks too and have a larger section of the spiral on the lobes (like the super cams)...
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mattmaddaloni
May 11, 2010, 5:18 PM
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I don't care if anyone else thinks the Anticam is useless, a waste of time or whatever... I'm highly motivated to see it develop. If your interested too then let's put our heads together. Otherwise I'm sure there are lots of forums and threads about stuff that might interest you more and if your writing here than your wasting your time right?
For those with constructive criticism thanks for your input, it's really fun sharing this adventure with you.
now back to business... I have googled and probed every possible previous invention and material handling device out there. I even used several types as a steel fabricator in my younger years. The point is there just wasn't any device that had the expansion range, one hand operation or was light weight enough to actually carry on a climb and if a easy modification existed I would of jumped on it right away. Why? Because the goal was to climb that pitch free.
As an inventor of rigging equipment I've come to realize that the best ideas are the most simple. When a simple idea is shown it seems completely obvious and people are always amazed that it had not been thought of before. But that's the crazy part, simple, well designed systems are the most difficult to invent and this whole process can be really frustrating.
Version 2 solved some significant problems and allowed me to climb a difficult pitch without too much effort spent on placing the gear. Considering this is it's first year of development and it's not a paid gig I'd say progress is being made...
In my next message I am going to show the tech drawings for version 2. What would be great is if anyone had insight into how to get around the need for the bar.
cheers
mm
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