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edge


May 26, 2010, 8:33 AM
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Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12?
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So, I have climbed a few areas over a few years, but am curious.

What do you consider the best single crag for these grades?

Please don't answer with an area like "Yosemite," unless you want to be more specific and say "the Cookie." Then you will be wrong, in my opinion, but I would still want to hear from you.


brokesomeribs


May 26, 2010, 8:55 AM
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Re: [edge] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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Hmmm... RRG, methinks.


shrug7


May 26, 2010, 9:01 AM
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brokesomeribs wrote:
Hmmm... RRG, methinks.
That's a big f-ing crag.

but the few good trad areas in the Red I think are.
Fortress, Indian Creek and Long wall.


outside the Red:
Drapers bluff in Soill before it closed has/had some great classic 10s /11s.

And Devils Tower has a crap ton, all in one area.


(This post was edited by shrug7 on May 26, 2010, 9:02 AM)


lithophiliac


May 26, 2010, 9:02 AM
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The Lower Town Wall at Index, Washington fits the bill for all three!!


yevquest


May 26, 2010, 9:03 AM
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Re: [lithophiliac] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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T-wall has a pretty nice spread of gear routes at 10-12.


edge


May 26, 2010, 9:05 AM
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brokesomeribs wrote:
Hmmm... RRG, methinks.

This is in the trad forum.

As much as I like pulling on pockets, and pockets, and more pockets, I wouldn't even place the Red in the top 5 for sp0rt areas. Seriously, I prefer diversity.


(This post was edited by edge on May 26, 2010, 9:06 AM)


caughtinside


May 26, 2010, 9:06 AM
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Hard to say without any more criteria. There are walls at the Red and at Indian Creek which could both be contenders, but it comes down to personal taste.

For 5.11 cracks, I'd be tempted to say Cat Wall at the Creek. 5.10, maybe Arch Rock in the Valley?


boymeetsrock


May 26, 2010, 9:13 AM
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Spider Wall Adirondacks. NTICT


edge


May 26, 2010, 9:18 AM
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For 10 minute approaches, unlimited possibilities, dare I throw out Cathedral Ledge in NH?

Hell, I guess Whitehorse now fits the bill as well, and then you have face, cracks, friction, everything.


(This post was edited by edge on May 26, 2010, 9:20 AM)


gmggg


May 26, 2010, 9:35 AM
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edge wrote:
For 10 minute approaches, unlimited possibilities, dare I throw out Cathedral Ledge in NH?

Hell, I guess Whitehorse now fits the bill as well, and then you have face, cracks, friction, everything.

This was going to be my vote, specifically the barber wall for the 10's and 12's.

And you can't ignore Josh, take your pick on a specific crag.

Back to the east coast... Crow Hill. It's just single pitch, but the historical perspective is worth it. Veritable land mark climbs for 10's and 11's.


chadnsc


May 26, 2010, 9:40 AM
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I would say Devils Tower, but then again I'm limited by my geographic location. Tongue


ryanb


May 26, 2010, 10:03 AM
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In terms of concentration and quality I think that the lower town wall at index is the best single crag for 5.11s i've been to. Not so much for any other grade though.


irregularpanda


May 26, 2010, 10:32 AM
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ryanb wrote:
In terms of concentration and quality I think that the lower town wall at index is the best single crag for 5.11s i've been to. Not so much for any other grade though.

Well, except that 5.11+ in index is at least .12b anywhere else in the nation.

But other than that I would agree, 5.10 is kinda few and far between there.


Partner camhead


May 26, 2010, 10:32 AM
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I'll second T-Wall, since it's technically one "crag."

a few more, as far as classic, 5.10-5.12 trad lines. Emphasis on diversity and concentration.

-Fern Buttress or Bridge Buttress, New River Gorge, WV
-Paradise Forks, AZ
-Way Rambo, Indian Creek, UT
-Lost City, Gunks, NY
-Penny Lane, Squamish, BC
-Morning Glory Spire, City of Rocks, ID


edge


May 26, 2010, 10:48 AM
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chadnsc wrote:
I would say Devils Tower, but then again I'm limited by my geographic location. Tongue

DT is awesome, but little variety.


EvilMonkey


May 26, 2010, 11:28 AM
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Trollhouse Wall.


Partner cracklover


May 26, 2010, 11:32 AM
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edge wrote:
So, I have climbed a few areas over a few years, but am curious.

What do you consider the best single crag for these grades?

Please don't answer with an area like "Yosemite," unless you want to be more specific and say "the Cookie." Then you will be wrong, in my opinion, but I would still want to hear from you.

For 5.10, I'd have to say the Trapps in the Gunks.

For 5.11, I'd say it's got to be at Indian Creek, but personal preference would dictate among a few of the crags.

For 5.12, I have absolutely no idea.

GO


bandycoot


May 26, 2010, 11:58 AM
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Needles


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May 26, 2010, 11:58 AM
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If you're looking for variety, forget about my suggestion at IC. In fact, if that's the case, you can forget about the Trapps, too.

In fact, most really top-notch destination crags are superb in part because they're so superlative, so pure, in some particular way.

GO


edge


May 26, 2010, 12:10 PM
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bandycoot wrote:
Needles

Not really a single crag, but thanks for playing.

I love it there too.


BirminghamBen


May 26, 2010, 12:12 PM
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The Tennessee Wall...variety and many routes in the 10 and 11 range, amongst other grades.

Hawksbill at Linville Gorge in NC has a high concentration of 11s and 12s with much variety...but I've never been there.

Indian Creek is up there for 11s in my book.

Don't know about the 12s...yet.


bandycoot


May 26, 2010, 12:17 PM
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edge wrote:
bandycoot wrote:
Needles

Not really a single crag, but thanks for playing.

I love it there too.

Pick almost any of the faces there and it meets your criteria. Slab/knobs/corners/aretes/cracks/face in the 5.10-5.12 range. I think I just drooled on my keyboard a little.....


chadnsc


May 26, 2010, 12:33 PM
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edge wrote:
chadnsc wrote:
I would say Devils Tower, but then again I'm limited by my geographic location. Tongue

DT is awesome, but little variety.

What! It's got thin cracks and loads of steming! How much more variety do you need. Wink


edge


May 26, 2010, 12:33 PM
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bandycoot wrote:
edge wrote:
bandycoot wrote:
Needles

Not really a single crag, but thanks for playing.

I love it there too.

Pick almost any of the faces there and it meets your criteria. Slab/knobs/corners/aretes/cracks/face in the 5.10-5.12 range. I think I just drooled on my keyboard a little.....

Fair enough, but do any one of those single faces match up to the variety of previously mentioned areas?


Partner camhead


May 26, 2010, 12:45 PM
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bandycoot wrote:
edge wrote:
bandycoot wrote:
Needles

Not really a single crag, but thanks for playing.

I love it there too.

Pick almost any of the faces there and it meets your criteria. Slab/knobs/corners/aretes/cracks/face in the 5.10-5.12 range. I think I just drooled on my keyboard a little.....

No shit. The Needles are the #1 crag on my list to get to. Too bad they're so far away.

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