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pplachta
Jun 7, 2010, 9:34 AM
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I was wondering about clean aid on Wall of the Worlds (Calaveras Dome) -- at least the 1st 2 pitches should be very possible since they are all crack. I am not sure about the 3rd (crux) traverse pitch under the roof.
Can anyone advise?
Thanks!!
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dingus
Jun 7, 2010, 10:05 AM
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Yes you could aid the first 5 (4 if the first 2 pitches strung together). Above that it goes to runnout face climbing.
I would suggest yielding to free climbers if the route is busy. Its always been a free climb so far as I know, from the FA onward.
DMT
(This post was edited by dingus on Jun 7, 2010, 10:06 AM)
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pplachta
Jun 8, 2010, 5:08 AM
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Thanks a lot. I will definitely be polite, and will go during the week anyway, not expecting it to be busy (this is why I would rather try this here then, say, in Yosemite :) ).
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dingus
Jun 8, 2010, 5:14 AM
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I haven't done that route in a long time. I do know that EC Joe rebolted the upper pitches if you fancy a go at them.
Yep that canyon is off the beaten path.
DMT
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salamanizer
Jun 8, 2010, 5:18 AM
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You could certainly aid "War of the Walls" which is it's origional name given by Jay Smith. It was mis quoted somewhere along the line and stuck.
Anyway, there are better options at Cal Domes for clean aid. The first three pitches of Banzai are good. Starting up Rastaman Vibrations to the Laughing Hyena arch would be a really cool aid line. War of the Walls is just not steep enough for fun aid. Would be more of a pain in the ass than anything, and you'd need many cams from 1" to 1.5"... that's #.75's and #1 BD camalots.
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norushnomore
Jun 8, 2010, 8:02 AM
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salamanizer wrote: You could certainly aid "War of the Walls" which is it's origional name given by Jay Smith. It was mis quoted somewhere along the line and stuck. Anyway, there are better options at Cal Domes for clean aid. The first three pitches of Banzai are good. Starting up Rastaman Vibrations to the Laughing Hyena arch would be a really cool aid line. War of the Walls is just not steep enough for fun aid. Would be more of a pain in the ass than anything, and you'd need many cams from 1" to 1.5"... that's #.75's and #1 BD camalots.
Second that, kind of pointless. very nice free climb though, upper pitches are fun too, just a bit run out.
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pplachta
Jun 8, 2010, 11:01 AM
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thanks for the good advice! any idea what kind of gear Bonzai requires?
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salamanizer
Jun 8, 2010, 2:58 PM
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Yeah, Banzai requires everything from .4" (black Alien size) to about 2.5". Bring doubles of everything. I set of nuts and a set of rp's or micro nuts like DMM Peanuts... offsets would be more usefull. The thing is mostly C1 with a few short areas of maybe C2. The old guide is obsolite as the thing has been retrobolted to death for free climbing. So the crux pitch which used to ring in at about A3+ is now mostly a bolt ladder with a few placements here and there. There is also some trivial manditory free climbing if going past pitch 3 but it's 5.7 and easier.
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pplachta
Jun 8, 2010, 8:26 PM
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thanks again!
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