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jonathan.gaillard


May 18, 2010, 2:52 PM
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one nut per biner
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Does anyone here (that is good at picking a piece the first time) rack all their pro on one biner each? I'm somewhat new to the trad game and was thinking about changing things up now that I am a little better at picking gear.
How about taking nuts and putting a quicklink on the wire, with a flexible dogbone and biner, making them similiar to racked cams (that have their own biners). Then hexes on webbing just need a biner. So everything is grab and plug and if needed extension you could grab slings that are perhaps twist racked on one biner each?

Does that sound reasonable for quick climbing and with minimal motions and not to heavy?
I figure the added biners on the nuts is offset by not carrying two binered draws.


patto


May 18, 2010, 3:04 PM
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Re: [jonathan.gaillard] one nut per biner [In reply to]
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No. That would require too much gear and too much weight. Far too unecessary.

I carry 30 nuts when I climb. I would hate to use your suggested method. Shocked
*double set of nuts 1-10 DMM, WC
*6 Peenuts
*4 RPs (proper RPs)


karmiclimber


May 18, 2010, 3:07 PM
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patto wrote:
No. That would require too much gear and too much weight. Far too unecessary.

I carry 30 nuts when I climb. I would hate to use your suggested method. Shocked
*double set of nuts 1-10 DMM, WC
*6 Peenuts
*4 RPs (proper RPs)

LOL. I am picturing him going into REI and saying "Could I please have 100 biners? Yes, 100. Thank you."
J/K. I rack everything from smallest to biggest. So, I put all my micro stoppers from smallest to biggest on one biner. Cams, smallest to biggest, two to a biner, unless I have doubles, then the doubles go on the same biner. Etc. Etc. So, I don't have to think about it too much when I get up there.


granite_grrl


May 18, 2010, 3:09 PM
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Re: [jonathan.gaillard] one nut per biner [In reply to]
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This is actually going to make it much worse when trying to figure out what size nut you want for a placement. You're more than welcome to try it of course, but I'm just saying that there's a reason that you never see anyone doing this.


kennoyce


May 18, 2010, 3:13 PM
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Re: [jonathan.gaillard] one nut per biner [In reply to]
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That would be retarded. you wouldn't be able to fit that many biners on your gear loops and I don't think anyone would want to carry a gear sling just for nuts.

If I'm carrying 2 sets of nuts up one climb, that doesn't mean I'll carry 20 draws (one for each nut) because i'm not going to place every nut i'm carrying.

So in answer to your question: no, that doesn't sound reasonable for quick climbing and with minimal motions and not to heavy (wow that sentence sucks).


csproul


May 18, 2010, 3:23 PM
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Re: [jonathan.gaillard] one nut per biner [In reply to]
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As a general rule, no. I carry 2 or 3 biners with all my nuts. However, I have been known to pre-rack a key nut on a draw for a redpoint attempt. That way I can quickly grab it, place it, and clip it. I did this just this last weekend for my hardest trad redpoint.


adatesman


May 18, 2010, 4:08 PM
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markcarlson


May 18, 2010, 4:30 PM
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Re: [jonathan.gaillard] one nut per biner [In reply to]
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jonathan.gaillard wrote:
Does anyone here (that is good at picking a piece the first time) rack all their pro on one biner each?

I suppose I would if I just did a pitch but took/fell, got to the top, lowered/rapped, and wanted to try to do the pitch again clean. That is assuming I did not want to change any of the pro placed on the last attempt.


bill413


May 18, 2010, 7:22 PM
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jonathan.gaillard wrote:
Does anyone here (that is good at picking a piece the first time) rack all their pro on one biner each? I'm somewhat new to the trad game and was thinking about changing things up now that I am a little better at picking gear.
How about taking nuts and putting a quicklink on the wire, with a flexible dogbone and biner, making them similiar to racked cams (that have their own biners). Then hexes on webbing just need a biner. So everything is grab and plug and if needed extension you could grab slings that are perhaps twist racked on one biner each?

Does that sound reasonable for quick climbing and with minimal motions and not to heavy?
I figure the added biners on the nuts is offset by not carrying two binered draws.

It turns out that a lot of the bulk my rack is the biners. I recently climbed with a friends rack where he had multiple cams per biner, and it was much svelter than mine...I'm not convinced about it though. We both have multiple nuts on a single biner.

If you knew exactly which pieces you were going to plug where, and were going for a lightweight attempt, then preracking one per draw would make sense. But, for normal climbing, as others have said, it would make your rack too bulky, heavy, and not help that much in terms of "fumble factor."

But - try & see. Just don't invest in it until you do.


jonathan.gaillard


May 18, 2010, 8:43 PM
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Re: [bill413] one nut per biner [In reply to]
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Ok, I am convinced, you guys make some good points. Some of you though need to relax and stop pouncing on people geesus. It was just a thought.


majid_sabet


May 18, 2010, 8:54 PM
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Re: [karmiclimber] one nut per biner [In reply to]
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karmiclimber wrote:
patto wrote:
No. That would require too much gear and too much weight. Far too unecessary.

I carry 30 nuts when I climb. I would hate to use your suggested method. Shocked
*double set of nuts 1-10 DMM, WC
*6 Peenuts
*4 RPs (proper RPs)

LOL. I am picturing him going into REI and saying "Could I please have 100 biners? Yes, 100. Thank you."
J/K. I rack everything from smallest to biggest. So, I put all my micro stoppers from smallest to biggest on one biner. Cams, smallest to biggest, two to a biner, unless I have doubles, then the doubles go on the same biner. Etc. Etc. So, I don't have to think about it too much when I get up there.

I got like 200+ biner in my climbing room so what does that mean ?


shimanilami


May 18, 2010, 10:39 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] one nut per biner [In reply to]
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majid_sabet wrote:
I got like 200+ biner in my climbing room so what does that mean ?

You have a climbing room?!

Is it padded?


guangzhou


May 18, 2010, 10:40 PM
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I carry a set and half of nuts on a binner. One side has a set and half of Wild Country Rocks, the other Side has a set and half of DMM Walnuts.


I have done a few single pitch routes where I tried to figure out what piece i needed before living the ground and put a nut/draw together for sequential move.


karmiclimber


May 19, 2010, 2:52 AM
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majid_sabet wrote:
karmiclimber wrote:
patto wrote:
No. That would require too much gear and too much weight. Far too unecessary.

I carry 30 nuts when I climb. I would hate to use your suggested method. Shocked
*double set of nuts 1-10 DMM, WC
*6 Peenuts
*4 RPs (proper RPs)

LOL. I am picturing him going into REI and saying "Could I please have 100 biners? Yes, 100. Thank you."
J/K. I rack everything from smallest to biggest. So, I put all my micro stoppers from smallest to biggest on one biner. Cams, smallest to biggest, two to a biner, unless I have doubles, then the doubles go on the same biner. Etc. Etc. So, I don't have to think about it too much when I get up there.

I got like 200+ biner in my climbing room so what does that mean ?

That you have a serious jones for biners?


welle


May 19, 2010, 9:08 AM
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Re: [jonathan.gaillard] one nut per biner [In reply to]
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Jonathan, what most climbers do is divide the set of nuts into two or three - bigger pieces on one biner and smaller pieces on another. This way you reduce the risk of losing all your stoppers if you accidentally drop them and makes fiddling with different sizes easier. Plus if you can see the climb from the ground, you can choose to leave either set on the ground to reduce weight. Also, racking the stoppers on ovals is super-handy.


summerprophet


May 19, 2010, 10:01 AM
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Re: [majid_sabet] one nut per biner [In reply to]
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majid_sabet wrote:
I got like 200+ biner in my climbing room so what does that mean ?

Means you have a hoarding problem.


shoo


May 19, 2010, 10:24 AM
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jonathan.gaillard wrote:
How about taking nuts and putting a quicklink on the wire, with a flexible dogbone and biner, making them similiar to racked cams (that have their own biners). Then hexes on webbing just need a biner. So everything is grab and plug and if needed extension you could grab slings that are perhaps twist racked on one biner each?

God I want someone to try this.


swoopee


May 19, 2010, 11:16 AM
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Re: [adatesman] one nut per biner [In reply to]
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adatesman wrote:
patto wrote:
No. That would require too much gear and too much weight. Far too unnecessary.

But what if you were the sort that felt your harness was inadequate because it was non-redundant, and therefore backed it up with a hand tied webbing swami?

Forget the harness. I'm going back to using a bowline on a coil and Goldline rope.


willwill


May 20, 2010, 4:55 PM
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Shouldn't your topic be one biner per nut, or do you intend to buy nuts until you can have one one every biner on your rack?


milesenoell


May 20, 2010, 5:45 PM
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jonathan.gaillard wrote:
How about taking nuts and putting a quicklink on the wire, with a flexible dogbone and biner, making them similiar to racked cams (that have their own biners). Then hexes on webbing just need a biner. So everything is grab and plug and if needed extension you could grab slings that are perhaps twist racked on one biner each?

I think you should totally try it out. Nobody here has done it, and while it isn't likely to be something you keep doing, it should be humorous for those watching.


acorneau


May 20, 2010, 5:56 PM
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jonathan.gaillard wrote:
How about taking nuts and putting a quicklink on the wire, with a flexible dogbone and biner, making them similiar to racked cams (that have their own biners).

I know every one else has beaten you up about everything else in your post, but I've got to respond to this part (for some reason?!?).

Peguet, the maker of Mallion Rapide-brand quicklinks, makes a Zink/aluminum alloy quicklink (they call "Zicral") in two sizes. 7mm, which has a breaking load of ~12kN and weighs a scant 18 grams (less than a CAMP Nano!); and a 10mm which has a BL of ~24kN at almost 49 grams (about the weight of a bigger non-locker).

Most nuts have a strength rating of 10-12kN and most placements in rock will only hold ~10kN max anyway, so let's go for the 7mm quicklinks.

14 quicklinks (for 14 nuts) with 7mm quicklinks = 8.8 oz.
14 Nano biners (@23 grams each) = 11.3 oz.

Two and a half ounces saved. I say go for it!




Laugh


desertwanderer81


May 21, 2010, 3:28 PM
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jonathan.gaillard wrote:
Does anyone here (that is good at picking a piece the first time) rack all their pro on one biner each? I'm somewhat new to the trad game and was thinking about changing things up now that I am a little better at picking gear.
How about taking nuts and putting a quicklink on the wire, with a flexible dogbone and biner, making them similiar to racked cams (that have their own biners). Then hexes on webbing just need a biner. So everything is grab and plug and if needed extension you could grab slings that are perhaps twist racked on one biner each?

Does that sound reasonable for quick climbing and with minimal motions and not to heavy?
I figure the added biners on the nuts is offset by not carrying two binered draws.

Most Biners I know typically have 2 nuts each or no nuts at all. Then again, most whom I know don't like to be called Biners.


redlude97


May 21, 2010, 3:57 PM
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Re: [desertwanderer81] one nut per biner [In reply to]
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desertwanderer81 wrote:
jonathan.gaillard wrote:
Does anyone here (that is good at picking a piece the first time) rack all their pro on one biner each? I'm somewhat new to the trad game and was thinking about changing things up now that I am a little better at picking gear.
How about taking nuts and putting a quicklink on the wire, with a flexible dogbone and biner, making them similiar to racked cams (that have their own biners). Then hexes on webbing just need a biner. So everything is grab and plug and if needed extension you could grab slings that are perhaps twist racked on one biner each?

Does that sound reasonable for quick climbing and with minimal motions and not to heavy?
I figure the added biners on the nuts is offset by not carrying two binered draws.

Most Biners I know typically have 2 nuts each or no nuts at all. Then again, most whom I know don't like to be called Biners.
Those would be beaners Tongue


acorneau


May 21, 2010, 4:27 PM
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desertwanderer81 wrote:
Most Biners I know typically have 2 nuts each or no nuts at all. Then again, most whom I know don't like to be called Biners.


Humor fail.


USnavy


May 22, 2010, 1:24 AM
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Hell no, I put one set of nuts on a big carabiner. I carry extra biners to clip the nuts to if I am doing aid or if I am free climbing, I use draws.

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