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evanwish
May 5, 2010, 4:30 PM
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I've heard from a few sources that the small hex's can be filed down to make them offset enough to work in pin scars. I am wondering if this little innovation trick is fact (or just fiction) because I have a few little hex's laying around that never get any use that may be better used as another piece for aiding flared pin scars.
If you have tried it or have ant thoughts on it (like "Yer gonna DIE!!") let me know!
Thanks,
Evan
PS: first heard it mentioned on one post on this thread
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summerprophet
May 5, 2010, 5:38 PM
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The first I heard about this was in Yosemite.
Amon's brother was machining offset hexes for scars circa '99.
You still need to set them with a firm hammer tap though.
Personally, I would prefer the speed and ease of an offset cam or camhook for pinscars.
As always, everyone has their own preferences.
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evanwish
May 5, 2010, 7:53 PM
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It seems you could get some shallow placements with them, but you're right our offset cams and cam hooks would be quicker.
We're using a ~4 ounce tack hammer to help remove stubborn nuts, but using that to set an offset hex would negate a "clean" ascent right?
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summerprophet
May 5, 2010, 8:22 PM
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There is no such thing as a clean ascent.
Everytime I top out, I am covered in a layer of grime, sweat, and filth. Not really cleam by any definition.
Hammerless though........
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swoopee
May 5, 2010, 8:53 PM
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summerprophet wrote: There is no such thing as a clean ascent. Everytime I top out, I am covered in a layer of grime, sweat, and filth. Not really cleam by any definition. Hammerless though........
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evanwish
May 5, 2010, 9:08 PM
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summerprophet wrote: There is no such thing as a clean ascent. Everytime I top out, I am covered in a layer of grime, sweat, and filth. Not really cleam by any definition. Hammerless though........
Ha! I love it. Is it still "hammerless" if its just a 4 ounce tack hammer to help tap the nut tool to get a nut out?
I can see tapping in an offset hex would make it no different than a piton.
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summerprophet
May 5, 2010, 9:42 PM
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Call it what you will, but I believe you just asked me if a tack hammer is a hammer.
The intent is there, that you are creating a clean passage with minimal damage to the route as it exists..... depending on the material of course..... but I am quite confident you are not attempting to set offset hexes in soft sandstone.
But the fact is you got a hammer.
I am not an aid guru by any stretch, but I have done enough to get a feel for what will work, and know enough to realize when PassThePitonsPete is full of shit.
The fact is if it were my route, I would take no offence to you taking a light hammer for cleaning, but some sport climber is going to call you out on "ethics" when you are reliving your stories in the pub.
From Aid climbing to Sport Climbing, this whole regimen of classifying ascents, is really a big bunch of bullshit. clean climbing, hammerless climbing, pink pointing, redpointing, onsight...... sigh.
Climb in the accepted stye or better, with respect to those who have passed before, and respect for those who shall come after...... know in your mind that you have done good, and fuck the punk kid in the corner who topropes 5.10 on a good day, yet questions why you cannot free the aid wall you just spent 4 days on.
Rant Off.
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evanwish
May 5, 2010, 10:41 PM
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Actually that was an entertaining rant. Thank you.
So basically, I could do the slightly offset hexs, set them with a few light taps (but of obviously NOT too hard, for fear of even the slightest rock damage).
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mrtristan
May 11, 2010, 6:32 PM
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Offset hexes... Whoah. I want some.
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evanwish
May 11, 2010, 9:35 PM
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acorneau wrote: tomtom wrote: Rockcentrics are already offset in the long direction. Yes, the BD hexes are as well. However I believe the OP is thinking of having a taper along it's long axis. Think more along the lines of the DMM offsets: [image]http://www.supertopo.com/photos/1/62/137726_27979_XL.jpg[/image]
Yes, true. However, the offset nature is very little and only on the endwise placement. Even in the #1 hex, thats still .45 inches; not very small. At that size or above, i'd probably just use an offset nut (unless its super, SUPER shallow).
I'm thinking more about offset when in its camming orientation.
Maybe that would open up placement options in
-outward flaring parallel cracks where an offset nut might not hold (when a hex or cam might be more favorable).
-spots where nuts don't stick, but are too shallow for an offset cam.
-when a placement is best made by an offset cam, but i want to save them for later.
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hosh
May 11, 2010, 9:44 PM
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anyone interested in manufacturing hexes? I've got an idea that's somewhat novel, I've never seen it before (and I've looked). I've got the idea, I just need someone with the equipment and the know-how... Any interest?
hosh.
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evanwish
May 12, 2010, 3:40 AM
Post #15 of 17
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hosh wrote: anyone interested in manufacturing hexes? I've got an idea that's somewhat novel, I've never seen it before (and I've looked). I've got the idea, I just need someone with the equipment and the know-how... Any interest? hosh.
I'm intrigued!
Maybe we need a 2011 Homemade semi-Passive gear competition! [Hexs and tricams]
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whipper
May 12, 2010, 4:50 AM
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I did that about four years ago for Zion pin scars....Works great. I actually used a belt sander to make them into a perfect baby angle shape. People who see them love them. Go for it, it works.
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jeremy11
May 12, 2010, 7:21 PM
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whipper wrote: I did that about four years ago for Zion pin scars....Works great. I actually used a belt sander to make them into a perfect baby angle shape. People who see them love them. Go for it, it works.
Belt sander is the fastest, normal grinding wheels get clogged up with aluminum, files are fine too, depending on how much material you need to move. Should work fine.
As far as hammer usage.... I once placed a #3 AL nut in a flare like a copperhead. It worked.
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