5.10 is THE grade at the Trapps in the Gunks. It's mind boggling how many amazing pitches of 5.10 climbing there is there. Shit, the Mac wall alone has 14 pitches of excellent 5.10a-d. That's only about 120 feet of cliff, (width). That's about .01 percet of the Trapps. Other 5.10 classics include Simple Suff, 10,000, Falled, erect Direction, Doubleissima, Lakatissima, Obstacle Delusion, Feast of Fools, Nurses Aid, Wegetables, Nosedive, retribution, Matinee, P-38, Stirrup Trouble, Welcome to the Gunks, Balrog, Never neverland, Cheap Thrills, Amber waves of Pain, April Showers, Frustration Syndrome, Beatle Brow Bulge....

These are just the multi starred classics mind you, and that is by no means a complete list. I would say confidently that The Trapps has it for 5.10.

RR

I'd put CH squarely in the top 5 Mass crags. But then we all know that's not saying much.

GO

oh yeah!! Elitist douchery FTW!

5.10 is THE grade at the Trapps in the Gunks. It's mind boggling how many amazing pitches of 5.10 climbing there is there. Shit, the Mac wall alone has 14 pitches of excellent 5.10a-d. That's only about 120 feet of cliff, (width). That's about .01 percet of the Trapps. Other 5.10 classics include Simple Suff, 10,000, Falled, erect Direction, Doubleissima, Lakatissima, Obstacle Delusion, Feast of Fools, Nurses Aid, Wegetables, Nosedive, retribution, Matinee, P-38, Stirrup Trouble, Welcome to the Gunks, Balrog, Never neverland, Cheap Thrills, Amber waves of Pain, April Showers, Frustration Syndrome, Beatle Brow Bulge....

These are just the multi starred classics mind you, and that is by no means a complete list. I would say confidently that The Trapps has it for 5.10.

RR

I've lived in NH for almost all my life, and have climbed in Mass exactly twice. Once at Farley and once at Hammond Pond.

I offer no excuse other than the fact that I am one hour's drive, give or take, from Cathedral, Whitehorse, Cannon, P-tuck, Band M, all of the Kanc crags, and Rumney.

I know I may be missing out on some Mass goodness, but really, look at the above named areas and tell me Crow Hill belongs in the conversation.

THe thing about the gunks though is you've got the 5.5 crowd bringing down the coolness.

Yeah, but despite the massive crowds on a nice fall weekend, you'll have more competition for the 10s in BVC than you will for the 10s at the Trapps. Seriously.

GO

I started out by saying it didn't belong in the conversation. 9 time out of 10 I'd just keep driving to Farley. I'm arguing with the assessment that it's choss. I have yet to do a climb there that I wouldn't happily do again. Also, any loose rock there is on the top on the cliff, not on the climbs, and the rock quality is quite good. I fully plan on making a stop there to do Cro-magnon during my 2 week vacation back home.

-Josh

Isn't it uncouth to claim the PT after is was completed? Lame.

Cookie and Spider's Web for density of mega-classics.

I rule out all sport crags for this discussion.

If you go to bigger walls or more loosely defined crags, it gets more confusing to say what is best.

Needles has got to get a mention. Gunks, Seneca East Face, Squamish, Looking Glass, the New (twenty miles of climbing?), Index, Indian Creek, Eldo, Mt. Lemmon. Where do you draw the line?

This is kerrect. As much as I hate to agree with rangerrob, See Eye is wrong!

I really, really like the Gunks, but prefer the variety of a crag like Cathedral, where you can face climb, crack climb, slab climb, corner climb, layback, etc.

And it fit's all three grade requests admirably.

Rangerrob heard about your heinous sport climbing, gear in-situ tactics, consulted the huddled 5.5 ethically pure masses, and it was decided to confiscate your gear and revoke your gunks daypass. The gunks is Trad, bitch!!

THe thing about the gunks though is you've got the 5.5 crowd bringing down the coolness.

Excuse me but the 5.5 crowd is what makes any crag cool.

^^^ CI deflects the subject from his rage-shitz filled pants.

GO

Your profile says you lead 5.1. Just saying.

I've lived in NH for almost all my life, and have climbed in Mass exactly twice. Once at Farley and once at Hammond Pond.

I offer no excuse other than the fact that I am one hour's drive, give or take, from Cathedral, Whitehorse, Cannon, P-tuck, Band M, all of the Kanc crags, and Rumney.

I know I may be missing out on some Mass goodness, but really, look at the above named areas and tell me Crow Hill belongs in the conversation.

Well, you're a donny so I wouldn't expect you to be familiar with the rules guidelines.

Seriously though, four crags keep popping up. The Trapps, Lower Index, Black Velvet Canyon, and Cathedral. so it comes down to that. we can eliminate at least one based on approach...so goodbye BVC. I've never been top Index, so I don't know what the approach is, but it is hard to beat the Trapps for lazy climbing.