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jnovakov


May 14, 2010, 1:41 PM
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Staying in shape when no climbing gym or outdoor routes nearby.
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Hey, just wanted to see if you guys had any tips for staying in shape when you don't have access to a gym or any outdoor climbing for a while... I climb 5.11 level in the gym and really want to keep up my progress and not just suck when I come back to climbing... I go to school in another city with a nice gym and outdoor routes nearby... Now that I'm home for the summer, theres no gyms or anything... I will be doing a few outdoor trips this summer and trying to make it to a few gyms... But nothing close to how often I usually like to climb(3-4 times a week). I have a hang board and have been using it as well as my pull up bar... Is this enough? Or is it just inevitable that I will suck when I go back lol. (in the beginning of september)
Jen


(This post was edited by jnovakov on May 14, 2010, 3:49 PM)


potreroed


May 14, 2010, 1:55 PM
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Re: [jnovakov] Staying in shape when no climbing gym or outdoor routes nearby. [In reply to]
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Do lots and lots of fingertip pull-ups and lock-offs on a door jamb. And ignore all the subsequent comments about how this is worthless!!


TomUK


May 14, 2010, 3:48 PM
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Do you do any cardio such as running? Keeps you in a generally good shape which will always help!


jnovakov


May 14, 2010, 3:57 PM
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Re: [jnovakov] Staying in shape when no climbing gym or outdoor routes nearby. [In reply to]
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Yup, I try to go out running 4-5 times a week.

Oh, and I also convinced my dad to build me a campus board in my shed lol... So i suppose that may help as well


(This post was edited by jnovakov on May 14, 2010, 3:58 PM)


gblauer
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May 14, 2010, 5:17 PM
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Re: [jnovakov] Staying in shape when no climbing gym or outdoor routes nearby. [In reply to]
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Can you afford a personal trainer? I took 6 months off of climbing (4 days per week indoors) due to surgery. 4 days after my first surgery I stated with a personal trainer, and then again after the 2nd surgery. The personal trainer really helped build muscles that need building for me. I pretty emerged from my 6 month hiatus at the level where I left off (onsiting gym 10's, some 11's, projecting harder). I like the results so much that I have backed off my gym climbing (too hard on the joints) to a couple of days a week, stayed with the personal trainer and spend the weekend climbing outdoors.

If you can't afford a personal trainer, make up a routine for general strength building, focus on core and don't forget some intense wrist curls.

Good luck!


sungam


May 15, 2010, 3:31 AM
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Crossfit + hangboard.


jaablink


May 15, 2010, 4:43 AM
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Order yourself a couple of truck loads of fieldstone and prep materials to build your parents some nice stone walls and mulch bed borders . 6 hours of rock work 4 days a week coupled with biking, swimming, and running should make you mutant strong with leather thick finger pads by the end of summer .

Ease back into the climbing when you come back. It wont take long to get back up to a high level.


wallwombat


May 15, 2010, 5:12 AM
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Re: [jnovakov] Staying in shape when no climbing gym or outdoor routes nearby. [In reply to]
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I think that with the hangboard and the campus board that your dad is going to build you you should be fine. Especially if you have a few trips planned for the summer break.

Actually, with careful use of the hangboard and some campusing, you will probably be so much stronger that missing your gym sessions wont matter. You'll blow them away when you get back to school.

I wouldn't worry too much.


sungam


May 15, 2010, 8:14 AM
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Re: [wallwombat] Staying in shape when no climbing gym or outdoor routes nearby. [In reply to]
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wallwombat wrote:
Actually, with careful use of the hangboard and some campusing, you will probably be so much stronger that missing your gym sessions wont matter. You'll blow them away when you get back to school.
Except he'll probably have ruined his technique Unsure


jnovakov


May 15, 2010, 8:27 AM
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*** She lol I'm a girl


sungam


May 15, 2010, 9:02 AM
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jnovakov wrote:
*** She lol I'm a girl
Sorry.

She will lose all her technique.


styndall


May 15, 2010, 10:46 AM
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Re: [sungam] Staying in shape when no climbing gym or outdoor routes nearby. [In reply to]
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sungam wrote:
wallwombat wrote:
Actually, with careful use of the hangboard and some campusing, you will probably be so much stronger that missing your gym sessions wont matter. You'll blow them away when you get back to school.
Except he'll probably have ruined his technique Unsure

Technique doesn't go away like strength does.


sungam


May 15, 2010, 4:32 PM
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Re: [styndall] Staying in shape when no climbing gym or outdoor routes nearby. [In reply to]
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styndall wrote:
sungam wrote:
wallwombat wrote:
Actually, with careful use of the hangboard and some campusing, you will probably be so much stronger that missing your gym sessions wont matter. You'll blow them away when you get back to school.
Except he'll probably have ruined his technique Unsure

Technique doesn't go away like strength does.
I would say quite the opposite, especially if there is a large gain in strength without technique, er, "usage". (what would the word be there?)


TomUK


May 15, 2010, 4:52 PM
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Re: [sungam] Staying in shape when no climbing gym or outdoor routes nearby. [In reply to]
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Strength comes and goes but your knowledge of climbing won't suddenly disappear! I reckon technique stays with you whilst strength can easily deplete


wallwombat


May 15, 2010, 5:52 PM
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Re: [jnovakov] Staying in shape when no climbing gym or outdoor routes nearby. [In reply to]
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jnovakov wrote:
*** She lol I'm a girl

Call me Sherlock Holmes but I thought the fact that the original post was signed "Jen" was a bit of a give away.


TomUK


May 16, 2010, 4:58 AM
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Re: [wallwombat] Staying in shape when no climbing gym or outdoor routes nearby. [In reply to]
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wallwombat wrote:
jnovakov wrote:
*** She lol I'm a girl

Call me Sherlock Holmes but I thought the fact that the original post was signed "Jen" was a bit of a give away.

That was the original poster correcting someone...


sungam


May 16, 2010, 5:22 AM
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Re: [TomUK] Staying in shape when no climbing gym or outdoor routes nearby. [In reply to]
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TomUK wrote:
Strength comes and goes but your knowledge of climbing won't suddenly disappear! I reckon technique stays with you whilst strength can easily deplete
Maybe it's different for different people, but my technique definitely takes a hit when I take a break from technical climbing. There's nothing sudden about it either, you just slowly forget efficient body position etc.


wallwombat


May 16, 2010, 5:30 AM
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Tom, look at the original post. Now look at the last word. It's the word Jen . In this neck of the woods, that word is a girl's name.

It was there when I first posted, which was just before sungam posted, referring to the original poster as 'he'.

That's what I was referring to with my Sherlock comment.

(I can't believe I just replied to that Unimpressed)


TomUK


May 16, 2010, 7:24 AM
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wallwombat wrote:
Tom, look at the original post. Now look at the last word. It's the word Jen . In this neck of the woods, that word is a girl's name.

It was there when I first posted, which was just before sungam posted, referring to the original poster as 'he'.

That's what I was referring to with my Sherlock comment.

(I can't believe I just replied to that Unimpressed)

I'm well aware of that. You just didn't make it very clear - seemed to me that you were correcting the original poster themselves. Oh well; the amount of crap non-climbing chat on these forums is amazing! oops!

Talk about climbing shall we?

Ye i suppose above has a point - it does depend on the person but i've personally found that technique is easily remembered when needed.


wallwombat


May 16, 2010, 7:33 AM
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TomUK wrote:
i've personally found that technique is easily remembered when needed.

I agree. I've had long lay offs due to injury and work and other stuff and I find that it's not technique that I lose, it's strength and flexibility.


jnovakov


May 16, 2010, 8:26 AM
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wallwombat wrote:
Tom, look at the original post. Now look at the last word. It's the word Jen . In this neck of the woods, that word is a girl's name.

It was there when I first posted, which was just before sungam posted, referring to the original poster as 'he'.

That's what I was referring to with my Sherlock comment.

(I can't believe I just replied to that Unimpressed)

Maybe he misread Jen for Jon lol.

I had to take the same break(4 months) last year when I went back home for summer... When I got back to school my technique was still decent (back to normal within a week or so), I just couldn't hang on to anything... So I agree with everyone who is saying that you don't loose technique as quickly as strength. That being said, I wasn't actually doing any strength training that summer. So I can't really say anything about strength gain without a continuation of climbing deterring technique.


sungam


May 16, 2010, 8:27 AM
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wallwombat wrote:
TomUK wrote:
i've personally found that technique is easily remembered when needed.

I agree. I've had long lay offs due to injury and work and other stuff and I find that it's not technique that I lose, it's strength and flexibility.
Fair enough. I found that after my roadtrip, most of which was spent climbing 5.10 and below, my technique was shocking. I was still quite fit (if a little heavier, damnz you american foodz!) and kinda strong, but I just wouldn't naturally kinda shift into better body positions on steep ground. I would pull too hard.


WordsVerbatim


Jun 22, 2010, 12:44 PM
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Re: [jnovakov] Staying in shape when no climbing gym or outdoor routes nearby. [In reply to]
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jnovakov wrote:
Hey, just wanted to see if you guys had any tips for staying in shape when you don't have access to a gym or any outdoor climbing for a while... I climb 5.11 level in the gym and really want to keep up my progress and not just suck when I come back to climbing... I go to school in another city with a nice gym and outdoor routes nearby... Now that I'm home for the summer, theres no gyms or anything... I will be doing a few outdoor trips this summer and trying to make it to a few gyms... But nothing close to how often I usually like to climb(3-4 times a week). I have a hang board and have been using it as well as my pull up bar... Is this enough? Or is it just inevitable that I will suck when I go back lol. (in the beginning of september)
Jen


Female here, same story basically! I was projecting .11s, went to the gym 4 times a week... Now I'm home with no gyms or rocks in sight. You're lucky your dad is willing to build a campus board! My grandmother doesn't even know if she'll let me hang a pullup bar on the door frame. :(

I went back to my university this past weekend and climbed a bit. Man, is my technique and strength shot... I was projecting .11s when I left, and I could barely get up an .8 when I got back for those couple of days.

So, in short... I'll be stalking this post for any tips. :)


sp00ki


Jun 23, 2010, 8:14 AM
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jnovakov wrote:
Hey, just wanted to see if you guys had any tips for staying in shape when you don't have access to a gym or any outdoor climbing for a while... I climb 5.11 level in the gym and really want to keep up my progress and not just suck when I come back to climbing... I go to school in another city with a nice gym and outdoor routes nearby... Now that I'm home for the summer, theres no gyms or anything... I will be doing a few outdoor trips this summer and trying to make it to a few gyms... But nothing close to how often I usually like to climb(3-4 times a week). I have a hang board and have been using it as well as my pull up bar... Is this enough? Or is it just inevitable that I will suck when I go back lol. (in the beginning of september)
Jen

http://nmcquaid.blogspot.com/...bing-wall-setup.html



The only thing that maintains climbing ability is climbing. Cardio is fine, but there's specific stuff going on in your arms as you train to lengthen the time before you get pumped that only climbing can train.
Similarly, forearm strength, shoulder strength, technique, etc... running is not going to help you. If you want to keep your edge, climb (or do stuff as similar to climbing as possible).


(This post was edited by sp00ki on Jun 23, 2010, 8:17 AM)


sp00ki


Jun 23, 2010, 8:26 AM
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This one's cool and minimal too:



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