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caughtinside
May 27, 2010, 8:57 PM
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boymeetsrock wrote: caughtinside wrote: boymeetsrock wrote: caughtinside wrote: oh yeah!! Elitist douchery FTW! Isn't it uncouth to claim the PT after is was completed? Lame. Well, you're a donny so I wouldn't expect you to be familiar with the rules guidelines. I'll cut you.
Nice try. If you weren't so weke I might be concerned.
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boymeetsrock
May 27, 2010, 9:02 PM
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Missed another one.
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boymeetsrock
May 27, 2010, 9:05 PM
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Black Canyon, North Chasm View Wall
Note sure it counts as a 'crag' though.
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cchas
May 28, 2010, 2:12 AM
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Camhead,
If you thought Paradise Forks was pretty good, you should check out the Waterfall in Oak Creek Canyon (and if you haven't been there in the last couple of years, especially last year, you haven't been there). Terminator at the Waterfall makes Paradise Forks looks like a choss pile. Hell, after climbing at the cookie Cliff for nearly 10 yrs, I'd say the Waterfall makes the Cookie Cliff in Yosemite look like a second rate cliff.
For me
1) Grand Wall/University Wall area in Squamish
2) Reservoir Wall in Indian Creek
3) Cat Wall in Indian Creek
4) Waterfall in Oak Creek Canyon (Arizona)
5) thinking about #5..... the Trapps is pretty good (climbed there for more then a decade) but the 5.10's and 5.11's are so dilute stacked betweenm the 5.0's to 5.9's that I don't qualify it, whereas at Paradise Forks, Indian Creek, Waterfall, to go from one 5.10-5.13 to another you just move your rope 10ft to the right or left for another 5 star routre.
And camhead, next time you are in Az drop me a line and I can show you some stuff that makes a lot of the stuff at the Creek look OK.
(This post was edited by cchas on May 28, 2010, 2:14 AM)
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justroberto
May 28, 2010, 4:03 PM
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caughtinside wrote: Out west 5.5 doesn't even exist.
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edge
May 28, 2010, 4:11 PM
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justroberto wrote: caughtinside wrote: Out west 5.5 doesn't even exist. Sure it does. It's just called 5.8.
Well, if we are going to bring grades into this, then I will say that I grew up in NH, and cut my teeth on NH 5.9+'s. This is localese for full on 5.10+.
My first trip to the Valley, my first route was the West Face of Rixon's, and thought it was a stroll. Literally, I thought it was a 5.8.
Until we went to rap off and the rope got hung up twice...
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hafilax
May 28, 2010, 4:12 PM
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I was going to suggest the Grand Wall area as well. The first pitch of a lot of the multipitch classics are terrific. I wasn't sure that the density of climbs was up to snuff.
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cchas
May 28, 2010, 5:22 PM
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edge wrote: justroberto wrote: caughtinside wrote: Out west 5.5 doesn't even exist. Sure it does. It's just called 5.8. Well, if we are going to bring grades into this, then I will say that I grew up in NH, and cut my teeth on NH 5.9+'s. This is localese for full on 5.10+. My first trip to the Valley, my first route was the West Face of Rixon's, and thought it was a stroll. Literally, I thought it was a 5.8. Until we went to rap off and the rope got hung up twice...
and I always laugh at posts like this. When I moved from the East I was climbing 5.10's and a few .11's at the Gunks and had just spent 2 yrs doing R/X rated climbs there and climbed extensively on the East Coast.
When I moved to San Francisco I spent my first year getting my #ss handed to me on Yosemite and Tuolumne 5.9's.
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edge
May 28, 2010, 5:55 PM
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cchas wrote: edge wrote: justroberto wrote: caughtinside wrote: Out west 5.5 doesn't even exist. Sure it does. It's just called 5.8. Well, if we are going to bring grades into this, then I will say that I grew up in NH, and cut my teeth on NH 5.9+'s. This is localese for full on 5.10+. My first trip to the Valley, my first route was the West Face of Rixon's, and thought it was a stroll. Literally, I thought it was a 5.8. Until we went to rap off and the rope got hung up twice... and I always laugh at posts like this. When I moved from the East I was climbing 5.10's and a few .11's at the Gunks and had just spent 2 yrs doing R/X rated climbs there and climbed extensively on the East Coast. When I moved to San Francisco I spent my first year getting my #ss handed to me on Yosemite and Tuolumne 5.9's.
Fair enough, it seems like a style issue?
The Gunks are a totally different beast than anything I know in NH. I got spanked the first time I went to the Trapps, but really they were a great stepping stone.
I still stand by my assertion that if you can climb .9+ on Cathedral and have experience on the slabs of Whitehorse, then nothing of the same grade in Yosemite or Tuolumne can compare.
Again, my opinion. This was my observation and I respect differences of opinion.
Cheers.
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swoopee
May 28, 2010, 6:39 PM
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justroberto wrote: caughtinside wrote: Out west 5.5 doesn't even exist. Sure it does. It's just called 5.8.
Ouch. 
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caughtinside
May 28, 2010, 8:06 PM
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swoopee wrote: justroberto wrote: caughtinside wrote: Out west 5.5 doesn't even exist. Sure it does. It's just called 5.8. Ouch.
Not really. A guy who lives in texas calling west coast 5.8s 5.5s isn't really saying much. I've been to texas and seen their 'climbing.' Not impressed.
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kachoong
May 28, 2010, 8:17 PM
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wallwombat wrote: Arapiles.
Ding Ding!!!!
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edge
May 28, 2010, 8:21 PM
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kachoong wrote: wallwombat wrote: Arapiles. Ding Ding!!!!
Not fair...
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justroberto
May 28, 2010, 11:28 PM
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caughtinside wrote: swoopee wrote: justroberto wrote: caughtinside wrote: Out west 5.5 doesn't even exist. Sure it does. It's just called 5.8. Ouch. Not really. A guy who lives in texas calling west coast 5.8s 5.5s isn't really saying much. I've been to texas and seen their 'climbing.' Not impressed.
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curt
May 31, 2010, 5:33 AM
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cracklover wrote: edge wrote: So, I have climbed a few areas over a few years, but am curious. What do you consider the best single crag for these grades? Please don't answer with an area like "Yosemite," unless you want to be more specific and say "the Cookie." Then you will be wrong, in my opinion, but I would still want to hear from you. For 5.10, I'd have to say the Trapps in the Gunks...
I'll second that, unless of course, I'm GU'd.
Curt
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guangzhou
May 31, 2010, 6:18 AM
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When I read questions like this, I thank my lucky stars that I am not and never have been limited to a single crag or climbing area. Some of my favorite have already been mentioned.
I am currently shopping for the perfect house location. A place where I can retire and climb year-round. Chattanooga area looks like it will be the best place. Climbing, cost of living, and friendly people.
In no particular order:
I lived in TN a few years, the states best climbing is at T-wall, but Whiteside and the North Side of Looking Glass were really good too. (T-wall is to hot in summer)
I had a condo near North Conway, Cathedral kept me busy for a couple of summer. I never got bored there, but the winter is cold at best.
I live in Yosemite for a year after High school. You can climb year-round but the place closes in on you after a while.
I almost bought a house near Paradise Forks a couple years ago. A small climbing area that has excellent single pitch climbing. I think it would get boring to climb there exclusively.
I like the Needles, but I would die at a much younger age if I lived there. Run outs are long, and winter is even longer.
Colorado has Lumpy Ridge, spectacular climbing with a reasonable winter, but the climbing season for pure rock is still pretty short.
I plan on spending most of this summer climbing Lovers' Leap in Tahoe. I'll be house shopping too. I like the leap, a nice mix of routes. But winter is to cold to climb.
In short, they is no perfect place to climb exclusively year-round. Guess I am lucky, I climb overseas around Asia, New Zealand, and Australia during the the American Winter and spend summer climbing in the USA or Europe. The variety of areas keeps me from getting bored, sort of like sport and climbing trad climbing keeping me from getting burned out.
E
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curt
May 31, 2010, 6:50 AM
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bandycoot wrote: edge wrote: bandycoot wrote: edge wrote: Not really a single crag, but thanks for playing. I love it there too. Pick almost any of the faces there and it meets your criteria. Slab/knobs/corners/aretes/cracks/face in the 5.10-5.12 range. I think I just drooled on my keyboard a little..... Fair enough, but do any one of those single faces match up to the variety of previously mentioned areas? Even if they don't, as soon as I see the word "best" in reference to a climbing area I twitch compusively and MUST reply "Needles". Plus they're pretty......... Josh
You guys should stop confusing the real Needles with that other place in California. 
Curt
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healyje
May 31, 2010, 7:15 AM
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rangerrob wrote: Seriously though, four crags keep popping up. The Trapps, Lower Index, Black Velvet Canyon, and Cathedral. so it comes down to that.
Wow, love those minus LTW which I haven't been, but if it came down to it I'd probably spend my time on Eldorado's Bastille and Redgarden Wall first.
P.S. Marco Fedrizzi on 'The Wizard', our Crow Hill FA from the two years in the mid-80s I lived in NH.
(This post was edited by healyje on May 31, 2010, 9:12 AM)
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granite_grrl
May 31, 2010, 1:54 PM
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edge wrote: chadnsc wrote: I would say Devils Tower, but then again I'm limited by my geographic location.  DT is awesome, but little variety.
Otherwise I would consider a wall the NRG, which I think really picks up in the 5.10 range. I'm not that familiar with the New though, so I can't narrow it down to one wall.
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kappydane
May 31, 2010, 1:58 PM
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I consider cragging to be quick access with a lot of routes close together. So I propose Horseshoe Canyon Ranch in Arkansas. Probably the most routes available in the smallest physical area. You can walk from one side of the ranch to the other in about 30 minutes while most approaches to single areas only takes about 10 or 15 minutes.
34 5.7
34 5.8
46 5.9
69 5.10
47 5.11
40 5.12
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camhead
May 31, 2010, 2:03 PM
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kappydane wrote: I consider cragging to be quick access with a lot of routes close together. So I propose Horseshoe Canyon Ranch in Arkansas. Probably the most routes available in the smallest physical area. You can walk from one side of the ranch to the other in about 30 minutes while most approaches to single areas only takes about 10 or 15 minutes. 34 5.7 34 5.8 46 5.9 69 5.10 47 5.11 40 5.12
The original poster was looking specifically for trad climbs. Your list for HCR, which granted is an awesome place, would really be a LOT smaller if you were to narrow it down just to trad climbs.
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