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untilwhen
May 12, 2010, 6:53 AM
Post #1 of 9
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Registered: Apr 26, 2010
Posts: 18
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Blocking Off a Belay Device
like this
http://www.usmga.net/guidelines/guidelinesblockoff.htm
or this
http://www.planetmountain.com/English/Lab/techniques/mole/
and which 1 is safer ?
thanks !
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gmggg
May 12, 2010, 1:32 PM
Post #2 of 9
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Registered: Jun 25, 2009
Posts: 2099
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untilwhen wrote: Blocking Off a Belay Device like this http://www.usmga.net/guidelines/guidelinesblockoff.htm or this http://www.planetmountain.com/English/Lab/techniques/mole/ and which 1 is safer ? thanks !
This:
Let the shit storm begin!
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bill413
May 12, 2010, 3:03 PM
Post #4 of 9
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Registered: Oct 19, 2004
Posts: 5674
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gmggg wrote: untilwhen wrote: Blocking Off a Belay Device like this http://www.usmga.net/guidelines/guidelinesblockoff.htm or this http://www.planetmountain.com/English/Lab/techniques/mole/ and which 1 is safer ? thanks ! This: [image]http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:W3QgcZIFfkGWQM:http://i.ehow.com/images/GlobalPhoto/Articles/2113452/grigri-main_Full.jpg[/image] Let the shit storm begin!
OK, so you're advocating tying off a tube device with a grigri??
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kovacs69
May 12, 2010, 3:26 PM
Post #5 of 9
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Registered: Jun 16, 2005
Posts: 607
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untilwhen wrote: Blocking Off a Belay Device like this http://www.usmga.net/guidelines/guidelinesblockoff.htm or this http://www.planetmountain.com/English/Lab/techniques/mole/ and which 1 is safer ? thanks !
I have done something similar to the first link only instead of tying the knot off to the rope above the ATC I clipped an extra biener into the loop and then clipped it back into the main part of my harness.
JB
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darkgift06
May 12, 2010, 3:30 PM
Post #6 of 9
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Registered: Mar 16, 2009
Posts: 492
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same thing.. ones just finished with a stopper knot.
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jmvc
May 15, 2010, 7:46 AM
Post #8 of 9
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Registered: Sep 10, 2007
Posts: 647
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Doesn't look like a very safe way to do it if the rope is loaded..
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gunkiemike
May 16, 2010, 2:11 AM
Post #9 of 9
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Registered: Oct 1, 2002
Posts: 2266
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jmvc wrote: Doesn't look like a very safe way to do it if the rope is loaded..
I agree. While it is possible to mule off the brake strand onto a large biner, in this video the brake hand totally lets go of the rope. Pause the video at 0:09 - 0:10 to see this.
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