Forums: Climbing Information: Regional Discussions:
Stiff-Neked Fools, North Forty, HCR
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Regional Discussions

Premier Sponsor:

 


acorneau


May 20, 2010, 8:40 AM
Post #1 of 8 (2153 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 6, 2008
Posts: 2889

Stiff-Neked Fools, North Forty, HCR  (North_America: United_States: Arkansas: Buffalo_National_River: Horseshoe_Canyon_Ranch)
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Just a heads up...

We were up in Arkansas this past weekend climbing at HCR. Got on this previous-trad route, now glue-in sport route.

Be careful of the anchors at the top of this climb. Unlike most of the other anchors that use hex-head Rawl/Powers bolts, these have stud bolts with nuts.

When I arrived at the anchors the right nut was half way off the threads of the bolt! The left nut was also loose but still on the bolt. I tightened them down as best as I could with my fingers since I left my wrench in my pack (yes, I carry a wrench for this kind of thing!).

The Trading Post was closed when we were leaving so I left a small note for them. Hopefully they saw it and have since fixed the issue.

Again, take care and don't blindly trust those bolts!


(This post was edited by acorneau on May 20, 2010, 8:48 AM)


pendereki


May 25, 2010, 1:16 PM
Post #2 of 8 (2097 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 21, 2004
Posts: 323

Re: [acorneau] Stiff-Neked Fools, North Forty, HCR [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Were you on the route left of African Herbman? I also forgot my wrench and hand-tightened tightened those bolts----two weekends ago! I reported them to the staff. The staff membr informed me that he had put up that route and several others the day before. He said he would get up there and tighten them. I guess it did not get done!

I am now packing my wrench again and checking all bolts.


acorneau


May 25, 2010, 1:49 PM
Post #3 of 8 (2075 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 6, 2008
Posts: 2889

Re: [pendereki] Stiff-Neked Fools, North Forty, HCR [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Yes, it's the one between African Herbman and Greatest Show on Earth. Starts with a wide ledge about at 6 or 7 feet and a right-facing flake/crack about half way up.

They used glue-in bolts for all the intermediate protection but used stud bolts for the top anchors. My guess is they used stud bolts at the top so they could immediately rap down to drill and set the glue-ins. They should take out the studs and replace them with glue-ins as well, that way they/we won't have to worry about the nuts falling off the stud bolts.

Unfortunately, this is another trad climb that has been retro-bolted. (I also got on Green Goblin and lead it sans-bolts.) Don't know why they're bolting up all the trad climbs out there.
Unsure


pendereki


May 29, 2010, 6:13 AM
Post #4 of 8 (2017 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 21, 2004
Posts: 323

Re: [acorneau] Stiff-Neked Fools, North Forty, HCR [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Bolting trad climbs is the Local ethic at hcr. I got to climb stii neked fools before the bolts, the pro was tricky, I had fun!

When I climbed it this last time, I could not tell if the bolts were ever torqued down. It looked like the person bolting might have been hanging off the tree and inserted the bolts then rapped down, forgetting to tighten them. Therefore I backed up the anchors with a Biner on the top bolt.
Did you get the biner? I hope so, it is fun to know where gear goes after I walk away. How much was the left bolt sticking out? When I hand tightened it, there was aproxzmatly 1/3 of an inch of threads sticking out from the nut, did it pull out further?


acorneau


May 29, 2010, 7:52 AM
Post #5 of 8 (1999 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 6, 2008
Posts: 2889

Re: [pendereki] Stiff-Neked Fools, North Forty, HCR [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

pendereki wrote:
Did you get the biner?

There was no biner left when I climbed it, so it's floating out there somewhere.

In reply to:
How much was the left bolt sticking out?

The bolt itself looked like it was well set, just about 1/4" to 1/3" of threads beyond the nut/hanger and the nut was slightly loose. The right bolt had it's nut almost all the way off because of the way the hanger turns when loaded.


Partner j_ung


Jul 14, 2010, 1:16 PM
Post #6 of 8 (1839 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18689

Re: [acorneau] Stiff-Neked Fools, North Forty, HCR [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

acorneau wrote:
I tightened them down as best as I could with my fingers since I left my wrench in my pack (yes, I carry a wrench for this kind of thing!).

Sorry for the thread drift. Unless somebody can be reasonably certain they aren't passing the bolt's specified torque, they probably shouldn't be using a wrench. I'm not saying you specifically shouldn't use a wrench. I just wanted to point out that probably not everybody should.


boadman


Jul 14, 2010, 2:31 PM
Post #7 of 8 (1803 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 6, 2003
Posts: 726

Re: [j_ung] Stiff-Neked Fools, North Forty, HCR [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

A little lock tight is the best option.


Bats


Jul 14, 2010, 4:36 PM
Post #8 of 8 (1771 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 26, 2007
Posts: 485

Re: [acorneau] Stiff-Neked Fools, North Forty, HCR [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Call or email the Johnsons, the owners. They seem to be very safety conscious people, perhaps thats why all the bolting. Sam's Throne is only 30 minutes away and its mostly trad.


Forums : Climbing Information : Regional Discussions

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook