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raerae
Jun 7, 2010, 2:28 PM
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Has anyone ever thought about updating the bolts on Barbeque the Pope? Bolts 2 and 3 are scary - potential ground fall. Can just anybody go put more bolts up?... or how does that work at Smith?
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jbrown2
Jun 7, 2010, 3:21 PM
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I think we can safely say. . . Please do not touch.
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irregularpanda
Jun 7, 2010, 3:40 PM
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raerae wrote: Has anyone ever thought about updating the bolts on Barbeque the Pope? Bolts 2 and 3 are scary - potential ground fall. Can just anybody go put more bolts up?... or how does that work at Smith?
It's the trend at smith, I've even heard it called the "smith clip". Don't touch it.
Grow a pair of balls or buy a stick clip.
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patmay81
Jun 7, 2010, 3:51 PM
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yeah, rebolting is not allowed. I'd say if a route has rusty 1/4" bolts (not the case w/ bbq the pope), then they can be replaced, but never relocated/added.
climbing ethics usually run the route of "do it the way the first party did it or don't do it at all". Its right up there with chipping and gluing.
A lot of run out routes at smith take pro in some places. I dont know about bbqtp, its been way too long since ive been on it; but routes like revelations (with a 30'+ first bolt) has a great slot for a nut 15' up.
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ryanb
Jun 7, 2010, 4:49 PM
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patmay81 wrote: Its right up there with chipping and gluing.
I agree with you but chipping and gluing aren't exactly unheard of at smith...
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jomagam
Jun 7, 2010, 5:08 PM
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How can you have a groundfall from the second or even the third bolt if the first is that freakin' high ? I fell a few times right before the second and didn't come anywhere near to hitting the ground.
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patmay81
Jun 7, 2010, 9:20 PM
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yeah, i looked at some photos and remember the same thing. The bolts seem far apart, but not ground fall far. they are high enough to take a big fall.
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bigo
Jun 7, 2010, 11:28 PM
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I have caught someone who fell at the third bolt, and it is a big fall that gets you near the ground. If you fell clipping, ground fall is a real possibility. So, I wouldn't recommend falling while clipping :).
As to the OP, adding bolts or moving them significantly would not be tolerated on that climb by the locals. I would suggest climbing one of the many other well protected Smith climbs and come back to BBQtheP when you are stronger in mind and body.
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irregularpanda
Jun 7, 2010, 11:31 PM
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jomagam wrote: How can you have a groundfall from the second or even the third bolt if the first is that freakin' high ? I fell a few times right before the second and didn't come anywhere near to hitting the ground.
You can't unless you're a total fucktard. Make the first clip, clip the second as if you are intelligent. You'll be fine.
It's a smith clip. That's why every time you go to smith you either see amazing climbers pulling hard, or idiots with stick clips, stick clipping as they go.
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raerae
Jun 8, 2010, 2:18 AM
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Thanks for the replies everyone. They were actually much less moronic than I expected for this site. :-)
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keithspernak
Jun 8, 2010, 3:49 AM
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Hey Raychel, it's Keith. I remember the first time I lead bbq. Didn't feel like it was ground fall after making the first clip. Did it again last fall and it still felt runout but safe after the first clip. Just make sure your belay is on it. There is another .10b on the Red Wall called Lets Face It, I believe this one has ground fall potential clipping the second bolt. The first bolt is not nearly as high up as bbq, but I felt as if a decking were to take place while clipping the second bolt you might need some crutches to get home. As with bbq, Lets Face It is classic and should not be missed.
How long are you in Bend? Right now I am in Montana working for a week. I'll be back around the 16th. Want to climb?
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raerae
Jun 8, 2010, 5:13 AM
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In reply to: Hey Keith. I'm there. I'll basically be there every Friday, Saturday, Sunday this summer other than July 4th weekend when I'll be in the Gunks! Yeah, that lead freaks me out for some reason. I'll do it one of these days though.
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phillygoat
Jun 8, 2010, 5:14 AM
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patmay81 wrote: yeah, rebolting is not allowed. I'd say if a route has rusty 1/4" bolts (not the case w/ bbq the pope), then they can be replaced,
That's what rebolting is. You're thinking of retrobolting.
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guangzhou
Jun 8, 2010, 5:55 AM
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Smith does have some old school sport routes. My first rip there was in the 80's when sport climbing was just finding it's foothold in America, everything felt really over bolted. I was there three years ago, the bolts didn't feel as close, but everything still felt very safe.
over the years, the distance between bolts on sport routes have shortened for sure.
BBQ the Pope, an excellent route.
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jbone
Jun 8, 2010, 7:56 AM
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Oh man, stirring up some great memories there. I haven't been on that since the day I pointed it in 96.' Truly one of the greatest lines in the states.
If you change the bolt placements you change the line. Please don't disrespect the thousands who celebrate this line with such thoughts.
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cycle1667
Jul 20, 2010, 12:32 AM
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My dad climbed @ smith back in the 50's when he was a med student. I was out there in 99, beautiful.
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kanyeahalaska
Jan 10, 2014, 5:32 AM
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I fell while clipping at the third bolt on this route.. Scary! Probably was about a 30 ft fall ending at about 6 ft. from the ground. So yeah just to reiterate anyone that attempts BBQ the pope don't fall at the 3rd bolt!
And to provide my opinion on this topic I don't think there should be additional bolts, the danger factor kind of comes with the territory anyway right?
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