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irregularpanda


May 31, 2010, 6:06 PM
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Climbing all 50 classics
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There's a husband and wife trying to climb all 50 classics in north america.

This sounds like an inspiring project, and the videos that have been done (so far) are pretty good. It kinda makes me wish I had more ice climbing experience, so I could take this on too.

http://www.smileysproject.com/50/Videos.html

Funny, the photo of Mt. Stuart really doesn't do it any justice.


guangzhou


May 31, 2010, 7:25 PM
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Re: [irregularpanda] Climbing all 50 classics [In reply to]
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Interesting goal. Good luck to them.

I've done quite few of them, some are still on my list, others I'm not at all interested in.

Nice to see people have climbing goals and go after them.


csproul


Jun 1, 2010, 5:37 AM
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Re: [irregularpanda] Climbing all 50 classics [In reply to]
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Check out Gary and Lynn Clarke. The Los Alamos mountaineers site has a list of "classic climbs in North America", which I think was an offshoot of the 50 classics. It looks as if Lynn and Gary have climbed most of these routes too. Awesome site for beta and inspiration.
http://lamountaineers.org/...other/misc/index.htm


(This post was edited by csproul on Jun 1, 2010, 6:44 AM)


dynosore


Jun 1, 2010, 5:52 AM
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Re: [irregularpanda] Climbing all 50 classics [In reply to]
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irregularpanda wrote:
There's a husband and wife trying to climb all 50 classics in north america.

This sounds like an inspiring project, and the videos that have been done (so far) are pretty good. It kinda makes me wish I had more ice climbing experience, so I could take this on too.

http://www.smileysproject.com/50/Videos.html

Funny, the photo of Mt. Stuart really doesn't do it any justice.

Devil's Thumb, E Ridge is a tall order. Easily the most difficult climb on the list. I aspire to do it someday with my son when he's older.


kaizen


Jun 1, 2010, 6:32 AM
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Re: [dynosore] Climbing all 50 classics [In reply to]
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I wouldn't hold my breathe on this. Hummingbird Ridge has never seen a repeat, and that includes attempts from teams far more skilled and experienced than the Smiley's appear to be.

EDIT for clarity.


(This post was edited by kaizen on Jun 1, 2010, 6:34 AM)


irregularpanda


Jun 1, 2010, 9:25 AM
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kaizen wrote:
I wouldn't hold my breathe on this. Hummingbird Ridge has never seen a repeat, and that includes attempts from teams far more skilled and experienced than the Smiley's appear to be.

EDIT for clarity.

Awesome. I'm sure huntington would be a huge challenge too, I've heard it's generally loose, steep, dangerous, with frequent avalanches.

I'm into this sort of thing, except for most of the alaskan routes.


irregularpanda


Jun 1, 2010, 9:26 AM
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dynosore wrote:
irregularpanda wrote:
There's a husband and wife trying to climb all 50 classics in north america.

This sounds like an inspiring project, and the videos that have been done (so far) are pretty good. It kinda makes me wish I had more ice climbing experience, so I could take this on too.

http://www.smileysproject.com/50/Videos.html

Funny, the photo of Mt. Stuart really doesn't do it any justice.

Devil's Thumb, E Ridge is a tall order. Easily the most difficult climb on the list. I aspire to do it someday with my son when he's older.

Cool. I don't know much about devil's tower. I'd like to go there someday.


dynosore


Jun 1, 2010, 9:31 AM
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irregularpanda wrote:
dynosore wrote:
irregularpanda wrote:
There's a husband and wife trying to climb all 50 classics in north america.

This sounds like an inspiring project, and the videos that have been done (so far) are pretty good. It kinda makes me wish I had more ice climbing experience, so I could take this on too.

http://www.smileysproject.com/50/Videos.html

Funny, the photo of Mt. Stuart really doesn't do it any justice.

Devil's Thumb, E Ridge is a tall order. Easily the most difficult climb on the list. I aspire to do it someday with my son when he's older.

Cool. I don't know much about devil's tower. I'd like to go there someday.

Devils Thumb, not tower. Be prepared to wait a long time for the weather!


tomtom


Jun 1, 2010, 9:58 AM
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irregularpanda wrote:
Funny, the photo of Mt. Stuart really doesn't do it any justice.
Their picture is of the south face of Mt Stuart. The north ridge is on the other side of the mountain.


irregularpanda


Jun 1, 2010, 10:03 AM
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tomtom wrote:
irregularpanda wrote:
Funny, the photo of Mt. Stuart really doesn't do it any justice.
Their picture is of the south face of Mt Stuart. The north ridge is on the other side of the mountain.

Good catch. I love that climb. The complete N ridge is much better than the recommended route.


guangzhou


Jun 1, 2010, 5:48 PM
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50 Classic climbs, the route at the top of my must do list.


I would go out of my way to climb this, the rest, I'd climb them if I was in the area. Not much into mountaineering, so I would focus on the pure rock routes.


flamer


Jun 4, 2010, 3:06 PM
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The true 50 classics are no longer possible.

The Northcutt/Carter route, on Halletts in Rocky Mtn. National park, FELL OFF the face about 10 years ago.
Yes you heard it right. The first 3 pitchs are literally laying in a pile at the base.

Seems like alot of folks do the Culp/Bossier instead.

josh


Couloirman


Jun 16, 2010, 6:02 PM
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If anyone has a copy of the book they want to get rid of shoot me a PM and Ill buy it off you.


clews


Jun 18, 2010, 1:34 PM
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you can find it online

I have a pdf of it on my computer... although I can't remember where I got it


cchas


Jul 1, 2010, 12:48 PM
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Re: [dynosore] Climbing all 50 classics [In reply to]
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and you are sort of forgetting a few routes, like Hummingbird on Logan, Middle Triple,....

The Fifty Classic Climbs just don't inspire me. A lot of them are chossy or ok. When you compare Middle Cathedral to the Rostrum or Astroman, no comparision.


tradmanclimbs


Jul 2, 2010, 5:23 AM
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Re: [cchas] Climbing all 50 classics [In reply to]
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Climbing all 50 classics would take a skill set that few climbers these days posses. So many folks specialize in one aspect of climbing and do not have the rounded skill set to be solid at Aid, Alpine and free climbing. additionaly you have to be stealth to snag Shiprock....

It would be an impressive accomplishment INMOP


cchas


Jul 3, 2010, 9:04 PM
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tradmanclimbs wrote:
Climbing all 50 classics would take a skill set that few climbers these days posses. So many folks specialize in one aspect of climbing and do not have the rounded skill set to be solid at Aid, Alpine and free climbing. additionaly you have to be stealth to snag Shiprock....

It would be an impressive accomplishment INMOP

Few?????? You gotta get out and meet climbers more often. I know a lot that after doing a 5.13 finger crack, can crank out off widths and then do pretty hard ice climbs and can slog mountains with the best of them. Their out their,.... except you don't see them in the rags much, and you definately don't hear about them.....


acorneau


Jul 4, 2010, 6:29 AM
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cchas wrote:
Few?????? You gotta get out and meet climbers more often. I know a lot that after doing a 5.13 finger crack, can crank out off widths and then do pretty hard ice climbs and can slog mountains with the best of them. Their out their,.... except you don't see them in the rags much, and you definately don't hear about them.....


"They're out there"


Sorry for going all "grammer police" but that just bugs me to no end.
Wink


rangerrob


Jul 4, 2010, 9:27 AM
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Chas is right, there are some badass peoplel out there slaying it up old school, then going to work during the week. No magazines, no endorsements, just a love of adventure and exploration. These are my favorite climbers.

That being said..I wish BD would get back to me about attempt to climbe High E 50 times on one day. I want some sponsorship!!


tradmanclimbs


Jul 7, 2010, 5:26 AM
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It's still and pretty wide range skill set. and many who are solid ice and rock climbers are not aid climbers. Many aid climbers have no intrest in hard free climbing and its even harder (at my age) to find someone with healty knees to slog up all those mountains ;) It would be an amazeing accomplishment and cost a considerable ammount of $$$

I have dreams about Lotus Flower tower ocasionaly...


dynosore


Jul 7, 2010, 5:33 AM
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Re: [cchas] Climbing all 50 classics [In reply to]
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cchas wrote:
tradmanclimbs wrote:
Climbing all 50 classics would take a skill set that few climbers these days posses. So many folks specialize in one aspect of climbing and do not have the rounded skill set to be solid at Aid, Alpine and free climbing. additionaly you have to be stealth to snag Shiprock....

It would be an impressive accomplishment INMOP

Few?????? You gotta get out and meet climbers more often. I know a lot that after doing a 5.13 finger crack, can crank out off widths and then do pretty hard ice climbs and can slog mountains with the best of them. Their out their,.... except you don't see them in the rags much, and you definately don't hear about them.....

I think you underestimate or are unfamiliar with how hard climbs like the Hummingbird Ridge are. I've climbed some wimpy Alaskan routes, and it's an entirely different world up there.


(This post was edited by dynosore on Jul 7, 2010, 5:34 AM)


dynosore


Jul 7, 2010, 5:35 AM
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acorneau wrote:
cchas wrote:
Few?????? You gotta get out and meet climbers more often. I know a lot that after doing a 5.13 finger crack, can crank out off widths and then do pretty hard ice climbs and can slog mountains with the best of them. Their out their,.... except you don't see them in the rags much, and you definately don't hear about them.....

"They're out there"


Sorry for going all "grammer police" but that just bugs me to no end.
Wink

"definately"! Laugh


(This post was edited by dynosore on Jul 7, 2010, 5:35 AM)


cchas


Jul 7, 2010, 6:33 AM
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I understand Hummingbird Ridge. If you noticed in posts previously I said that its a bad M#$F#$%er since its killed quite a few individuals. Middle Triple was also quite a feat in the day it was done since its been done so rarely since then.

All I am saying is that if you think that todays climbers are a bunch of specialist prima dona's then you don't know todays climbers. Look at Josh Wharton, he'll go climb sport at Rifle, crank out hard routes in the Black Canyon, ice climb M9, and then go put up hard FA's in Pakistan. And he may be good but there is a good contingent of young climbers in hot pursuit or surpassing him, such as Kennedy, Stanhope, Haley. I'm just saying, give these guys credit.

I will and have, given the guys of yesterday credit (doing hard-ass routes with the heavy gear they had, without Gore-Tex, with Double Leather Boots (My first pair, and man were they heavy). They were hard-asses. But the people on the forefront today are also, even though they get no press in the climbing rags.


(This post was edited by cchas on Jul 7, 2010, 6:42 AM)


tradmanclimbs


Jul 7, 2010, 6:57 AM
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I don't read the climbing rags. I will stick to my guns on this one. It would be a damn rare find to hook up with someone who could do all these climbs. It would be an amazeing accomplishment. It would also involve a lot of travel and missed work!I wouldn't be anal about exactly which climb you do as long as its of simeler or harder dificulty on the same formation. For instance I did not do Durrance crack but did a 5.9 to the summit of Devils so it counts as a tic for me...


builttospill


Jul 7, 2010, 7:53 PM
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Seems to me the biggest obstacle is the hard alpine stuff up in Alaska. I know enough guys that can climb 5.10 or 5.11 and aid A3, but I don't know anyone personally that could climb all the Alaskan stuff. The group of people who can climb the Nose is pretty big. The group of people who can climb Middle Triple is pretty small.

There are definitely guys who can do all of them. Some of them have been named in this thread, and there are others. I think the biggest reason those guys haven't is lack of interest in many of the objectives. I doubt fellas like Wharton and Haley are interested in climbing the W ridge of Forbidden Peak or Liberty Ridge on Rainier.....with unlimited time maybe they would, but no one has unlimited climbing time, unfortunately.

I suspect that and lack of finances are the biggest reasons no one has done it yet, along with the aforementioned small group of people capable of all the big Alaskan climbs.

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